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Tuna-Crab Roll and Tuna "Tartare"
with Avocado, Crushed
Black Sesame Seed
Vinaigrette, and
Coriander Juice
 
Charlie Trotter's Seafood
by Charlie Trotter, 1997, Ten Speed Press
“The
tuna-crab roll in this playful dish is meant to emulate a maki roll. The
"tartare"
is simply a large dice of tuna strewn about the plate. Avocado is
used to
add richness, and pea sprouts add an important textural contrast
to the soft
crab and fleshy tuna. The vinaigrette has a little spiciness, which
is
refreshing against the rich seafood, and the Coriander Juice perfectly
cuts
into all of the flavors, weaving the varied components together.”
Serves 4
1/2 cup thinly sliced papaya
1/2 cup Pickling Juice (recipe follows)
3 ounces peekytoe crabmeat
2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice
Salt and pepper
2 thin slices raw tuna (7 by 3-1/2 inches)
1 tablespoon chopped black sesame seeds
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1-1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1 teaspoon tamari
1-1/2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons Spicy Vinegar (recipe follows)
1/3 cup diced raw tuna
1/3 cup diced avocado
1/4 cup snow pea sprouts
Coriander Juice (recipe follows)
Method - Place the sliced papaya and Pickling Juice in a small
container
and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. Strain and coarsely chop the
papaya.
Place the papaya, crabmeat, chives, and 1 tablespoon of the lime
juice in
a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Lay the tuna
slices on
top of separate pieces of plastic wrap and season with salt and
pepper.
Place some of the crab salad along the 7-inch side of the tuna and
carefully
roll up the tuna, peeling back the plastic wrap as you go. Tighten
the tuna-
crab roll by carefully wrapping it in the plastic wrap and gently
pulling the plastic tight. Refrigerate until ready to use. Repeat this
process with the remaining tuna and crab salad.
Cut one tuna-crab roll into four 1-1/2-inch-long pieces, and
cut the remaining roll into four 1-1/2 -inch-long pieces on the bias. Remove
the plastic wrap.
Whisk together the sesame seeds, sesame oil, orange juice,
tamari, rice
wine vinegar, and Spicy Vinegar in a small bowl and season to
taste with
salt and pepper. Toss the diced raw tuna with 2 tablespoons of
the black
sesame seed vinaigrette and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Toss the diced avocado with 1 teaspoon of the lime juice and
season to
taste with salt and pepper.
Snip 4 teaspoons of the snow pea sprouts into small pieces,
keeping the remainder whole.
Assembly - Place 1 straight-cut tuna-crab roll and 1 roll cut
on the bias
in the center of each plate. Place a small amount of the whole
snow pea
sprouts standing upright between the 2 rolls. Arrange some of the
diced
tuna and avocado around the plate. Spoon some of the Coriander Juice
and black sesame seed vinaigrette around the tuna and avocado and
sprinkle
with the snipped snow pea sprouts.
Pickling Juice
Yield: 2 cups
1 cup water
1/2 cup rice vinegar
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 whole clove
1 teaspoon mustard seed
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chopped ginger
1/2 jalapeño, seeded and chopped
Method - Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan and
bring to
a simmer, allowing the salt and sugar to dissolve. Cool and use as
needed.
Spicy Vinegar
Yield: about 3 cups
10 jalapeño peppers
10 red chile peppers
1 Spanish onion, julienned
2 cups sliced carrots
1/2 cup thyme sprigs
5 cloves
1 teaspoon allspice
Rice wine vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
Method - Place the jalapeño peppers, red chile peppers, onion,
carrots,
thyme, and spices in a jar just large enough to hold the
ingredients. Cover
with the rice wine vinegar and top off with the olive
oil. Seal the jar and
place in the refrigerator for 2 weeks before you break
the seal. The vinegar
can be kept for several months in the refrigerator.
Use as needed.
Coriander Juice
Yield: about 1/2 cup
2 cups tightly packed fresh coriander, blanched
3 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper
Method - Squeeze any excess water from the coriander and place
in a
blender with the water and oils. Purée for 3 to 4 minutes, or until
smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and season to taste with salt and
pepper. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Recommended
Substitutions:
For stuffing: crab, lobster. For wrapping: red snapper, smoked salmon
Wine
Notes:
This fresh preparation adds rich flavors (avocado and sesame) to fresh
seafood.
We find a tropical fruit–style Chardonnay from California or
Australia most
useful. Mer et Soleil is a somewhat pineapple- and
mango-flavored Chardonnay
from Monterey that lets full, ripe fruit stand in
front of oak. Its fullness is
appropriate for the sweet fresh tuna and crab,
and its creaminess adds to the
complex flavors without being cloying. Scotchmans Hill is a striking Australian Chardonnay; it is butterscotchy,
yet without the flabbiness so common in
commercial, or even "show"-style,
Australian Chardonnay.
Featured Archive Recipes:
Charlie Trotter's Lobster en Barigoule
Charlie Trotter's Shrimp Maki Rolls with
Roasted Red Bell Pepper Aioli
Index
- Seafood Recipe Archives
Index - Fish Recipe Archives
Recipe Archives Index
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