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La Belle Cuisine
Seared Pancetta-Wrapped Cod
Patricia Wells at Home in Provence: Recipes Inspired by Her Farmhouse in France
by Patricia Wells, 1996, Scribner
“Inspired
by London chef Alastair Little – who served me a version of this one
winter evening in his London SoHo restaurant – this simple, flavorful
dish can
be prepared in a matter of minutes. Fish fillets are given a
protective wrapping – either pancetta, ham, or bacon – that adds a
touch of needed fat and also helps create a brilliant contrast of color
and texture. The wrapping acts as a second
skin, protecting and imparting
flavor and texture to the final dish. I always keep
a piece of Provençal
‘pancetta’ (peppered rolled pork sold as poitrine roulé) on
hand and
wrap my fish with paper-thin slices – sliced as thin as humanly pos-
sible
without creating pieces of lace! The end result is a lovely blending of
the
land and the sea, the crunchy and the soft, a splash of red, white,
and green.”
Four
servings
4 codfish fillets,
each about 6 ounces (180 g)
or
substitute monkfish, tilefish, grouper,
or striped bass
4
very thin slices of pancetta, unsmoked
ham, or unsmoked bacon
3
tablespoons capers
6
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2
tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Freshly
ground black pepper to taste
Fresh
parsley leaves, snipped
with a scissors, for garnish
1. Wrap the pieces of fish in ham, bacon, or pancetta. Secure with
toothpicks at each end.
2.
Drain the capers, rinse well, and soak in cold water for 10 minutes
to remove excess salt.
3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over
moderately
high heat until hot but not smoking. Sear the wrapped pieces of
fish
for about 3 minutes on each side, or until the fish are firm to the
touch
and offer little resistance when pressed with the fingertip.
4. While the fish is cooking, in a small saucepan combine the drained
capers, the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil, and the lemon juice. Stir
to
blend and warm gently over low heat.
5. Transfer the fish to 4 warmed plates, season very generously with
pepper, and spoon the sauce on top and around the fish. Sprinkle
with
parsley.
Wine
Suggestion: This dish
calls for a rich, dry white wine:
a Rhône Valley white, such as a Châteauneuf
du Pape, or
a California or Australian Chardonnay.
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