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Inside-out, Upside-down Tirami Su
Baking with Julia
Contributing Baker Lauren Groveman
by Dorie
Greenspan, based on the PBS Series
hosted by Julia Child, 1996, William
Morrow and Co.
Makes 4
servings
“This
praiseworthy dessert rethinks all the elements of a traditional tirami
sù.
Instead of a soft cake soaked in a warm espresso syrup, this dessert is
all
crunch
and chill. It is based on a disk of phyllo, a single scrunched-up
sheet
brushed with butter and sprinkled with ginger and sugar so that it
bakes
to a shiny, caramelized little cake. Here it is layered with
cappuccino
granite
and mascarpone sabayon,
but you’ll find yourself using it
also as a
foundation
for warm sautéed fruits, the best-ever bottom to a hot
fudge sun-
dae, or the
sandwiches for a mousse-filled ‘flying saucer’. As with
other
phyllo desserts,
this is a sweet of parts, and each part can be made
ahead.”
The Granita
1 1/4 cups cold brewed espresso
1/4 cup skim milk
1/4 cup simple syrup*, cooled
Pour all of the ingredients into a 9-inch square metal pan
and stir to
combine. Unlike other granitas, this one requires no more
stirring. Place
the pan, uncovered, in the freezer and freeze until solid.
If you are not
going to use the granite within an hour or two, cover it well
with plastic
wrap or foil. When you are ready to serve, use the edge of a
metal spoon
or the tines of a fork to scrape the granita, allowing it to
mound in the
pan. You are looking for a texture like grainy shaved ice. Once
scraped,
the
granita can remain frozen for an hour or so, but it is really
best used
as
soon after scraping as possible.
* Simple Syrup – A combination of sugar and water,
simple syrup is most
frequently used to make sorbets and to poach fruits.
The standard sim-
ple
syrup is made by combining equal parts water and sugar.
Bring the
mixture
to a boil, boil for 1 minute, and remove from the heat.
The Sabayon
3 large egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup milk (2% milk is fine)
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/3 cup heavy cream
2/3 cup mascarpone
Bring an inch or two of water to a simmer in the bottom of a
double
boiler or in a saucepan over which you can place a metal bowl. Half
fill a large bowl with ice cubes; set aside.
Combine the egg yolks, sugar, milk, and cinnamon in the top
of the
double boiler or a metal bowl and set it in place over, but not
touch-
ing,
the hot water. Keeping the water at a simmer, whisk the
ingredi-
ents until
they are slightly thickened and foamy, about 8 minutes.
The tracks of your whisk should remain for an instant before dissolving
and
the consistency of the sauce should remind you of a custard saucee
or a thin pastry cream. Remove the top of the double boiler or the bowl
and place it
in the bowl
of ice cubes. Whisk constantly until the sauce is
cool, about 3
minutes.
You can make the sabayon to this point and
refrigerate it for up to
a day.
Beat the heavy cream until it holds soft peaks; set aside for
a moment.
Soften and lighten the mascarpone by stirring it with a rubber
spatula.
With the spatula, fold the mascarpone and whipped cream into the
chilled sabayon. Keep the sauce covered in the refrigerator until needed.
Chilled,
the sauce will keep for about 4 hours.
The Phyllo
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon ginger
4 sheets phyllo dough
3 tablespoons clarified unsalted butter
Milk chocolate curls or finely chopped
milk chocolate,
for
garnish
Confectioners’ sugar, for sprinkling
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter the bottom and
sides of
eight 4-inch round baking pans* and dust them with sugar, tapping
out the excess.
(The butter and sugar for the pans are in addition to the
amounts called for in the ingredients list.)
* As of
this writing, there
is an extensive list of sources for bakeware and
equipment listed in
the
cookbook. Although Cooking.com has a
surpris-
ingly extensive inventory
of round
baking pans, I was not able to locate
the 4-inch
variety there. No
luck with
Williams-Sonoma, Dean & Deluca,
or Chef's
catalog, either. You
might want to
try Lamalle Kitchenware in
New York
(800.660.0750) or New
York Cake and
Baking Distributorss
(212.675.CAKE).
(Please verify these phone numbers!))
Whisk the sugar and ginger together in a small bowl; set
aside.
Lay the phyllo sheets out on your work surface. Cut the
sheets in half crosswise and work with a half sheet at a time, keeping the
remaining
sheets covered with a kitchen towel. Brush the phyllo with some of
the
butter and sprinkle with some of the ginger-sugar. Peel the dough off
the counter (you will have buttered it down, no doubt) and scrunch it into a
disk, trying to keep the buttered side out. Don’t worry if the phyllo tears
in places, it will still make a fine pillow. Place the disk in a prepared pan,
press down lightly, and continue working through the batch.
Baking the Phyllo Place the pans on a baking sheet
and bake for 8 to
10 minutes, or until the sugar has caramelized and the
phyllo is golden
brown. Turn the disks out onto a rack and cool to room
temperature.
Finishing the Pastries For each serving, place 1
phyllo pillow in a
bowl and top with some granita, a big spoonful of
mascarpone sabayon,
and another pillow. Scatter chocolate curls over the
top, sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar, and serve immediately.
Storing Each element of this dessert can be made
ahead, but the
assembled tirami sù must be served at once – granita has a
short lifespan.
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