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Braised
Veal Shanks with Tomato,
White Beans,
and Basil
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The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century
by Amanda Hesser
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Chateau Surrounded by Vines, Burgundy, France
Oliver Strewe
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La Belle Cuisine
Braised
Veal Shanks with Tomato,
White Beans, and Basil
Cook and the Gardener: A Year of Recipes and Writings from the French Countryside
by Amanda Hesser, 1999, W. W. Norton & Co.
"The ancient link between the gardener and the cook
is at the heart of this remarkably evocative cookbook, in which Amanda
Hesser relates the story of
a year she spent as cook in a seventeenth-century château in Burgundy.
Before long, her culinary life becomes inextricably bound to the seasons of
the Yonne River Valley and to Monsieur Milbert, the seemingly impervious,
charmingly sly peasant caretaker of the château's kitchen garden..
"Along with the recipes comes a wealth of practical advice on everything
from storing potatoes to beginning sourdough starter to making cassis.
Essays
celebrate the seasons of the château kitchen garden and relate the growing
friendship between the old gardener and the young cook. As Milbert opens
up to Hesser, the reader glimpses the quirky customs and sensible wisdom of
a vanishing way of life in provincial France."
The Cook and the Gardener is the winner of the
2000 IACP Cookbook Award
in the Literary Food Writing category. No doubt you'll agree the award is
well deserved. It remains one of our all-time
favorite cookbooks.
Serves 4
Beans
3/4 pound frozen fresh beans or
1/2 pound dried white haricot,
cannelloni,
or Great Northern beans
(soaked overnight, if dried)
1 carrot, trimmed, peeled, and cut in half
2 onions, cut in half through the roots
1 head garlic, cut crosswise to expose the cloves
1 bay leaf
4 sprigs thyme
10 black peppercorns
Spring Stock [or other
stock] or
water, to cover
2 tablespoons butter
Coarse or kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Veal
4 veal shanks (about 2 pounds)
Coarse or kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, sliced thin
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup white wine
6 ripe tomatoes, cut in half and seeded
2-3 branches basil, leaves torn
into small pieces
About 3 cups Spring Stock [or other
stock]
or water, more if needed
1. If you are making this dish with dried beans, place them in a bowl,
cover them with water, and soak them overnight. Drain and rinse them,
picking out any bad beans or stones before proceeding with the recipe.
2.
Put the beans in a medium saucepan. Cover with water and bring to a
boil. Drain and rinse the beans once more. Add the beans back to the
pan
along with the carrot, onion, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and pepper-
corns.
Pour stock over the beans, covering them by 4 inches (this
allows room for
evaporation). Place the pan over high heat and bring
to a boil. Reduce the
heat and simmer for 50 to 60 minutes, until the
beans are just tender, not
mushy, yet no longer chalky. Taste one to
see. Drain, and discard the
herbs and vegetables. Stir in the butter and
season the beans with salt
and pepper. You should always season beans
after cooking. If you salt
their cooking liquid, the skins will be tough.
3. Prepare the veal shanks:
Season them with salt and pepper. In a
heavy braising pot or deep
flameproof casserole fitted with a lid, large
enough to
fit the shanks in
one layer, heat the oil over medium-high
heat. Sauté the
veal shanks on
all dies, browning them well, 10 to 15
minutes. Remove
the shanks to a
plate.
4. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the onion and bay leaves. If
you have electric heat, you may want to do this off the heat because
your stove will take a while to cool to a temperature that won’t char
the
onions. Soften them slightly until translucent and wilted, stirring
them
in the oil in the pan, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and stir
vigorously to coat the onion and cook the flour. Pour in the wine and
bring it to a boil. Reduce by half.
5.
Place the veal back in the pot, add the tomatoes and half the
basil, and
pour in the stock until it is about 3/8 inch below the top of
the veal
shanks. Add more stock if necessary. Bring to a low boil, then
reduce
the heat so the liquid is just percolating. Cover and braise the
veal until
it is extremely tender, 1 to 1 1/4 hours.
6. Turn the veal once or twice while braising so it cooks evenly, and
add
the beans when you think the veal is just about done, so they can
ab-
sorb some of the braising liquid and soften a touch more, about 10
minutes. The veal is done
when it appears to be pulling away from
the bone and when the tines of a
fork slide in and out of the meat
without any difficulty. Taste the
braising sauce for seasoning, adding
salt and freshly ground black pepper
as desired. Sprinkle over the
remaining basil.
7.
To serve: Place a veal shank on each of four individual shallow bowls
or plates. Using a slotted spoon, spoon some beans and tomato over the
shanks, then spoon over some sauce. Serve. If you have leftover beans
and
sauce, you can make soup by adding more veal stock and some
blanched green
beans and beet greens.
More from The Cook and the Gardener!
Featured Archive Recipes:
Veal
Braised in the Old-Fashioned Way
(Cul de Veau à la Façon de Grand-Mère)
Veal, Braised, Le Caméléon (Tendrons de Veau)
Veal Shanks, Braised,
Milanese Style -
Ossobuco (Marcella Hazan)
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