Bistro II
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Stapley, Michele
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Tendrons de Veau Le Caméléon
(Braised Veal with Fresh Pasta)

“Standing there I wondered how much of what we felt on the bridge
was just hunger. I asked my wife and she said, ‘I don’t know, Tatie.
There are so many kinds of hunger… memory is hunger.’ “
~ Ernest Hemingway, outside the restaurant Michaud

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Left Bank Bistro
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Botich, George
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Inviting Array of Bistro in St. Germain, Paris,
Ile-De-France, France
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Beanland, Glenn
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Tendrons de Veau Le Caméléon
(Braised Veal with Fresh Pasta)


Bistro Cooking
by Patricia Wells, 1989, Workman Publishing Co., Inc.

“In France, one of the most popular cuts of veal for stewing is ‘tendron’, the
portion of the breast that contains the cartilaginous rib-like portions that
visibly resemble pork spare ribs when cooked. For this recipe, you can choose
from any number of good cuts of stewing veal, including the breast (known in France as ‘poitrine’ or ‘tendron’), the short ribs (‘haut de côtes’), veal shoulder
and shoulder chops (‘épaule’ or ‘côtes découvertes’), and the heel of round or
shank (‘gîte a la noix’ or ‘jarret’). This is one of my favorite bistro dishes (both
to prepare and to eat!) and I order it often when I go to the popular Paris bistro
Le Caméléon. With it, I usually drink the fruity red Saumur-Champigny from
the Loire.”

2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 pounds (1 kg) breast of veal with the bone (ask your butcher to cut
across the lower breast portion to make several strips of equal width)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (25 cl) dry white wine
4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into rounds
2 medium onions, cut into rings
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 imported bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 large can (28 ounces; 794 g) Italian plum tomatoes, with their liquid
1 pound (500 g) fresh fettuccine (obviously you can use dried pasta
here, just don’t expect the result to be quite the same)
Small handful flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

1. Heat the oil in a nonreactive, deep-sided, 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, begin to brown the veal in batches
on both sides; do not crowd the pan. Be patient when browning; good browning is essential for the veal to retain all of its flavor. The meat
should take about 5 minutes to brown each batch. Carefully regulate the
heat to avoid scorching the meat. As each batch is browned, remove
the veal to a platter and season generously with salt and pepper.
2. When all of the veal is browned, pour out the fat from the skillet. Return
all of the meat to the pan. Add the wine, carrots, onions, garlic, bay
leaves, thyme, and tomatoes. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the
heat to low. Cover and simmer until the meat is very tender and the liquid
is transformed into a thick, delicious sauce, about 1 1/2 hours. Keep an
eye on the pan, making sure the liquid remains at a quiet, gentle simmer.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Salt the water,
add the pasta, and cook just until tender. Drain. Place the pasta on a
large, warmed serving platter.
4. Using a flat metal strainer, remove the veal from the pan; place on top of the pasta. Strain the sauce through a sieve. Pour the sauce over the veal. Sprinkle on the parsley. Serve immediately, on warmed dinner plates.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
 

Featured Archive Recipe:
Braised Veal Shanks with Tomato, White Beans, and Basil

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