Summer Vegetables
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La Belle Cuisine -
More Vegetable Recipes
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"To cook is to
create. And to create well...is an act of integrity, and faith."
Green Beans the Way My
Mother Made Them
"What
was paradise, but a garden full of vegetables and herbs and pleasure?
Nothing there but delights."
~
William Lawson
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Paquet de Persil
Kruskamp, Janet
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Passageway in Provence
Duvall, J.
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Green Beans the Way My Mother Made Them
Cooking with Herbs: The Flavor of Provence
By Michel
Biehn, English translation by Josephine Bacon © 2001 Flammarion Inc.
“This is one of those perfectly simple family recipes that is so easy to
make,
it never shows up in a cookbook. Yet it is so delicious that I strongly
advise
you to hurry up and try it.”
Preparation: Top and tail 2 1/4 pounds (1 kg) of freshly picked firm and
crisp green beans. String them if necessary, then wash and drain. Bring
three quarts (3 liters) of water to a boil in a big pot. Add a handful of
coarse salt and three or four large onions, skinned and diced – but not too
finely. Boil the onions for at least 15 minutes before adding the beans.
What makes this dish so delicious is the contrast between the nearly melted
onion and the firm almost al dente green beans. Cook the beans for about 10
minutes, depending on their size. Taste them and if they are cooked but
still firm, pour the contents of the pot into a colander. Leave to drain.
Arrange
the onions and beans in a serving platter. Dot with fresh butter
or sprinkle with olive oil – both are delicious in their own way. Add the
juice of half a lemon and a good handful of freshly picked, finely-chopped
flat-leafed parsley.
Parsley
“Parsley
comes with flat or curly leaves. I shall only discuss the former, since it
is infinitely tastier. For me, the latter is inseparably linked with the
sinister and far-too-small pat of butter – wrapped in gold-colored paper
and inflexible from having spent too much time in the refrigerator –
surrounded by three black olives and used to ‘garnish’ a vast array of
cold cuts, spread out on a stainless-steel Louis XV platter.
In the wild, flat-leafed parsley bears a dangerous resemblance to another
umbelliferous plant – hemlock. However, it is widely cultivated and sold
everywhere, so you need not take the risk of picking the wrong plant while
out for a walk. Parsley is well-known for its tonic, blood-purifying
properties, its ability to reduce fever and increase blood flow; it is
less well-known as a remedy for wasp- and bee-stings. Just crush a leaf
between your fingers and apply the juice to the sting.
Parsley is a remarkable condiment that is used almost everywhere in the
world. My mother never served a dish of vegetables, such as green beans,
or a tomato salad, without generously sprinkling it, just before serving,
with lots of chopped, flat-leafed parsley. And it was always my job to
chop the parsley into a little mustard glass, using large kitchen scissors
that my tiny child’s hands had difficulty in manipulating.”
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