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La Belle Cuisine
Okay. Here is my question: If Paul Prudhomme created Gumbo
does it not seem strange that I cannot find it
in one of HIS cook
Hmmmm. Perhaps it is what is called "Chicken and
Smoked Sausage Gumbo" in "Louisiana Kitchen".
In any case, I have always associated the dish with Mr. B's Bistro (one of my favorite restaurants in the universe).
Chef Paul was, of course, the "corporate
chef for the Brennan family" prior to opening his own restaurant. And it is
note that this particular
gumbo is au
courant enough to have
which was published in 2000...
This just adds more fuel to the fire for one of my favorite controversies:
Whose recipe is whose, anyway? A recipe is a living thing, never static. It
evolves, does it not? This topic is bound to show up in
The Spice Cabinet
one of these months.
Gumbo Ya Ya
Every Day's a Party:
Louisiana Recipes for Celebrating
with Family and Friends
by Emeril Lagasse with Marcelle Bienvenu and
1999, William Morrow and Co., Inc.
“The term ‘Gumbo Ya Ya’ loosely translates to
‘everybody talking at once’ and refers to the mélange of people – French,
Spanish, Indian, Acadian, and African-American – who settled in the bayou
country of Louisiana and in and around
New Orleans, and their various
traditions, which melded together to form what
is now a unique community.
Gumbo is the quintessential dish of the state. It is made with a roux and
includes meats like fowl, game, sausage and seafood. Gumbo is also the
Africa-American word for okra, which is often added to the pot for
When the Brennan family opened Mr. B’s Bistro in the French Quarter,
Ya Ya appeared on the first menu. Created by Chef Paul Prudhomme, it was
rich, thick gumbo, intensely flavored with smoky andouille sausage, and I
must admit it is one of my favorite versions of the local dish. This is my
of the gumbo. The secret is to make the stock with a big hen,
then take the meat
off the bones and add it to the gumbo with sausage.”
Makes 8 to 10 servings
(about 6 pounds)
8 cups water
2 medium-size yellow onions, quartered
2 ribs celery, each cut into 6 pieces
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
1 1/2 cups bleached all-purpose flour
2 cups chopped yellow onions
1 cup chopped green bell peppers
1 cup chopped celery
1/2 pound andouille or other smoked sausage,
finely chopped, plus
smoked sausage, cut crosswise
into 1/4-inch-thick slices
2 tablespoons chopped green onions or
scallions (green part only)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
hen, water, quartered onions, celery pieces, bay leaves, 1 table-
spoon of the
salt, and 1 teaspoon of the cayenne in a large, heavy pot.
Bring to a boil
over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and cook,
until the hen is tender, about 2 hours. Remove the
and reserve the broth.
In a large, heavy pot or a Dutch oven over medium heat, combine the
and flour. Stirring slowly and constantly, make a dark brown roux,
of chocolate, 20 to 25 minutes. Add the chopped onions, bell
chopped celery, and chopped sausage. Cook, stirring, until the
are very soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the reserved broth and stir
until the roux mixture and broth are well combined. Bring to a boil, then
heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 1 1/2
Meanwhile, remove the skin from the hen and pick the meat off the
discarding the skin and bones. Coarsely chop the chicken meat.
chicken and the sliced sausage to the gumbo. Cook for 15 min-
from the heat and let sit for 5 minutes before skimming
off the fat that has
risen to the surface.
Stir in the green onions and parsley and serve the gumbo in individual
or gumbo bowls.
Gumbo Ya Ya
Take Home the True Taste
of New Orleans with More
than 150 Recipes from
Commander's Palace Restaurant
by Ty Adelaide Martin and Jamie Shannon
2000, Broadway Books, a division of Random House, Inc.
“Gumbo Ya Ya led to the reemergence of many classic non-seafood gumbos
had long been overlooked in fine dining establishments. All of a sud-
gumbos once eaten only at home began appearing in restaurants all
– duck and wild mushroom gumbo, rabbit gumbo, quail gumbo,
andouille gumbo, and so on.”
Makes about 4 quarts, enough for 12 entrée servings
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3/4 cup all-purpose flour, sifted,
plus extra for dusting
3/4 cup vegetable oil (or any oil with
a high smoking point)
3 large onions, in medium dice
7 stalks celery, in medium dice
4 bell peppers, in medium dice
12 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
Pinch of dried oregano
Pinch of dried basil
Pinch of dried thyme
4 bay leaves
2 1/2 quarts cold water
1 1/2 pounds andouille sausage or
other smoked sausage,
sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 tablespoon filé powder
1 tablespoon hot sauce, or to taste
3 green onions, thinly sliced
chicken with salt and pepper, and dust it with flour. Shake
Heat the oil in a large, heavy, dry pot over high heat until it reaches its
smoking point, about 3 minutes. Sear the chicken in the hot oil until it is
golden brown, about 5 minutes on the first side and 4 minutes on the
Remove the chicken from the pot.
When the oil has returned to the smoking point, make a roux by slowly adding
the flour to the oil, stirring constantly over high heat with a wooden spoon
until the roux is the color of milk chocolate, about 3 to 5 minutes. Scrape
the sides and bottom of the pot as you stir. Be careful not to burn
roux; if black spots appear, you will need to start over.
When the roux has reached the desired color, add the onions and cook for
minute. Add the celery and cook for 30 seconds. Add the bell peppers, scrape
the bottom of the pot, and cook for 1 minute. Add the garlic, cay-
oregano, basil, thyme, and bay leaves, and season with more salt
Slowly add the water, stirring constantly to avoid lumps of
Add the chicken and the sausage, stir, bring to a boil, then simmer
2 1/2 hours, skimming away any excess fat from the surface of
gumbo. When the meat falls off the bones, remove the skin and bones
pot. If necessary to get the liquid to the desired consistency, add
simmer to reduce.
Return to a boil and stir in filé. Stir vigorously
to avoid clumping until
the filé is dissolved. Adjust the salt and pepper,
and finish with hot sauce
Serve over boiled rice and garnish with green onions.
Chef Jamie’s Tips: Oil is released from the roux and the sausage, so
skimming excess fat from the gumbo is important.
Some people like thick gumbo, while others prefer it thin, so adjust to
desired consistency. Or me, it depends on the weather. I like it thick
colder weather and thinner in the warmer months.
Featured Archive Recipes:
Mr. B's Gumbo
Chicken, Oyster and Andouille Gumbo
Paul Prudhomme's Chicken and
Index - Soup Recipe Archives
Basic Stock Recipes
Do you know what it means
to miss New Orleans?
Recipe Archives Index