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La Belle Cuisine
Fabulous Foie Gras
Recipe
Source (unless otherwise indicated):
 
Saveur Cooks
Authentic French
By the Editors of Saveur , 1999, Chronicle Books
 
“The 19th
century English cleric Sydney Smith once proposed that heaven was
‘eating…foie gras to the sound of trumpets’. For me, you could hold the
trumpets.
It’s my madeleine. Along with Romanesque cathedrals, foie gras was
my first big discovery when I went to France as a kid. I never take a single
silken bite without thinking back to the early 1950s, when I was so
memorably disabused of my belief that all liver came from calves and all
cathedrals were Gothic. Foie gras makes
me feel young again, in other words.
And it makes me feel, in the immortal words
of
Bob Strauss, the Texas
politico, like ‘a rich sumbitch’. People have been nuts
about foie gras
(it’s pronounced ‘fwah grah’ and literally means ‘fat liver’) since
antiquity. Egyptian paintings from 2500 B.C. show farmers holding geese by
the
neck and
force-feeding them balls of grain. The Romans fed their geese
figs, to
obtain what they called iecur ficatum, or liver with figs;
so closely was this fruit
identified with this organ, in fact, that the
modern Italian word for liver, fegato,
derives from the Latin word
for fig. Even the French don’t argue that foie gras is
the most easily
digestible thing in the world. Don’t eat too much of it, I’d advise,
and
certainly
don’t eat it too late at night. On the other hand, it is said that
Bismarck used to
drink a glass of milk and eat a slice of foie gras to cure
his
insomnia. No wonder
they called him the Iron Chancellor.”
- R.
W. Apple. Jr.
“Liver Lore”
“The French grade and classify foie gras, whether of duck or goose,
with a
manic fervor that defies comprehension by foreign infidels. [In other
words,
they are passionate about their foie gras!] Here are brief
definitions of a few
of the more important terms for the foie-gras buyer to
understand”:
Foie Gras Frais: Fresh raw liver. You buy it, take it home, and cook
it right
away. This is what the chefs of the great restaurants start with,
and what
you
will need for the terrine recipe [following].
Foie Gras Entier: This is the same as a terrine made with an entire
lobe. At
home, serve this as an appetizer with toasted brioche (for a little
sweetness)
or rustic sourdough and a glass of sauternes or port or other
sweet wine.
Bloc or Mousse de Foie Gras: Reconstituted from smaller pieces or
trimmings of foie gras (or lower-grade foie gras) and puréed. Serve on
toasted bread to accompany an aperitif of sweet wine.
Pâté de Foie Gras: Often includes pork or chicken livers, pork fat,
and/or
puréed pork or ham, as well as scraps of duck or goose livers. Great
in a
baguette sandwich with a glass of red wine, but it’s more pâté than
foie gras.
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Terrine de Foie Gras
Serves 10
“This opulent terrine, whose secrets we learned from chef Christian
Guillut of
Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, is one of the simplest but most
memorable classics
of French cuisine.”
1 fresh duck foie gras (about 1 1/2 pounds),
room temperature
1/3 cup good-quality sauternes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 fresh black truffle, wiped clean and
finely chopped (optional)
1. Starting with whole lobes of foie gras [Saveur Cooks
Authentic French includes illustrations], pull any bits of translucent
membrane from the surface of the foie gras and separate the two lobes, using
a knife to
sever any connecting veins. Probe for the main vein and its
branches
with your fingers, pulling it out as you follow its length. Inspect
the
folds for patches of bitter green bile and, if found, extract them with
a knife. Slice off any bruises. Put foie gras in a nonreactive bowl
with water to cover and plenty of ice cubes. Soak overnight in the
refrigerator.
2. Drain foie gras and pat dry with paper towels, then break
into even pieces. Put into a medium bowl or baking dish and drizzle
sauternes
over top. Season with salt and pepper and allow to marinate for 2
hours.
3. Preheat oven to 200 degrees [F]. Remove foie gras from marinade
and press into a 2 1/2-cup terrine, leaving a bit of space at top. Place
terrine
on 3 folded-over paper towels in the bottom of a deep ovenproof
skillet
(to steady terrine), and fill pan with hot water to reach halfway up
sides
of terrine. Place in the oven and cook until internal temperature of
foie
gras reaches 115 degrees [F] on a meat thermometer, about 30 minutes.
Pour off
and reserve fat. Set terrine aside to cool.
4. Cut a piece of cardboard to fit inside top of terrine and
wrap it in plastic. Gently press cardboard onto foie gras and weight with a
small can for 1 hour. Remove can and cardboard, return reserved fat to
terrine, cover
and refrigerate 1–2 days.
5. To unmold, dip terrine in a bowl of warm water for 30
seconds, run a knife along edges and invert onto a plate. (Reserve fat in
terrine.) Serve sliced, garnished with truffle, if you like. If covered in
reserved fat, foie gras will keep, refrigerated, for 1 week.
Foie Gras de Canard Poêlé
aux Raisins
Blancs
(Seared Foie Gras with Green Grapes)
“The freshness of green grapes offsets the richness of the foie gras
in this
dish from Alain Dutournier’s Au Trou Gascon in Paris –
perhaps the
most consistently satisfying outpost of southwestern
French cooking in the
capital.”
1 fresh duck foie gras (about 1 1/2 pounds),
room temperature
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 cups good-quality sauternes
1 clove garlic, crushed and peeled
1 tablespoon ruby port
1/4 cup chicken stock
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespon fine bread crumbs
2 cups large green grapes, halved and seeded
1. Starting with whole lobes of foie gras, pull any bits of
translucent mem- brane from the surface of the foie gras and separate the two
lobes, using
a knife to sever any connecting veins. Probe for the main vein
and
its
branches with your fingers, pulling it out as you follow its length. Inspect
the folds for patches of bitter green bile and, if found, extract
them with
a knife. Slice off any bruises. Rinse foie gras under cold water,
then pat
dry with paper towels. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and
nutmeg.
2. Reduce sauternes in a medium saucepan over medium heat
for about
20 minutes, to about 1/2 cup. Then set aside.
3. Preheat oven to 400 degrees [F]. Rub a large cast-iron skillet
with garlic clove, then sear foie gras over high heat until nicely browned
and crisp
on the outside, about 2 minutes on each side. Remove foie gras and
set
aside. Pour off fat and reserve for another use.
4. Deglaze skillet with port, stock, and reduced sauternes.
Add sugar,
bread crumbs, grapes, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook over
high
heat
3 minutes. Return foie gras to skillet and place in oven 10 - 12
minutes,
until interior is pinkish beige or reaches 120 degrees [F] on
a meat
thermometer. Serve thinly sliced, with sauce and grapes.
Caramelized Onion and Foie Gras
Bread Pudding
Prime Time Emeril:
More TV Dinners from
America's Favorite Chef
By Emeril Lagasse, 2001, William Morrow & Co.
6
ounces fresh foie gras
4 large eggs
3 cups heavy cream
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
4 cups 1-inch cubes day-old French
bread (about half of a large loaf)
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter
3 cups thinly sliced yellow onions
2 teaspoons minced garlic
Cut the
foie gras into 1/2-inch cubes. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate
until
ready to use.
Whisk
the eggs and cream in a large mixing bowl. Add 1 1/4 teaspoons of
the salt,
the pepper, and nutmeg and whisk to blend. Add the bread cubes
and press
them down to submerge them in the mixture. Let stand until the bread absorbs
most of the liquid, about 1 hour.
Preheat
the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter an 11 x 7 x 2-inch baking dish
with 1 teaspoon of
the butter and set aside.
Unwrap
the foie gras and season with 1/8 teaspoon of the salt. Heat a large skillet
over medium-high heat. Add the foie gras and cook, turning often,
until just
seared, no more than 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer
to
a platter.
Add the
onions to the fat in the hot skillet and season with the remaining
1/8
teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until deeply golden, about 10
minutes. Add the garlic and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove
the pan from the heat and let cool until the onions are lukewarm, about
10
minutes.
Stir
the foie gras and onions into the bread and cream mixture. Pour into
the
prepared baking dish. Cut the remaining 2 tablespoons butter into thin
slivers and dot the top of the bread pudding with it.
Bake,
uncovered, until golden brown and a knife inserted into the center
comes out
clean, about 1 hour. Scoop onto plates to serve.
Yield:
8 to 10 servings
Featured Archive Recipes:
Foie Gras with Apple Purée and Hazelnuts
Blanc de Foie Gras aux Huitres
(Custard of Foie Gras and Oysters)
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