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Side shows
Thanksgiving in Acadiana features the main event,
but the side dishes can dazzle the imagination
The
Times-Picayune, New Orleans, LA
Thursday, November 18, 2004
Marcelle Bienvenu
“Thanksgiving in our family is often a movable feast. The place and approx-
imate
time of the meal depend on how large a group is expected and the
schedule of
arrivals and departures for out-of-town family members.
If the entire family is in attendance, there will be more than 30, including
adults
of all ages, babes in arms, toddlers in highchairs as well as teenagers
and
collegians and sometimes guests.
No one's house is large enough to seat everyone at a formal table, so if the
weather cooperates, there is informal dining on patios or in the huge
garage-
like
buildings that accommodate large party barges or recreational
vehicles.
There is
little or no regret that we eat on paper plates or on
lap trays.
And although I've tried to introduce creative menus (stuffed
Cornish hens,
roasted pork loin with apple glaze, or
prime rib), the menu remains, more
or less,
the same --
baked turkey,
stuffed pork roast,
baked ham with pineapple
glaze, rice dressing, spinach Madeline, some kind of
sweet potato dish, two to
three vegetable casseroles,
French bread,
dinner rolls and an assortment of
pies
and cakes.
The only variations might include the addition of oysters or
eggplant to
the
rice dressing, small chicken patties, and corn Creole (my favorite).
Our rituals are not unlike the rest of Acadiana. The men, usually my brothers
Henri Clay and Baby Brother Bruce, do the honors of carving the bird, roast
and
ham. (We still use the same meat platters Mama used years ago.)
Then, once all the sides are put out, someone always exclaims that there is
not
nearly enough room to put everything on one plate. Groan! Better take
two
plates
or make two rounds at the buffet.
Of course, there are usually two or three children who want PLAIN rice
with
butter
- no rice dressing with "things" in it. And it's times like this
when I
wish
turkeys came with more than two drumsticks and two wings
because every
small
child wants one or the other. And we all know that
my sister sneaks away
with
the turkey neck and giblets -- her favorites.
. . . . . . .
Brother Henri will not sit down to Thanksgiving dinner unless there's a
large
casserole of this on the buffet table. It's from "River Road Recipes,"
first
published in 1959 by the Junior League of Baton Rouge. I must mention
that
the
original recipe called for a 6-ounce roll of jalapeno cheese, which has
been
discontinued. I have been substituting a 6-ounce roll of garlic cheese.
However,
you can try using
6 to 8 ounces of processed cheese, plus one seeded
and chopped
jalapeno pepper,
or an 8-ounce jar of jalapeno cheese.”
Spinach Madeline
Makes about 8
servings
2
packages frozen chopped spinach
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons chopped onions
1/2 cup evaporated milk
1/2 cup vegetable liquid
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3/4 teaspoon celery salt
3/4 teaspoon garlic salt
Salt to taste
One 6-ounce roll garlic cheese, cut into small pieces
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Cayenne to taste
Buttered bread crumbs (optional)
Coat a casserole dish with nonstick spray, and preheat oven to 350
degrees F.
Cook the spinach according to package directions. Drain and reserve
the
liquid from the pot. Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat.
Add the
flour, stirring until blended and smooth, but not brown. Add
the onions and cook
until soft but not brown. Add the milk and one-
half cup of the reserved liquid
from the spinach pot. Stir constantly
to avoid any lumps. Cook,
stirring, until smooth and thick. Add the
seasonings and cheese and stir
until
the cheese is completely melted.
Pour into the casserole dish and top with buttered bread crumbs.
Bake
until
bubbly, about 30 minutes. Serve warm.
. . . . . . .
"Mama and I favored this cabbage dish, which we served not only for
Thanksgiving, but also for Christmas and New Year's."
Glorified Cabbage
Makes about 8
servings
1
medium-size head green cabbage, cut in half
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium-size yellow onions, chopped
3 ribs celery, chopped
1 medium-size green bell pepper, chopped
1/2 pint heavy cream
1 stick butter
4 slices white bread, toasted and trimmed,
moistened with 2 to 3 tablespoons milk
Salt and cayenne to taste
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 pound American or cheddar cheese, grated
3/4 cup dried fine bread crumbs
Cook the cabbage in boiling salted water until just tender. Remove
from
the heat
and drain. When slightly cooled, finely chop.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions,
celery
and bell pepper. Cook, stirring often, until soft and golden,
five to
six
minutes. Add the cabbage and cook, stirring often, until
soft, about
10 minutes.
Add the cream, butter, and the toasted bread crumbs and stir until
the
butter
is completely melted. Season with salt and cayenne. Add
the
parsley and garlic.
Mix well. Pour the mixture into a large casserole.
Combine the cheese and bread crumbs and sprinkle evenly over the top.
Bake at 350 degrees until heated through, about 30 minutes.
Cauliflower Casserole
Makes 8 servings
1
large head of cauliflower
1/4 cup chopped green bell pepper
4 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
2 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup shredded Swiss cheese
2 tablespoons chopped pimento
Break the cauliflower into flowerets. Cook in boiling salted water just
until
slightly tender, about eight minutes. Drain and set aside.
Cook the bell peppers in the butter until tender. Blend in the flour and
gradually stir in the milk. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat
until
the mixture is thick and smooth. Add the salt, cheese and pimento.
Place half of the cauliflower in a lightly buttered casserole. Cover with
half
of the sauce. Add the remaining cauliflower and top with the
remaining
sauce.
Bake for 15 minutes at 325 degrees.
. . . . . . .
"Tired of the same old, same old candied yams? This recipe can be doubled,
but
not tripled. If you have to make a large amount, make two batches of a
double
recipe."
Sweet Potato Pone
Makes about 6
servings
1
egg
1 cup sugar
1 stick (8 tablespoons) butter, softened
2 cups grated raw sweet potatoes
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
1 cup chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Beat the egg with the sugar and softened butter until the mixture is
slightly
fluffy. Add the sweet potatoes, salt and milk and mix well.
Pour the mixture
into a buttered casserole and bake for 30 minutes.
Sprinkle the top with the
chopped pecans and return to the oven.
Bake for 30 minutes longer, or until the
mixture sets. Serve warm.
. . . . . . .
"My sister and I fight over the last crumbs in the baking dish."
Corn Creole
Makes about 6
servings
3
tablespoons vegetable oil or bacon drippings
1 cup chopped yellow onions
1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper
2 cups cream-style corn
1 large egg, beaten
2 cups milk
1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
Salt and cayenne to taste
Fine dried bread crumbs
Butter
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat the oil or bacon drippings in a
large,
heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onions and bell peppers,
and cook, stirring,
for about four minutes, or until soft and lightly golden.
Add the corn, the egg and the milk. Cook, stirring occasionally, for five
minutes. Add the cornmeal and stir until the mixture thickens. Season
with
salt and cayenne and pour into a lightly oiled baking dish. Sprinkle
the top
with bread crumbs and dot with butter. Bake for about 30
minutes, or until
bubbly and hot.
Lagniappe... Marcelle's Ambrosia
Cake!
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