Jazz in the Big Easy
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Diane Millsap
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      La Belle Cuisine

Gumbo Galaxy (cont.)

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Although no dish better defines New Orleans cooking than seafood
gumbo, there are probably as many gumbos as there are cooks.
~ Ti Adelaide Martin, "Commander's Kitchen"

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La Belle Cuisine


Seafood Gumbo with Okra

Commander's Kitchen:
Take Home the True Taste
of New Orleans with More
than 150 Recipes from
Commander's Palace Restaurant
by Ty Adelaide Martin and Jamie Shannon
2000, Broadway Books, a division of Random House, Inc.


“ ‘Let me tell you how I make my gumbo.’ That’s how many conversations begin
in these parts. Although no dish better defines New Orleans cooking than sea-
food gumbo, there are probably as many gumbos as there are cooks. Here’s ours.
At the beginning, we add gumbo crabs to impart a great flavor of the sea. Add
shrimp and oysters at the end so they don’t become overcooked and rubbery.”

Makes 5 quarts, enough for about 16 entrée servings

3/4 cup vegetable oil
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 onions, in medium dice
1 medium bunch celery, in medium dice
6 medium cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
Pinch of dried oregano
Pinch of dried basil
Pinch of dried thyme
4 bay leaves, preferably fresh
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 quarts cold water

1 1/2 pounds gumbo crabs or blue crabs
(hard-shell tops off, gill removed, cut in half,
with claws cracked with back of knife)
1 pound andouille sausage, sliced in
1/4-inch rounds (sausage should
be smoked and firm; other smoked
sausage can be substituted)
1/4 pound okra, tops removed,
in 1/8-inch-thick rings
1 pound medium shrimp, peeled
and deveined, tails on
1 quart shucked oysters, in their liquor
Hot sauce to taste
Boiled rice
3 green onions, thinly sliced

 Pour the oil into a heavy, dry stockpot with a capacity of at least 8 quarts, and heat the oil until it is very hot. Make a roux by slowly adding the flour and stirring constantly with a wooden spoon for about 3 to 5 minutes, until
the mixture is the color of milk chocolate. Scraping the sides of the pot and stirring constantly are the key to a good roux. Be careful not to burn the
roux; if black spots appear, it will be unusable and you will need to start
over. Once roux is the proper color, add the onions, cook for 1 minute,
add the celery, and cook for 30 seconds. Add the bell pepper and scrape
the bottom of the pot. The aroma should be slightly burned and very appealing. Add the garlic, cayenne, oregano, basil, thyme, bay leaves,
salt, and pepper.
Add the cold water to the mixture, stirring constantly to prevent lumps.
Add the crabs and sausage, bring to a boil, then simmer, uncovered, for
45 minutes, skimming constantly and stirring occasionally to avoid stick-
ing. Add the okra and cook for 15 minutes more, skimming off any fat.
Stir gently so as not to break up the okra. Add the shrimp, the oysters,
and the oyster liquor, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer
for 10 minutes.
Finish the soup with your favorite Louisiana hot sauce, then adjust the
salt and pepper to taste. Serve over rice, and garnish with the green onions.

Chef Jamie’s Tips: Skimming gumbos is essential to a good, clean
shine. You may want to adjust consistency by adding more water to
thin it or simmering to thicken it.

In Memoriam - Chef Jamie Shannon


Duck and Wild Mushroom Gumbo

Louisiana Real and Rustic

Emeril Lagasse with Marcelle Bienvenu,
1996, William Morrow & Co.

“By the time winter winds blow through Louisiana, avid sportsmen have
readied their hunting camps, located either in the lowlands of south
Louisiana or on the lakes scattered throughout the state. When flocks
of green-winged teal, mallards, and pintails fly overhead in loose V
formations, passionate hunters can hardly wait to prepare the first
duck gumbo of the season.
A young friend of mine explained once that there are several rites of
passage that every young man in south Louisiana must go through on
his way to manhood. Eating raw oysters, killing a buck, and mastering
the art of frogging are all part of the experience. One ritual that many
consider to be the most sacred of all is cooking supper for a group of men
at the camp. When I cooked my first duck dinner at a camp, I sweated
it out until I was given a nod of approval from my companions. Here is
my recipe. If a wild duck is unavailable, a domestic duck will do fine.
I advise baking the duck a day ahead.”

1 large duck (4 1/2 to 5 pounds) or
2 smaller ducks of the same weight
2 teaspoons plus 3/4 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons Rustic Rub
3/4 cup flour
1 1/2 cups chopped onions
1 cup chopped bell peppers
1 cup chopped celery
2 cups sliced assorted wild
mushrooms, such as
shiitakes, oysters, or
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
3 bay leaves
2 quarts chicken broth [stock]
2 cups water

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Rub the duck with 2 teaspoons of the oil and season with the Rub.
Bake in a roasting pan, uncovered, for 45 minutes, or until tender.
Remove and let cool. Cut the duck into 8 serving pieces. Refrigerate
until ready to use.
3. Combine the remaining 3/4 cup oil and the flour in a large cast-iron or enameled cast-iron Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Stirring slowly
and constantly for 12 to 15 minutes, make a medium brown roux, the
color of peanut butter.
4.Add the onions, bell peppers, celery, and duck pieces. Reduce the heat
to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the
vegetables are wilted and golden. Add the mushrooms, garlic, salt,
cayenne, thyme and bay leaves. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes.
Add the broth [stock] and water. Bring the mixture to a gentle boil
and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours.
5. Remove the bay leaves and add the green onions.
6. Serve in soup bowls.

Gumbo Galaxy, Page 1

Featured archive recipes:
Gumbo Ya Ya (Mr. B's Bistro)
Gumbo Ya Ya Two (More) Ways
Chef John Folse's Chicken, Oyster
and Andouille Gumbo

Chef Paul Prudhomme's Chicken
and Andouille Gumbo

Chef John Folse's Creole Turtle Soup
New Orleans Oyster and Artichoke Soup
Chef Paul Prudhomme's Corn and
Andouille Soup


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