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Catalan Tuna Daube

 

 

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Catalan Tuna Daube

Patricia Wells at Home in Provence: Recipes Inspired by Her Farmhouse in France
Patricia Wells at Home in Provence:
Recipes Inspired by Her Farmhouse in France

by Patricia Wells, 1996, Scribner

“Tuna is often called the pot roast of the sea since it takes so well to long, slow cooking, a method that beautifully tenderizes its meaty fish. This version – a
daube that simmers slowly in the oven – takes advantage of may ingredients
that combine to make a dish of very intense, complex flavors. In this dish
which I first sampled in Spain, black peppercorns are crushed with garlic,
then accented by hints of lemon, anchovy, garlic and caper. I also enjoy the
grassy flavors that green bell peppers impart. Due to the popularity of red
bell peppers, green peppers have been mistakenly eclipsed in the modern
kitchen. Lemon, tomatoes, and wine all work their magic in tenderizing
this meaty, flavorful fish. The tuna is equally delicious the next day,
served cold.”

Six to eight servings

4 flat anchovy fillets in olive oil
4 tablespoons whole milk
1 tablespoon capers
1 medium onion, peeled
4 plump, fresh garlic cloves, peeled and halved
20 whole black peppercorns
Fine sea salt to taste
3 green bell peppers
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds (1 kg) tuna steaks, cut about 2 inches (5 cm) thick
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Grated zest (yellow peel) of 1 lemon, cut in wide strips
Bouquet garni: several parsley stems, celery leaves, and springs of
thyme, wrapped in the green part of a leek and securely fastened
1 1/2 cups (37.5 cl) dry white wine, such as a white Rhône, Riesling,
Aligoté , or Chenin Blanc
1 small can (14 1/2 ounces; 400 g) imported whole plum tomatoes in juice
1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper, or to taste

1. Rinse the anchovies, discarding any visible bones. Pat them dry and
chop finely. Place in a small bowl with the milk and set aside for 15
minutes. Drain, discarding the milk, and set aside.
2. Drain the capers, rinse well, and soak in cold water for 10 minutes.
Drain and set aside.
3. Slice the onion in half lengthwise. Place each half, cut side down,
on a cutting board and cut crosswise into very thin slices.
4. In a mortar, crush the garlic, peppercorns, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt
with a pestle to form a paste. Set aside.
5. Char the skin of the peppers over a gas flame or under the grill. Peel,
seed, and cut into strips, reserving as much juice as possible. Set aside.
6. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C; gas mark 4/5).
7. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over high heat. When the
oil is hot but not smoking, add the tuna, searing over high heat for 2
minutes. Turn the tuna to sear the other side. Season this side generously
with salt and pepper. Transfer the tuna to a platter and season the second
side generously with salt and pepper.
8. In a large unheated ovenproof casserole, combine the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil, the onion, crushed garlic and peppercorns, lemon zest,
and bouquet garni. Toss to coat evenly with oil. Cook over moderate
heat until the onions are soft and the mixture is well blended, about 10 minutes. Add the wine, pouring it all over the surface of the pan. Adjust
the heat to bring the liquid to a gentle simmer and cook, uncovered, until
the alcohol has cooked off, about 7 minutes from the time the liquid comes
to a simmer. Add the seared tuna slices. Add the tomatoes and their juice, cayenne pepper, green peppers and their juice, anchovies and capers.
9. Cover the casserole and place in the center of the oven. Cook until the
tuna is very tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven. Remove and discard the bouquet garni. Remove the pieces of tuna from the casserole
and discard the skin of the tuna. Place a portion of tuna on a warmed
dinner plate and, with a slotted spoon, spoon the solid ingredients over
the tuna. Spoon a bit of the sauce over and around the fish. Serve with steamed rice or baked potatoes.
 

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