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Cabbage Braised with
Riesling and Bacon



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La Belle Cuisine


Cabbage Braised with
Riesling and Bacon

Chez Panisse Cooking
by Paul Bertolli with Alice Waters
1988, Random House, Inc., New York

For 4

"Cabbage is a good vegetable to braise. Slow cooking tones down its pungent, peppery qualities and its tough leaves are softened. Cabbage readily takes on
the aromas of the elements with which it is cooked – in this case, aromatic vegetables, Riesling, and smoked bacon. Cabbage also carries the flavors of
meat juices and the smooth richness of certain animal fats, giving this dish
a wintry feel.
If you have rendered duck or goose fat, substitute it for the olive oil in this
recipe, or if you serve this cabbage with roast fowl, lamb or pork (for which
it has a great affinity), season the cabbage with some of the juices released
from the meats after they have rested.
This dish can be made with either red or Dutch winter white cabbage or
Savoy cabbage, the lighter, loose-growing head with crinkled leaves."

1 cabbage (1 pound)
2 tablespoons pure olive oil
1 small carrot (3 ounces), peeled,
cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/2 large stalk of celery (2 ounces),
cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 small yellow onion (5 ounces), peeled,
cut into 1/4-inch dice
4 ounces smoked bacon, sliced 1/4 inch thick,
cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
3/4 cup slightly sweet Riesling or
2 teaspoons salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or
cider vinegar

Slice the cabbage in half, remove the core, and cut the cabbage into
rough chunks about 1 inch wide. Warm the olive oil in a 6-quart non-corroding casserole. Add the vegetables, bacon, thyme, and wine and
bring to a simmer. Put half the cabbage in the pot and sprinkle 1 tea-
spoon of the salt and a little freshly ground pepper over the layer.
Repeat with the remaining cabbage.
Cover the pot tightly and braise the cabbage slowly over low heat. After
20 minutes, stir the cabbage gently so that the leaves on top move to the
bottom and the vegetables and bacon are mixed throughout. Replace the
cover and cook another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the cabbage is tender.
Taste the cabbage and correct for salt and pepper if necessary. Add the vinegar and toss well.
The cabbage can be made several hours in advance, or while a roast is cooking, and warmed just before serving.

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