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LSU fans wrote the book on tailgating and will prove it
on Sugar Bowl Sunday
The Times-Picayune, New Orleans, LA
Thursday January 01, 2004
By Dale Curry
Food editor
“Tiger fans are widely known as the folks who perfected tailgating, according
to
Ron McDaniel, and this weekend, he and many others will try to prove it.
The Baton Rouge business owner and LSU graduate will lead his 65-member
HATT
Tailgating to a parking lot at Poydras and South Rampart streets,
where
they
will cook
crawfish étouffée as the main event, alongside
barbecue,
50 gallons
of
jambalaya, 30
quarts of chili and 50
quarts of gumbo.
'We expect to feed between 2,000 and 3,000 at this party," he said. "That's
the
basis of Tiger tailgating -- to welcome anyone in if they're a Tiger. We
do
feed
a lot of opposing fans as well.'
Most of McDaniel's group has tickets to the game, but the party starts early
on
that morning. HATT has teamed up with two other tailgating groups, the
Peaux
Boys from Baton Rouge and the Tailgating Tigers from the Bestbank
(West Bank). A
zydeco band will play, a DJ will entertain and satellite TV
will
be set up for
those who don't have tickets.
Another unofficial rule of Tiger tailgating, says McDaniel, is that everything
must be cooked on site, from the chopping of the onions to the frying of the
turkeys.
"We'll have plenty of food, lots of music and lots of beer," said the designated
head chef, Chris Simon of Cecelia near Breaux Bridge. To make sure there's
enough, Copeland's restaurant will add even more food to the spread.
Tailgating groups are setting up all over, particularly at parking lots in the
Central Business District. Some have rented out restaurants.
George Boudreaux, an LSU alum who lives in Covington, will join a group
of
several hundred people in 10 motor homes and half a dozen tents.
'We've rented a whole parking lot on St. Charles Avenue between Girard and
Julia,' he said. 'We'll probably
deep fry
turkeys and make
grits and grillades. There're so many parties to go to, we don't know who
will be at what.'
LSU is equaled only by Penn State when it comes to tailgating, according to
Joe Cahn, the self-proclaimed 'commissioner of tailgating.'
On the road for eight years at college and pro games all over the country,
the
New Orleanian says the difference here is 'the passion of the LSU fans.'
'What makes LSU (tailgating) special is two things:
We in Louisiana love to party, and we are very serious about our food.'
While tailgaters elsewhere may cook for 10 to 20 people, LSU groups cook for
25
to 50 and more. In Louisiana, he said, we have the equipment others don't
have
such as the big pots for
boiling crawfish.
Cahn, who has already traveled 24,251 miles in his motor coach this year, will
cook jambalaya in Zephyr Field on Airline Drive where RVs and camper trailers
can rent spaces for two to four days from $75 to $150. Tailgaters are invited to
bring their generators and cookers and can come and go in their cars and be
provided with restrooms.
Cahn says it will be 'a battle of the parking lot between the grilling and
barbecue
of Oklahoma to the gumbos and
jambalaya of south Louisiana.'
...Tailgating is often a family affair as it is with Jules Lagarde of Covington,
a
1976 LSU graduate who now has two daughters and five nieces and
nephews at
LSU and another daughter going next year. His wife, Roxanne,
is, of course, an
LSU graduate.
At regular games, Lagarde's brother, Frank Lagarde of Metairie, rolls his truck
and trailer into Tiger Stadium parking lot on Friday night and
fries fish and
cooks ribs,
hamburgers and
sausage
through Saturday.
"He never goes to the game. He takes a nap during the game so he can cook after
the game," Lagarde said. For Sugar Bowl, Frank Lagarde has invited family
and
friends to tailgate in a vacant lot near his home in Metairie, where he'll be
cooking his regular fare of
grilled
shrimp, chicken, sausage and pasta dishes.
Their friend, Jeff Schoen, a Covington lawyer, puts his own spin on tailgating
with an old silver Lincoln Continental that he calls the Gray Ghost and parks
in
the shadow of Tiger Stadium for all LSU games.
'It's the tailgating mobile. Its only job in life now is to go to LSU games at
home
and away,' he said. The telling sign of the ghost is its crunched-in top,
which got
that way from a victory dance called 'the rooster' that Schoen does
on
top of it
every time LSU wins.
Will the Gray Ghost be at the Sugar Bowl?
'Is the pope Catholic?' responds Schoen.
It will be parked this weekend in front of the Marriott Hotel on Canal Street,
where Schoen's specialty, the Crown Royal Supreme, will be the dominant
menu
item served to hundreds.
A major contributor to the art of tailgating, the Tiger Roar organization this
year will begin their bash by renting out the Ernst Cafe in the Central Business
District for a party beginning Saturday night. The four-time winner of the World
Tailgating Championship, the group's Krewe of Ragoo goes by this slogan: 'We
do
more tailgating before 10 a.m. than most people do all day.' "
Joe's Jambalaya
12 to 15
servings
"This is my favorite recipe because you can put just about anything in it," says
Joe Cahn, widely called the Commish. "If it walks, crawls, swims or flies, it
can
be thrown into jambalaya. Everything goes into one pot so cleanup's a
breeze."
1 1/2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts,
cut into 1 inch
pieces
Salt and ground black pepper
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 1/2 pounds sausage cut in 1/4-inch slices
4 cups chopped onions
2 cups chopped celery
2 cups chopped green bell pepper
1 tablespoon minced garlic
5 cups chicken stock or water
flavored with chicken bouillon
2 tablespoons seasoning salt
2 tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet (browning agent)
4 cups long grain rice
2 cups chopped green onions
Season chicken with salt and pepper. Brown in hot oil in an
eight-quart
Dutch oven or stockpot over medium-high heat. Add sausage; cook for
5
to 7 minutes. Remove chicken and sausage from pan; set aside. Add
the onions, celery, green peppers and garlic; cook, stirring for 7 to 10
minutes
or until vegetables begin to wilt. Stir in chicken stock, reserved
chicken and
sausage, seasoning salt and Kitchen Bouquet. Bring to a
boil.
Add rice and
return to a boil. Cover and reduce heat to simmer.
Cook 10
minutes; remove cover
and quickly turn the rice from top to
bottom completely. Replace cover and cook 15
to 20 minutes or until
liquid is absorbed and rice is tender. Stir in green
onions.
For brown jambalaya, add one heaping tablespoon brown sugar to hot
oil
and
caramelize, or make a roux, or use Kitchen Bouquet.
For red jambalaya, add
approximately one-fourth cup paprika or use
one-half stock and one-half tomato
juice or V-8 for your liquid. For
seafood jambalaya, add cooked seafood when
rice is cooked.
If using an electric stove, reduce cooking time by 3 to 4 minutes.
Four tips:
♦ Use one cup of rice for every two cups of vegetables (onion,
celery,
bell pepper).
♦
Use 1 /14 cups of liquid for every one cup of uncooked rice.
♦
One cup
of uncooked rice will make three cups of cooked
rice (season accordingly).
♦
Cook
jambalaya for a total of 25 to 30 minutes, stirring well
after 10 minutes.
Also from Cahn:
Grilled Garlic Toast
1/2 pound butter
1/2 pound margarine
1 cup parsley, chopped
8 to 12 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup Romano cheese (optional)
Soften butter and margarine to room temperature. Mix and fold in
parsley, garlic and cheese. Spread on long loaf of French bread cut
in thick
slices. Place on hot grill until toasted.
Sooners are not big on tailgating, but some
cooks
are bringing
down their rigs from Oklahoma
Thursday
January 01, 2004
"Eddie Hartwick doesn't have a ticket yet, but he's loading up his Ford Excur-
sion, which is outfitted with a kitchen sink and refrigerator, and driving
it
from Oklahoma into Sugar Bowl city this weekend.
Hartwick cooks for the RUF/NEKS, which he says is the oldest male spirit club
in
the United States, having been established in 1915 to cheer on the Sooners.
The RUF/NEKS work up an appetite alongside the playing field where they fire
blanks
from 12-gauge shotguns whenever their team scores and are the keepers
of Boomer,
Sooner and Schooner, the mascot ponies and covered wagon that
run around the
field for touchdowns and victories.
Hartwick, a chef, caterer and OU graduate, feeds the club and all hungry souls
who pass his traveling kitchen. Once he finds a spot, he will roll out his
cooking
rig and begin cooking pork butts, chickens and who knows what else.
'I'll feed anybody, even LSU fans,' he said. That includes the 28 RUF/NEKS
who
are students and, of course, have entry to the sidelines. 'We'll communicate
by
cell phone,' he said, so they'll know his location.
Although tailgating is not a major pastime at OU, some do it, says Hartwick,
and
the popular items are
brats (bratwurst), knockwurst and hot links, served on
hot dog or hoagie
buns. Also, grilled meats such as
ribs,
chili
and potato salad.
He has a specialty called grillaroni, which is a sausage
similar to pepperoni
served on a hoagie bun.
Louisiana products enter into Harwick's cooking in a big way. His grillaroni is
served with four kinds of mustard, Tabasco and Louisiana Gold. And one of the
dishes he will likely make this weekend is a jambalaya recipe from New Orleans
chef
Paul Prudhomme.
In general, Oklahoma food is a far cry from Louisiana's. So are the drinking
practices. The official state meal is
chicken-fried steak,
mashed potatoes and
green beans, none of which you'd expect to see at a tailgating party.
And
drinking laws are stricter, enforcing a more conservative atmosphere at
sporting
events and parties in general. Other popular favorites in the Deep
South-style
cooking of Oklahoma are fried okra, squash,
cornbread,
barbecued
pork,
biscuits,
sausage and gravy,
grits,
corn,
black-eyed peas and
pecan pie.
A typical football party for a Sooners game would include chips and
dip,
fried
chicken and grilled meat such as burgers,
ribs or
steaks, said Aesha Rasheed, a
recent OU graduate and staff writer for The Times-Picayune. Rather than
tailgating, 'it's more of a sports bar and private party kind of place.'
Joe Cahn of New Orleans, who is under contract with CocaCola to observe
tailgating throughout the country as the 'new community social,' says he
was
with the Sooners last year at the Rose Bowl and that they 'brought quite
a
contingent and had a big party. They were very good tailgaters.' He said
they
served the basic steak, meat, beef and Midwestern party fare.
Kelly Collyar, an OU alumnus who lives in Norman, Okla., has no tickets yet
but
is coming to the Sugar Bowl, and will definitely tailgate.
'It'll be a family affair,' said the member of the Sooner Club who has relatives
who have played OU football. He's coming in a pickup truck with a couple of
propane grills, and 15 to 20 of his friends are driving other vehicles. 'We'll
be
there Friday through Monday and want to do a lot of things in New Orleans
like go to Commander's Palace. Some are driving SUVs and we'll park together.
We
don't know where . . . somewhere near the Superdome.'
The fare will be hamburgers, hot dogs,
barbecue,
Polish sausage, sauerkraut --
'a lot of meat. We'll have lots of food. Some people drink; some don't. We'll
have children there. It will absolutely be a family affair.'
A Sooner, for those who don't know, as well as a Boomer, mentioned in the
fight
song, were settlers in the Land Run of 1889. A schooner is the covered
wagon
that transported the pioneers.
Like LSU tailgaters, OU fans looking for a place to cook will have to find
one
outside the Superdome. No fires are allowed in the parking lots, but
Dome
spokesman Bill Curl said people who want to eat standing around their
cars will
be allowed to as long as they don't light fires, take up more than one
space or
disturb anyone.
Following are two of Hartwick's best tailgating recipes:"
Oklahoma Pulled Pork
To serve a tailgating crowd
24 pounds pork butt
2 pounds Don's Butt Rub (see recipe below or use
other dry seasoning
such as Creole-style)
1 gallon Head Country BBQ sauce
(or other barbecue sauce)
12 ice cold premium beers
Wash the pork butts and pat dry. Rub the butts generously with
Don's
Butt Rub a minimum of 24 hours before cooking. On the day of the
game,
skewer the butts on a rotisserie and allow them to cook for at least
five
hours
on a charcoal grill. Cook them slow and low, the only way to
ensure tenderness.
This is where the beer comes in. You have to have
something
to do for five
hours, so start drinking. When you remove the
butts, place
them in a pan big
enough to pull meat apart. After pulling
apart, add
barbecue sauce and one beer
and mix well. Place the pan of
meat back
on the grill and start simmering. Keep
the meat simmering
until it's time
to eat. If it gets dry, add another beer.
Serve on onion
buns with your
favorite
potato salad or chips and, of course,
cold beer.
Don's Butt Rub
2 pounds brown sugar
1 cup granulated garlic
1 cup Lawry's seasoning salt
1 cup black pepper
1/2 cup kosher salt
1 cup paprika
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
Mix all together and store in an airtight container.
Grillaroni is a sausage sold in Oklahoma similar to pepperoni.
Serves 1
1 Grillaroni
1 ounce pizza sauce
Pan spray
1 fresh hoagie bun
2 ounces shredded mozzarella
Grill the Grillaroni on a charcoal grill. Heat the pizza sauce in
a pan on the grill. Spray the inside of the hoagie with the pan spray and place
on the grill
to toast. After you've toasted the hoagie, load the Grillaroni on the bun and
top with hot pizza sauce and mozzarella cheese. Eat while hot and serve
with a medium chianti.
©2003
NOLA.com. All Rights Reserved.
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