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Grilled Soft-Shell
Crabs with Braised Scallions, Broccoli Rabe, and Dried Tomato Pesto
“Al tavolo non s’invecchia mai. (At the table one never gets old.)”
~
Mario Batali, in "The Babbo Cookbook"
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Molto Italiano: 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home
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A Silhouetted Boat Fishing for Soft Crabs
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Madden, Robert
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La Belle Cuisine
Grilled Soft-Shell
Crabs with Braised Scallions, Broccoli Rabe, and Dried Tomato Pesto
Mario Batali Simple Italian Food: Recipes from My Two Villages
by Mario Batali, 1998, Clarkson N. Potter, Inc.
Serves 4
“Blue crabs caught between May
and September [earlier in some areas of the country] that have shed their
hard shells in the annual effort to further their
growth process are known
as soft-shell crabs. Avoid leathery tough-skinned crabs and certainly the
dead or seemingly asleep, selecting lively, energetic crustaceans with soft
pliable skin that is flexible even along the outer edges and with all ten
legs intact. To clean them use sharp scissors to snip off the eyes, mouth,
and facial features, and pull away the cartilaginous tail piece shaped like
the underside of a turtle, beneath the abdomen in the back. Many remove the
gills but I find them delicious and leave them in. Always clean soft-shell
crabs immediately prior to cooking and cook until well done, as some
crustacean harbor bacteria that can cause gastrointestinal problems – even
death – if not fully cooked.
”Choose medium-size softies for this dish and always check to be sure that
they
are not leathery before you buy them. Some weeks are better than others
for
these farm-raised delicacies, so always buy from a fishmonger with whom
you
have developed a relationship – it really makes a difference.”
8 ounces broccoli rabe,
trimmed
3 tablespoons
extra-virgin olive oil
24 scallions or spring
onions,
root ends trimmed
1/2 cup sweet vermouth
Salt and pepper
12 prime, medium
soft-shell crabs
1/2 cup Dried Tomato
Pesto
[recipe follows]
Bring about 3 quarts of
water to a boil in a large saucepan, and prepare an
ice bath.
Drop the broccoli rabe
in the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes; drain,
then plunge into the ice
bath to refresh. Remove the florets from the broc-
coli rabe and cut the stems
and leaves into 1-inch pieces.
In a 10- to 12-inch
sauté pan, heat the olive oil until just smoking. Add
the scallions and cook
2 minutes, stirring often, until just wilted. Add the
broccoli rabe and
vermouth and continue cooking 2 to 3 minutes, until the
scallions are quite
soft. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside and cool
to room temperature.
Preheat the grill or
broiler.
Clean the soft-shell
crabs [see above]. Grill the crabs until crisp and bright red, about 5
minutes on each side.
Divide the rabe mixture
among 4 plates. Place 3 crabs on each plate, drizzle
2 tablespoons of the
pesto around each serving, and serve immediately.
Dried Tomato Pesto
1/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes, soaked in
boiling water for 10
minutes
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
In a blender, puree the tomatoes, their liquid, and the
remaining
pesto ingredients until smooth, about 1 minute. Remove from the
blender and
set aside. Makes 1 cup.
More from Chef Mario:
Antipasti from Mario Batali's "Simple Italian Food"
At Home Comfort Food
Grilled Shrimp with White Beans, Rosemary, Mâche, and Mint Oil (Mario Batali)
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