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Absinthe Ducros Fils
Art Print
Cappiello,...
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Blackbeard
Richard Hook
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Puerto Rican Rum
and Daiquiri
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Jones, Adam
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Millsap, Diane
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Pirates Alley in the French Quarter
Diane Millsap
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La Belle Cuisine
Mardi Gras 2013 - 12 February
Sazerac
The Restaurants of New Orleans
Roy F. Guste, Jr., 1982, W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.
 
"In 1859 John B. Schiller opened
a bar in Exchange Alley called the Sazerac
Coffee House, which he named after the French
Cognac he served there –
Sazerac-de-Forge. His cognac cocktails became very popular,
particularly
his cocktail of Cognac and Peychaud bitters. The bar changed hands and
became
the Sazerac House and the drink changed, too – absinthe was added,
and the Sazerac-de-Forge Cognac was substituted with rye whiskey.
In 1949 owners of the Roosevelt Hotel purchased exclusive
rights to the
Sazerac cocktail, and the hotel bar was named the Sazerac.
When the Fairmont Corporation purchased the Roosevelt, they
wanted a magnificent dining room. Thus was born in 1973 the Sazerac Restaurant…"
[The New Orleans Fairmont still
features the infamous Sazerac Bar (serving "America’s
first cocktail") and the Sazerac Grill, recently renovated to reflect
a bistro-
style setting overlooking the
opulent Fairmont lobby. Ed.]
Sazerac Cocktail
The following is touted to be the original
recipe from the Sazerac
House:
1 teaspoon sugar
1 dash Peychaud bitters
1 dash Angostura bitters
1 1/2 ounces rye whiskey
1 dash Herbsaint or absinthe substitute
1 twist lemon peel
Pack one 3 1/2-ounce Old Fashioned glass with crushed ice.
In another Old Fashioned glass blend the sugar, Peychaud and
Angostura bitters, and the rye whiskey until the sugar is dissolved.
Add a cube or two
of
ice, and stir.
Take the first glass, discard the ice, and drop in a dash of
Herbsaint.
Twirl
the glass to coat the inside with Herbsaint, and pour out any
liquid
remaining in the bottom.
Pour the blended cocktail into this glass. Twist a lemon peel over
the
cocktail, but don’t drop it into the glass. Serves 1.
Brennan’s Pirate’s Dream
Brennan's New Orleans Cookbook:
With the Story of the Fabulous
New Orleans Restaurant
Hermann B. Deutsch, Deirdre Stanforth, 1961,
Robert L. Crager & Company.
The latest
edition was published in 1982 by
Pelican
Publishing Co., Inc.)
One of my fondest memories is of dinner with my mother at
Brennan's
Vieux
Carré, which was the first culinary enterprise of the incomparable
Brennan's clan. Just walking through the door was enough to take my
breath away. I felt as
though I had been transported to a luxurious fairy-
land, resplendent with candlelight,
plush carpeting, and impeccably
dressed guests.
Owen Brennan very often came to the table to greet us more often than
not, and usually served my special
"Shirley Temple" drink himself. It
was a spectacularly
outrageous (no doubt
grenadine-loaded) concoction
overflowing with maraschino cherries,
slices of assorted citrus fruit,
Japanese umbrellas and other such whimsical items of
tremendous child
appeal. I recall being particularly fascinated by the abundance
of
multi-
colored straws. Actually, the drink was the "virgin" version of Owen
Brennan's imaginative contribution to a long list of New Orleans
originals,
called
"Pirate's Dream."
No doubt the name was inspired by the fact that he got his
start in the
gastronomic world of the French Quarter when he bought what he referred
to as
a "saloon" -
the Old Absinthe House. Legend has it that the building
contained a
secret
chamber, which was the meeting place of Andrew Jackson
and Jean Lafitte.
Myths
linking Lafitte and his band of pirates to the Old Absinthe House
abound,
so why not
capitalize on the mystique? My childhood fascination
with this
mystique continues to this
day. The booming success of Owen's
"saloon" venture
led indirectly to the birth
of Brennan's Vieux Carré,
directly opposite the Old Absinthe House on Bourbon Street.
(MG)
1/2 ounce grenadine
1 ounce Bacardi rum
1 ounce Myer’s rum
1 ounce Christopher Columbus rum
1 ounce Ronrico 151 proof rum
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Juice of 1 orange
Juice of 1 lemon
8-10 cherries
Fresh green mint
In a large glass capable of holding 26-28 ounces, crush a couple of
sprigs
of mint. Add rum, grenadine, orange and lemon juice and bitters. Make
sure that the
mint is blended into the other ingredients. Fill the glass with
crushed ice, adding
cherries throughout so that they will be spaced through
the drink. As a last touch add
cherries to the top of the drink, and a slice of orange and a slice of lemon to decorate
the rim. Serve with 8 or 10 straws.
Ramos Gin Fizz
Commander's Palace
New Orleans Cookbook
by Ella and Dick Brennan, 1984,
Crown Publishing Group
"One of New Orleans’ most famous drinks, the Ramos
gin fizz, was named after Henry C. Ramos, who invented it in the 1880s in his bar at
Meyer’s Restaurant.
The original recipe has always been a well-guarded secret. The
thick, frothy
mixture with its delicate bouquet of orange-flower water makes it one of our
most popular brunch drinks, especially in spring and summer, when people
love to sip it
out on the patio.
If using an electric blender, mix the ingredients at high
speed until thick and
airy, then serve in tall thin glasses or double old-fashioned
glasses."
1 1/2 ounces gin
1/2 ounce Simple Syrup
1 dash orange-flower water
1 egg white
1/3 ounce lemon juice
2 ounces half-and-half or light cream
Half fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. Add gin and remaining
ingre-
dients.
Shake until frothy and strain into a 9-ounce old-fashioned glass.
Makes 1 drink.
Entrance to Pat O'Briens
Pat O’Brien’s Hurricane
The New Orleans Restaurant Cookbook
by Deirdre Stanforth, 1967, Doubleday & Co., Inc.
2 ounces Jero’s Red Passion Fruit Cocktail Mix
2 ounces fresh lemon juice
4 ounces dark rum (amber)
1 orange slice
1 maraschino cherry
Fill a hurricane glass with crushed ice, add Cocktail Mix, lemon
juice,
and rum, and decorate with orange slice and cherry.
Jezebel Cocktail -
Tchoupitoulas Plantation
The Restaurants of New Orleans
Roy F. Guste, Jr., 1982, W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.
The site of the Tchoupitoulas Plantation was acquired in
1808 by Joseph
Soniat du Fossat. According to legend, privateer Jean Lafitte was a guest
at the plantation.
"Norma Wallace, a famous New Orleans madame, bought the
Tchoupitoulas Plantation in the early 1950s and operated it as an elegant brothel until
1963,
when the Tchoupitoulas Restaurant opened. She sold the restaurant
in 1968. It
was
again sold in 1977 to Emile Genarro. Emile’s wife and son
Charles ran the restaurant
until the elder Genarros retired and Charles
took over…
"Tchoupitoulas Plantation actually was a plantation and
still maintains
the atmosphere of one…A popular concoction of Charles’s is his
Jezebel
Cocktail,
the name being in keeping with the history of Tchoupitoulas."
Mix together in a shaker:
2 ounces of apricot brandy
1 1/2 ounces of dark rum
2 ounces of orange juice
2 ounces of lemon juice
4 ounces of green passion fruit liquid
Pour over crushed ice. Add 3/4 ounce of blackberry brandy, but
do not stir.
Garnish with a cherry and an orange slice.
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