Christmas Dinner
Food and Wine Holiday Cookbook
Food & Wine Books, Editorial Director: Judith Hill,
©1996, American Express Publishing Corporation
Mushrooms with Dilled Sour Cream on Toast
Cauliflower Oyster Stew
Roast East Hampton Golden Goose
Apricot Walnut Stuffing
Braised Red Cabbage with Maple-Glazed Chestnuts
Ali Baba
Mushrooms with Dilled Sour Cream on Toast
“Served here as a first course, this dish is similar to one that would be
served
as part of a Russian ‘zakuska’ (small bites) table.”
Wine Recommendation: A wine has to have plenty of personality to deal
with the dill in this dish. Sauvignon Blanc, with its acidity, body,
and
strong flavor, is an ideal choice. Try one from New Zealand.
Serves 6
12 tablespoons butter
6 slices white or whole-wheat bread,
crusts removed
1 pound small mushrooms
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 1/2 cups sour cream
1/2 cup minced fresh dill, or
2 teaspoons dried dill
1 tablespoon onion juice
(squeezed from grated onion)
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper
Pinch cayenne
Paprika, for garnish
1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Melt 8 tablespoons of the
butter. Brush
the trimmed slices of bread on both sides with melted butter.
Put the
bread slices on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven, turning
once,
until they are crisp, about 5 minutes per side.
2. Heat the broiler. Remove the stems from the mushrooms and discard.
Toss
the caps with the lemon juice.
3. In a medium frying pan, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter over
moderate heat. Add the mushroom caps and cook for 1 minute, with-
out letting
them brown or soften.
4. In a medium bowl, mix the sour cream, dill, and onion juice. Add salt,
black pepper, and cayenne to taste.
5. Spoon the mushrooms over the toast and cover with the dilled cream.
Dust
with paprika and broil until bubbly, about 1 minute.
- Pearl Byrd Foster
Cauliflower Oyster Stew
“Luscious, rich, and quick to make – served in small portions,
this twist
on oyster stew makes an ideal first course.”
Wine Recommendation: Try a light, lively white such as Muscadet de
Sèvre-et-Maine,
a classic French shellfish wine. The acidic briskness of the
wine pairs well
with the cauliflower and counterpoints the dish’s richness.
Serves 6
1 head cauliflower (about 2 pounds),
cut into pieces
2 1/2 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper
2 dozen fresh-shucked oysters
1/4 cup oyster liquor *
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chervil or parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
* Cleaning oyster liquor: To get the grit out, first lift the oysters
from their
liquor and set them aside. Then pour the liquor through a
paper-towel-
lined
sieve into a measuring cup.
1. Put 1 inch of water in a large saucepan. Add the
cauliflower, cover the
pan, and steam over high heat until tender, about 10
minutes.
2. Transfer the cauliflower to a food processor or blender and purée with
1/2 cup of the milk. Put the purée back into the saucepan. Whisk in
the
remaining 2 cups milk and the cream. Cook over moderate heat,
whisking,
until very hot, about 3 minutes. Don’t let the mixture boil.
Season with 1/4
teaspoon of the turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4
teaspoon pepper.
3. Add the oysters and the liquor and cook, stirring frequently, until just
heated through, about 3 minutes. Don’t let the mixture boil, or the
oysters
will become tough. Taste and add more salt and pepper if
needed. Serve
the
stew sprinkled with the chervil, chives, and the
remaining 1/4
teaspoon
turmeric.
- Susan Hermann Loomis
Roast East Hampton Golden Goose
“The long, slow-cooking recommended here is your best bet for a
tender
goose.
Be sure to reserve the goose liver to add to the stuffing.”
Wine Recommendation: The flavors of the stuffing pair nicely with a
fruity
red.
Try a pinot-noir-based wine from the Cote Chalonnaise in
France,
such as a
Givry or Montagny.
Serves 8
One 12- to 14-pound goose with giblets, at room
temperature,
excess fat removed and reserved
1 lemon, cut in half
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper
Apricot Walnut Stuffing (recipe follows)
1/4 pound butter, melted
3/4 cup chicken stock, or canned
low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons arrowroot or cornstarch
2 tablespoons cold water, chicken stock,
or canned low-sodium chicken broth
1. Heat the oven to 550 degrees F. Reserve the goose liver
for the stuffing. Rub the skin and cavity of the goose with the cut lemon.
Season inside
and out with salt and pepper. Prick the skin around the legs
and wings
with a fork.
2. Loosely fill the cavity of the goose with stuffing. Close the cavity with
metal skewers or wooden toothpicks. Twist the wings behind the bird
and
tie
the legs together. Brush with the melted butter.
3. Put the goose, breast-side down, on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast
for
30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 300 degrees F and
continue to
roast, basting frequently with the pan juices and pricking
the skin often
with
a fork to release the fat.
4. After 2 hours, turn the goose breast-side up. Cover the breast with
slices
of the reserved fat, pressing the pieces together into a sheet to
cover
the breast. Roast until the joints move readily and the meat feels
soft,
about 1 hour longer. The juices will run clear when the thigh is
pricked
with a fork.
5. Remove the crusty pieces of fat from the breast and increase the oven
temperature to 450 degrees F. Roast the goose until the skin is golden and
crisp. Transfer the goose to a serving platter and leave in a warm spot for
about 15 minutes.
6. Pour the pan juices into a large bowl. Remove all but 3 tablespoons fat.
Return the pan juices to the roasting pan and set the pan over moderate
heat. Add the Port reserved from the stuffing or 1 cup Port if you’re
using
a different stuffing, and the stock and bring to a boil, scraping
the bottom
of the pan to dislodge any brown bits.
7. In a small bowl, stir together the arrowroot and the cold water. Whisk
the arrowroot mixture into the sauce and boil, whisking constantly,
until
thickened. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste.
Remove the
string
from the goose. Carve the bird and serve with
the stuffing and gravy.
- Pearl Byrd Foster
Apricot Walnut Stuffing
“Fruit-and-nut stuffings taste especially good with goose, but don’t
miss
out on
this one if you’re serving a different bird. It’s also good
with turkey,
duck,
chicken or capon.”
Makes
about 6 cups
1/2 pound dried apricots or pitted prunes
1/2 cup raisins
1 cup Port
1 lemon, cut into thin slices
4 tablespoons butter, melted
1 goose liver or liver from whatever bird you’re stuffing
1 onion, chopped
1 tart apple, such as Granny Smith, cored and chopped
1 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 teaspoon ground mace
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 cup minced celery, including leaves
2 cups cubed good-quality white or whole-wheat bread
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper
1. Soak the apricots and raisins in the Port overnight.
2. In a large stainless-steel saucepan, combine the apricots, raisins, Port
and lemon slices. Simmer until almost tender, about 5 minutes. Drain.
(Reserve the liquid if you are making the Roast East Hampton Golden
Goose.)
Chop the drained fruit and transfer to a large bowl.
3. In a medium frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and cook the
liver until firm, about 2 minutes. Chop the liver and add it to the fruit.
4. Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan. Add the onion and cook over
moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5
minutes. Transfer to the bowl along with the apple, walnuts, and mace.
Toss
with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, the lemon juice, celery,
and bread
cubes. Season the stuffing with salt and pepper to taste.
- Pearl Byrd Foster
Continue to page
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