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Catalan Bay, Gibraltar
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Pearson, Doug
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Fishing Nets, Port Vendres, Catalan Coast, Roussillon, France
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Gillham, Ken
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La Belle Cuisine
Catalan
Tuna Daube
Patricia Wells at
Home in Provence:
Recipes Inspired by
Her Farmhouse in France
by Patricia Wells, 1996, Scribner
“Tuna
is often called the pot roast of the sea since it takes so well to long,
slow cooking, a method that beautifully tenderizes its meaty fish. This
version – a
daube that simmers slowly in the oven – takes advantage of
many ingredients
that combine to make a dish of very intense, complex
flavors. In this dish
which I first sampled in Spain, black peppercorns
are crushed with garlic,
then accented by hints of lemon, anchovy,
garlic and caper. I also enjoy the
grassy flavors that green bell peppers
impart.
Due to the popularity of red
bell peppers, green peppers have
been
mistakenly eclipsed in the modern
kitchen. Lemon, tomatoes,
and wine all
work their magic in tenderizing
this meaty, flavorful
fish. The tuna is
equally delicious the next day,
served cold.”
Six to eight
servings
4
flat anchovy fillets in olive oil
4
tablespoons whole milk
1
tablespoon capers
1
medium onion, peeled
4
plump, fresh garlic cloves,
peeled and halved
20
whole black peppercorns
Fine
sea salt to taste
3
green bell peppers
6
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2
pounds (1 kg) tuna steaks, cut about
2 inches (5 cm) thick
Freshly
ground black pepper to taste
Grated
zest (yellow peel) of 1 lemon,
cut in wide strips
Bouquet garni:
several parsley stems, celery leaves,
and springs of
thyme, wrapped
in the green part of a leek and
securely fastened
1
1/2 cups (37.5 cl) dry white wine,
such as a white Rhône, Riesling,
Aligoté , or Chenin Blanc
1
small can (14 1/2 ounces; 400 g) imported
whole plum tomatoes in juice
1/2
teaspoon ground cayenne pepper,
or to taste
1. Rinse the anchovies, discarding any visible bones. Pat them dry and
chop finely. Place in a small bowl with the milk and set aside for 15
minutes. Drain, discarding the milk, and set aside.
2. Drain the capers, rinse well, and soak in cold water for 10
minutes.
Drain and set aside.
3. Slice the onion in half lengthwise. Place each half, cut side down,
on a cutting board and cut crosswise into very thin slices.
4. In a mortar, crush the garlic, peppercorns, and 1/2 teaspoon of the
salt
with a pestle to form a paste. Set aside.
5. Char the skin of the peppers over a gas flame or under the grill.
Peel,
seed, and cut into strips, reserving as much juice as possible.
Set
aside.
6.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C; gas mark 4/5).
7.
In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over high heat.
When
the
oil is hot but not smoking, add the tuna, searing over high heat
for 2
minutes. Turn the tuna to sear the other side. Season this side
generously
with salt and pepper. Transfer the tuna to a platter and
season
the second
side generously with salt and pepper.
8. In a large unheated ovenproof casserole, combine the remaining 4
tablespoons of oil, the onion, crushed garlic and peppercorns,
lemon zest,
and bouquet garni. Toss to coat evenly with oil.
Cook over moderate
heat
until the onions are soft and the mix-
ture is well blended, about 10
minutes. Add the wine, pouring it
all over the surface of the pan. Adjust
the heat to bring the liquid
to a gentle simmer and cook, uncovered, until
the alcohol has
cooked off, about 7 minutes from the time the liquid comes
to a
simmer. Add the seared tuna slices. Add the tomatoes and their
juice,
cayenne pepper, green peppers and their juice, anchovies
and capers.
9.
Cover the casserole and place in the center of the oven. Cook until
the
tuna is very tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven.
Remove and
discard the bouquet garni. Remove the pieces of
tuna from the casserole
and discard the skin of the tuna. Place
a portion of tuna on a warmed
dinner
plate and, with a slotted
spoon, spoon the solid ingredients over
the tuna. Spoon a bit of
the sauce over and around the fish. Serve with
steamed riceor
baked potatoes.
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