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La Belle Cuisine
Coffee: A Connoisseur's Companion
by Claudia Roden, 1994, Random House, Inc.
beverages are as intoxicating, heartwarming and utterly pleasurable
really good coffee. Flavour, body, colour, stimulation and above all
play their part in making it so. It is not surprising that it is firmly
established as one of the essential pleasures of our life today.”
~ Claudia Roden
“Coffee plays a part in a
remarkable variety of sweet dishes, as do chocolate
and the vanilla pod,
both of which coffee often partners. A good companion
to most spirits and
spices, it goes well with all nuts, especially with caramelized
pralines. It gives a subtle surprise flavour to a few sauces and syrups
fruits such as baked apples, fried bananas and stewed pears, or served with
ice creams, mousses, puddings and soufflés. Various creams and custards find
an original alternative with the addition of a little coffee. Many dishes
evolved around the special qualities of coffee and these often go under
name of Mocha."
Parfait au Café
and creamy and as perfect as the name implies.”
4 heaped tablespoons freshly roasted
medium ground coffee
300 ml (1/2 pint; 1 1/4 cups)
single (light) cream
300 ml (1/2 pint; 1 1/4 cups)
double (heavy) cream
4 egg yolks
150 g( 5 oz; 2/3 cup) sugar
Bring the single (light) cream to the boil. Add the coffee,
stir well and let
it infuse for at least twenty minutes. Beat the sugar and
the egg yolks in a
bowl. Strain the cream through a fine sieve into the egg
mixture and beat
vigorously until well blended. Set the pan over boiling
water and stir until
the mixture thickens like a custard. Leave to cool.
Whip the double cream
until fairly stiff and fold into the cream
custard. Freeze in an ice tray
for three to four hours. Stir after an hour,
bringing the frozen sides into
There are many delicious variations to this basic coffee ice
may add Tia Maria or Curaçao, or you may fold in grated chocolate
chocolate sauce. Crushed burnt almonds or praline made with almonds
hazelnuts may be stirred into the cooled custard before freezing.
boiled chestnuts macerated in maraschino are delicious mixed
into the ice
cream before it is frozen. In France, scoops of these parfaits
served on a bed of whipped cream and decorated with chocolate-covered coffee
beans. An irresistible coupe called ‘Jamaïque’ is pineapple
dice soaked in
rum, covered with coffee ice and sprinkled with freshly pulverized coffee.
Another, ‘Clo-Clo’ has broken marrons glacés (chest-
nuts preserved in
sweet syrup) soaked in maraschino at the bottom of the coupe. These are
covered with coffee ice cream decorated with vanilla-flavored whipped cream
in which is embedded a single marron.
to serve with ice creams and puddings.
Into a sugar syrup made by boiling 500 g/1 pound sugar and
(1/4 pint; 2/3 cup) of water, stir two teaspoons of instant coffee
four tablespoons of cocoa, and cook a little while longer.
to serve with ice creams and puddings.
Beat two eggs. Add 150 ml (1/4 pint; 2/3 cup) of strong hot
gradually, beating well. Add a pinch of salt and 50 g (2 oz; 1/4 cup)
of sugar, and stir over boiling water until the sauce thickens. Do not
it curdle. Chill. Just before serving, fold in 150 ml (1/4 pint;
2/3 cup) of
thick whipped cream.
Chocolate and Coffee Sauce
sauce to serve with ice creams and puddings.
Melt 100 g/1/4 lb of bittersweet chocolate broken into pieces
in 30 ml
(1 fl oz; 1 tablespoon) of strong coffee and stir well. Let it cool
50 g (2 oz; 4 tablespoons) of butter, a little at a time, beating
until it is
and fragrant dessert.
Make 150 ml (1/4 pint; 2/3 cup) of fresh, extra-strong coffee
using three heaped tablespoons of a medium roast. While this is still hot,
stir in 15 g
(1/2 oz; 1 tablespoon) of powdered unflavoured gelatine until
Beat three egg yolks* with three or four tablespoons of sugar in a
over a pan of hot [not boiling] water until thick and creamy. Remove
from the pan and continue to beat until it has cooled. Gradually stir in the
coffee and gelatine mixture and 150 ml (1/4 pint; 2/3 cup) of single (light)
cream, and beat well. Whisk the three egg whites until they are stiff, then
gently fold into the coffee mixture. Pour into a wet mould and chill until
it is set.
This mousse may also be scented with a vanilla pod (bean). Other
alternative addition are rum, Kirsch and Cognac.
Pots de Crème à la Javanaise
600 ml (1 pint; 2 1/2 cups) milk
3 tablespoons medium roast
3 tablespoons sugar
3 egg yolks
1 whole egg
Bring the milk to the boil with the ground coffee and allow
to infuse a
few minutes. Strain. Stir in the sugar. In a bowl, lightly beat
egg yolks and one whole egg. Gradually pour in the milk,
Pour the custard into ramekins. Place in a tray with water
two-thirds of the height of the pots. Bake in a preheated
oven 160 degrees C, 325 degrees F (gas 3) for about 45 minutes or
cream has set.
For Pots de Crème au Mocha, melt 50 g (2 oz; 1/2 cup)
broken into pieces, in the milk at the same time as the sugar.
Charlotte Malakoff au Café
Serves 12 or
250 g (1/2 pound) softened unsalted butter
175 g (6 oz; 2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
1 egg yolk
175 g (6 oz; 2/3 cup) coarsely ground almonds or
or a mixture of both
90 ml (3 fl oz; 3/8 cup) coffee made with
400 ml (3/4 pint; 2 cups) cream, whipping, or a
mixture of single (light)
and double (heavy)
40 sponge fingers [ladyfingers]
1 small glass rum, coffee liqueur or Cognac
300 ml (1/2 pint; 1 1/4 cups) milk
Toasted split almonds
Cream butter and sugar for three or four minutes until soft.
Beat in the
egg yolk and the coffee until a smooth cream. Stir in the ground
or walnuts. Beat 400 ml (3/4 pint; 2 cups) of whipping cream, or 300
(1/2 pint; 1 1/4 cups) of double (heavy) and 150 ml (1/4 pint; 2/3 cups) of
single (light) cream, until stiff and fold into the almond and coffee
Line a round cake tin – about 8 cm (3 in) high and 20 cm (8
in) in diameter
– with greaseproof paper [parchment or wax paper]. Dip the
sponge fingers [ladyfingers] in the milk mixed with the rum, Cognac or
liqueur for a few seconds only. Turn them over once and do not let them
become saturated. Line the bottom and sides of the tin with them. Turn half
of the almond
coffee cream into the lined mould. Arrange a layer of the
[ladyfingers] over it. Repeat with another layer of cream and
fingers [ladyfingers]. Trim the tops of the sponge fingers
lining the sides if necessary. Cover with greaseproof paper.
Put in the
refrigerator for a few hours at least, preferably overnight,
The cream must be chilled firm.
Remove the greaseproof paper. Run a knife around the inside
mould and turn the dessert out onto a serving dish. Peel the
paper from the top and return to the refrigerator until serving
Decorate with toasted split almonds, and serve with whipped cream.
Espresso Ice Cream
New Orleans Jolt Cake
Index - Chocolate Recipe
Index - Miscellaneous Dessert
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