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La Belle Cuisine
Smoked Salmon Canapés
Kitchen Sessions with Charlie Trotter
by Charlie Trotter, 1999,
Ten Speed Press
“The
following are some of my favorite ways to serve smoked salmon. In this
recipe, I have assembled the canapés as a plated appetizer, but they could
be
served as individual, passed canapés. I think the versatility of this
fish
is amply demonstrated with these preparations. It can stand up to
assertive
Asian flavors
or act as the backdrop to something luxurious like
caviar.
If you want to achieve
a slightly different flavor, smoked sturgeon
could
be substituted in any of these recipes with equally fabulous results.”
Serves 8
1/2 cup crème fraîche [purchased or
make your own]
2 tablespoons water
Salt and pepper
1 ounce caviar
Smoked Salmon Terrine (recipe follows)
1 cup baby cress (or other tiny lettuce or sprouts)
8 teaspoons olive oil (optional)
Smoked Salmon and Avocado Maki Rolls (recipe follows)
Smoked Salmon Tartar on Brioche (recipe follows)
Smoked Salmon Rolls with Hot and Sour Cucumbers
(recipe follows)
Method – To prepare the caviar crème fraîche:
Place
the crème fraîche and water in a small bowl, whisk together until smooth,
and season to taste with pepper. Gently fold in the caviar. Use immediately;
if the mixture stands too long, the caviar breaks down
and the crème fraîche
turns gray.
Assembly – Place a triangle of the salmon terrine
upright on one
corner of each plate and spoon some of the caviar-crème
fraîche
around it. Sprinkle some of the baby cress around the terrine.
Drizzle the terrine with a teaspoon of olive oil if a richer presenta-
tion is
desired. Place a Smoked
Salmon and Avocado Maki Roll
on the opposite corner. Place a Smoked Salmon Tartar on Brioche
and a Smoked Salmon Roll with Hot
and Sour Cucumbers on the
remaining corners of the plate.
Wine Notes
– Canapés are always best with Champagne. Crisp styles
like
Veuve Cliquot
and Pol Roger are perfect, or for a very special
occasion, try
a vintage
Krug. If you prefer a nonsparkling wine, a
Sancerre will be a
great match
for the rich salmon.
Smoked Salmon Rolls with
Hot and Sour
Cucumbers
Assemble
these rolls just prior to serving or the
pickling juice
will cook the
salmon.
Yield: 8 rolls
1 cup Hot and Sour Cucumbers [follows]
8 thin slices smoked salmon
Method – To prepare the salmon rolls:
Drain any liquid from
the cucumbers. Lay the salmon slices on a work surface and place some of the
hot and sour cucumbers in the middle of
one of the slices. Roll up the
salmon slice from one end to the other,
keeping the cucumbers securely
inside. Repeat with
the remaining slices
of salmon and cucumbers.
Hot and Sour Cucumbers
Yield: about 3
cups
"These
cucumbers hold in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
For spicier
cucumbers,
add a minced habañero chile pepper."
2 cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise
1 1/2 bay leaves
1 1/2 cups rice wine vinegar
1 cup sugar
1 jalapeño, chopped
6 ounces thinly sliced red onion
3 ounces thinly sliced fennel
1/2 tablespoon crushed pink peppercorns
Method – Scrape the seeds from the cucumbers, discard
the seeds,
and thinly slice the cucumber. Place the bay leaves, vinegar,
sugar,
and jalapeño in a saucepan and simmer for 5 minutes. Strain and
cool. Combine the cucumbers, onion, fennel, peppercorns, and
cooled vinegar
mixture and refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
Smoked Salmon and Avocado Maki Roll
“You can
easily substitute any other fish or vegetables
for the
salmon
and avocado in
these maki rolls.”
Yield: 8
pieces
1 1/2 cups cooked sushi rice, cooled
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons wasabi powder
1 teaspoon water
2 sheets nori
6 long chives
Four 8-inch-long by 1/4-inch-wide strips smoked salmon
1/2 avocado, peeled and cut into batons
2 tablespoons wasabi tobiko [flying fish roe]
Method – To prepare the maki rolls:
Place the rice in
a medium bowl, add the vinegar and sugar, and mix until thoroughly combined.
Place the wasabi and water in a small cup and stir
until smooth. Lay a sheet
of nori flat on a bamboo maki roller. Place 1/2
cup of the rice on top of
the nori. (Moisten your hands with water before touching the rice to prevent
the rice from sticking to your hands.) Spread
the rice flat, leaving a
2-inch border at the
top of the nori. Spread some of
the wasabi mixture on
top of the rice and
lay 3 of the chives horizontally
in the center of the
rice. Lay two strips of
the smoked salmon and some
of the avocado over the
chives. Using the
maki roller, carefully roll up the nori sheet, creating a
firm, smooth maki
roll. Moisten the 2-inch border
of the nori with water and
press against the roll to create a seal. Set the
maki roll aside and repeat
the process. Trim
the ends of each maki roll,
slice in half, then slice each
of the 4 pieces in
half on the diagonal. Spoon some of the wasabi tabiko
over each maki
roll piece just prior to serving.
Smoked Salmon Terrine
Yield: 1
terrine (8 inches long by 1 1/2 inches wide by 2 1/4 inches high)
“This
terrine can be made the day ahead and
then sliced just prior to serving.”
1/4 cup butter, at room temperature
1 shallot, finely minced
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon lemon zest, finely chopped
Black pepper
1 1/2 pounds thinly sliced smoked salmon,
cut into 1 1/2-inch-wide strips
Method – To prepare the lemon butter:
Place the
butter, shallot, lemon juice, and lemon zest in a small
bowl.
Mix until
smooth and season with pepper.
To prepare the terrine: Line an 8-inch long by 1 1/2-inch wise by
2
1/4-inch high terrine mold with plastic wrap. Place a layer of the
smoked
salmon on the bottom of the mold and spread with a very
thin layer of the
lemon butter. Continue to layer the salmon and butter
until all of the
salmon is used. Cover the terrine with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at
least 2 hours. Leaving the plastic wrap on, slice the
terrine into
1/2-inch-thick slices. Carefully remove the plastic wrap
and cut each slice
in half
on the diagonal.
Smoked Salmon Tartar on Brioche
Yield: 8
pieces
“The
brioche can be toasted earlier in the day but the capers
should
not
be added
to the tartar until you are ready to use it.”
1/2 cup finely diced smoked salmon
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil
1 tablespoon chopped capers
1 tablespoon chopped shallots
2 teaspoons olive oil
Black pepper
8 thin 1-inch squares toasted Brioche [recipe included
in cookbook,
or
substitute the crouton of your choice]
Method – To prepare the salmon: Place the smoked
salmon, chervil,
capers, shallots, and olive oil in a small bowl and mix
thoroughly. Season
to taste with the freshly ground black pepper. Place some
of the smoked salmon tartar on each piece of toasted Brioche (or any type of
crouton)
just prior
to serving.
Featured
Archive Recipe:
Charlie Trotter's Shrimp Maki Rolls
Warm Shellfish and Asian Vegetables with
Spicy Ginger-Lime Dressing
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