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Have a heart for New Orleans...
Antoine's Restaurant in the French Quarter
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Millsap, Diane
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New Orleans Side Street
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Evening in a Courtyard
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French Quarter, New Orleans, Louisiana, USA
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Glorious French Quarter
Diane Millsap
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La Belle Cuisine
Most of the following background information and the recipes
are excerpted from "The New Orleans Restaurant Cookbook" by Deirdre Stanforth,
published in 1967 by Doubleday & Co., Inc. This delightfully entertaining and
informative cookbook
is unfortunately out of print. Perhaps luck will be with you and you
can locate it...
If not, just
contact
us if you're looking for a particular New Orleans
restaurant recipe. Who knows, we
just may have it!
Among my many blessings I count the privilege of having
spent a large part
of my childhood in New Orleans. Because my mother was a woman of
dis-
criminating taste, I was introduced to some of the finer things in life at a
very early
age. Fine cuisine was certainly included, which means that my
love affair with New Orleans
delicacies has endured over half a century!
One of my first memorable meals was at
the world-renowned Antoine's...
"It was spring in 1840, when New Orleans was
queen city of the Mississippi
River, when cotton was king and French gentlemen settled
their differences
under the oaks with pistols for two and coffee for one.
"Dixie" had not yet
been written, destined to become the marching anthem for
Confederate forces
in the War Between the States.
This was the city young Antoine Alciatore adopted, after two frustrating
years
in New York, to establish a restaurant that would endure under his family's
direction for more than 150 years and set the standard that has made New
Orleans one of
the great dining centers of the world." (Antoine's)
Deirdre Stanforth describes Antoine's as
"probably the world's most famous restaurant". She continues, "Behind the
typical French Quarter façade is a deliberately plain dining room with white-tiled floor,
hatracks, Victorian brass chandeliers, and the original early gas mantles..."
Antoine's has both the look
and feel of a venerable institution; there is a unquestionable
sense of history in
its numerous public and private dining rooms. It is the sort of place
that triggers
the wish that the walls could talk... what amazing stories they would tell!
Among Antoine's many claims to fame are culinary delights that
originated in
its kitchen: Oysters Rockefeller, fabulous Soufflé Potatoes, and
Pompano en
Papillote. As much as I'd like to be able to pass along all three of these
recipes
to you, we'll have to settle for one, Pompano en Papillote. (Update!
See Oysters Rockefeller
and
Antoine's Pommes de Terres Soufflés.)
The Oysters
Rockefeller recipe is a jealously guarded secret. An interesting
culinary note is that the
recipe is often imitated. Many New Orleans restaurants
offer their own version, most
containing spinach, which we are assured is NOT
an ingredient of Antoine's recipe. Deirdre Stanforth informs us that the sauce,
developed by Jules Alciatore as an adaptation of the
sauce in Snails Bourgignon served by Antoine's in the 1850s, is made up of 18
ingredients, including ab-
sinthe, and is so rich that it was named after America's
wealthiest citizen.
But enough talk... on to the recipes!
La Chair de Crabe à la Creole
(Crabmeat St. Pierre)
1 1/2 pounds crabmeat
1/4 stick [2 tablespoons] butter
1/2 cup chopped green onions
1/4 cup chopped bell (green) pepper
1 cup peeled tomatoes
1 clove minced garlic
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Salt and cayenne to taste
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese
Sauté crabmeat in butter only long enough to cook the meat. Add
green onions, bell pepper, tomatoes, garlic, and parsley. Season to taste and cook
all
ingredients until slightly thickened. Cover with a mixture of bread crumbs and grated
cheese. Pass under the broiler and serve immediately. Serves 6. [Appetizer]
Oysters Bonne
Femme
(from The Restaurants of New Orleans, Roy F. Guste, Jr.,
1982, W.W. Norton
& Co., Inc.)
3 dozen oysters in their liquor
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup dry white wine
3/4 cup chopped green onions
1 tablespoon minced parsley
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/2 teaspoon white pepper or to taste
1 cup lump crabmeat
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) grated Swiss cheese
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) grated Romano cheese
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) grated mozzarella cheese
1/3 cup bread crumbs
Put the oysters in a small saucepan with their liquor and simmer
for 10
to 12 minutes or until they are cooked, not soft. Strain the liquid from
the oysters (about 1 3/4 cups) and set aside.
Melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook the flour
and
butter together for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mixture
becomes foamy.
Add the reserved oyster liquor, the white wine, green
onions, parsley, salt and pepper.
Bring to a boil then turn down to a
simmer and continue cooking for 15 minutes. Fold in
the oysters and
crabmeat, being careful not to break them up. Adjust the seasoning if
necessary.
In a separate bowl, blend the grated cheeses and bread crumbs.
To serve, spoon the warm oyster and crabmeat mixture into either a
1-quart soufflé dish or six individual 1/2-cup soufflé dishes. Sprinkle
the cheese and
bread crumb mixture evenly over the top. Bake for 20
minutes in a preheated 400-degree
[F.] oven or until the cheese is
melted and begins to brown. Remove from the oven and
serve.
Serves 6. [Appetizer]
Hearts of
Artichoke Bayard
From The Restaurants of New Orleans, Roy F. Guste, Jr.
>
5 quarts water
3 tablespoons salt
6 artichokes
Vinaigrette Sauce:
1/3 cup vinegar
1 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon mustard powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 1/2 dozen flat anchovy fillets
(a small tin contains 1 dozen
fillets)
1 cup minced celery, strings removed
1/4 cup minced parsley
3/4 cup minced green onions
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 ripe tomatoes
3 cups chopped lettuce (1 large
head of Boston or Bibb lettuce)
1 hard-boiled egg, minced
3 teaspoons caviar or roe (black)
In a large pot, bring the water to a boil and add 3 tablespoons of
salt.
Add the artichokes, and boil for 35 minutes or until done.
Prepare the vinaigrette by combining the vinegar, olive oil,
powdered
mustard, salt and 1/4 teaspoon of white pepper in a bowl and whisking
together, or
putting these ingredients in a bottle, capping the bottle, and
shaking well.
Remove the artichokes from the water, drain, and cool. When the
arti-
chokes are cool enough to handle, cut off the stems and discard. Remove
the leaves,
and scrape off and retain the meat from the leaves; discard the
leaves. Scrape off the
hairy part of the artichoke and discard. Chill the six
hearts and the meat from the
leaves.
Drain and mince a dozen of the anchovy fillets.
In a bowl combine the minced anchovies, celery, parsley, green
onions,
leaf scrapings, 1 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of pepper. Divide the
mixture
into six equal portions. Use your hands to form the portions into
balls, and squeeze out
any excess liquid from the vegetables.
To assemble the salad, begin by slicing each of the two tomatoes
into
three slices vertically, and then cut the slices in half. Put one half cup
of the
chopped lettuce on each of six salad plates. Place an artichoke
heart in the center and a
ball of the mixed vegetables on each heart.
Arrange two tomato slices on the plate on each
side of the heart so
that the inside of the slice is against the heart. The end slices
should
be placed skin side down.
Chill the salads.
When ready to serve, form the 6 remaining anchovies into rings and
fill each with 1/2 teaspoon of the caviar. Spoon the vinaigrette over
each salad, then
sprinkle on the minced egg, and finally place a
caviar-filled anchovy on the top of each
ball. Serves 6.
Pompano en Papillote
"Many a chef has created a dish,
but only God
could have cooked that fish."
~
Cecil B. DeMille, in response to eating
Antoine's Pompano en
Papillote
3 medium-sized pompanos*
3 cups water
1 chopped shallot or
2 tablespoons chopped onion
6 tablespoons butter
2 1/4 cups white wine
1 cup crabmeat
1 cup diced cooked shrimp
1/2 clove garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups chopped onions
Pinch thyme
1 bay leaf
2 cups fish stock
2 tablespoons flour
2 egg yolks
Salt and pepper
* Fresh salmon, sea trout, or striped bass may
be used when pompano
is unavailable
Clean pompanos and cut into 6 fillets, removing head and backbone.
Simmer heads and bones in water until there are 2 cups stock. Sauté
fillets with shallot
in 2 tablespoons butter and add 2 cups wine. Cover
and simmer slowly until fillets are
tender, about 5-8 minutes.
Sauté crabmeat, shrimp, and 1/4 clove garlic in 2 tablespoons
butter. Add onion and remaining garlic and cook 10 minutes. Add thyme, bay leaf, and
1 3/4
cups fish stock, and simmer 10 minutes.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter, blend in flour, and gradually stir in
remaining
1/4 cup fish stock. Add to crabmeat mixture with wine stock drained from
fillets.
Simmer, stirring constantly, until thickened. Beat egg yolks and mix
with sauce and
remaining 1/4 cup wine. Add salt and pepper to taste. Chill
in refrigerator until firm.
Cut 6 parchment hearts 12 inches long and 8 inches wide. Oil paper
well. Place the sauce (divided into 6 portions) on one side of heart, lay fillet on
sauce, and
fold over other half of paper. Seal edges of paper by folding
over and pinching together
all around. Lay the sealed hearts on an oiled
baking sheet and bake at 450
degrees F. 15 minutes, or
until the paper
hearts are browned. Serve
at once, cutting open paper at table. Serves 6.
Café Brûlot Diabolique
One 1-inch stick cinnamon
8 whole cloves
Peel of 1 lemon, cut thin
3 lumps sugar
3 jiggers brandy
3 cups strong black coffee
In a brûlot bowl or chafing dish, place cinnamon, clove, lemon peel
and sugar. Put brandy into a ladle, ignite, and pour over ingredients in
bowl. Keep
ladling brandy over ingredients until sugar is dissolved.
Gradually add coffee and
continue ladling mixture until the flames
fade. Serve immediately. Makes 8 demitasse or
brûlot cups.
713-717 Rue Saint Louis, New Orleans, LA 70130
Telephone: (504) 581-4422, Fax: (504) 581-300,
Email: info@antoines.com
More New Orleans Restaurant Recipes:
Arnaud's
Brennan's
Caribbean Room
Commander's Palace
Corinne Dunbar's
Emeril's
Galatoire's
Mr. B's Bistro
Commander's Palace Recipes!
Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?
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