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"New Orleans food is as
delicious as
the less criminal forms of sin."
~ Mark Twain, 1884
La Belle Cuisine
Commander's Kitchen: Take Home the True Taste of New Orleans with More than 150 Recipes from Commander's Palace Restaurant
by Ty Adelaide Martin and Jamie Shannon
2000, Broadway Books, a division of Random House, Inc.
In our opinion, this new cookbook is a definite "must have". Not only
is
it chock full of the excellent recipes we've come to expect from the world-
renowned
Brennan clan of New Orleans, but it also offers a marvelous
collection of
"Lagniappe" tidbits of information and anecdotes.
From the Introduction...
"New Orleans cooking is like jazz. The world is
fascinated by the possibilities
that can result when good jazz musicians sit together and
'make music'. So it is
with our cooking. When people who care deeply about food use the
ingredients
and techniques of the entire history of New Orleans cooking, the possibilities
are endless."
Amen!
Side
Dishes and Veggies
Honey-Roasted Mashed
Opelousas
Sweet Potatoes
"Roasting sweet potatoes (or
yams) intensifies their earthy, sweet flavor. Boiling them, as is so often
done, extracts much of their flavor into the water. Opelousas Sweet Potatoes
are just too good to be boiled. So we make sweet potato pie, sweet potato
hay, and sweet potato succotash, but this one, roasted with honey and
butter
and whipped is my favorite. Opelousas is in southwestern Louisiana."
Makes about 8 side-dish servings
6 sweet potatoes, about 1 pound each
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, diced
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup honey
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Peel and quarter the sweet potatoes and place them in a roasting pan.
Place the diced butter evenly on top of the potatoes, sprinkle the
cinnamon and nutmeg on
top, drizzle with the honey, and season them
with salt and pepper. Gently pour about 2
cups of water into the pan
without washing anything off the potatoes.
Cover and bake for 1 1/2 hours, or until the potatoes are very tender.
Remove the cover, stir, and cook for 30 minutes more. The potatoes
should have a dark
brown color on top and be very tender.
Remove the potatoes with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl
of
an electric mixer, and mix until all the lumps are gone. Drizzle in as much liquid from
the pan as desired. Turn off the mixer, and scrape the bowl. Continue mixing until the
potatoes have the desired consistency. Adjust seasoning. Place potatoes in a large
casserole dish and serve.
Chef Jamie’s Tips: I usually incorporate all the pan
liquid because it’s needed
for consistency and it has a lot of flavor.
I like the dark, orange sweet potatoes, not the thin-skinned pale ones. The
darker-skin
variety is sweeter and has deep orange flesh, while the pale variety
is starchy, The
medium to large size seem best, with the sweetest ones coming
from mid-fall to late
winter. Store them in a dry, dark, cool area.
You can add
more butter and honey if you wish.
This dish can be made up to 3 days in advance, but keep it covered in the refrigerator.
Roasted Garlic and Buttermilk
Mashed Potatoes
"The
Brennan family is Irish, Chef Jamie Shannon is Irish, and we’re
serious about potatoes.
In fact, John Brennan, Lally’s late father, had
a machine to
pre-cut potatoes for
restaurants and ran a company that
did that. And as you
can see from the recipes in this
book, we also like
garlic. So we’re proud of
our version of garlic mashed potatoes. We
fry
the garlic, add it to the butter,
and combine it with buttermilk for a rich,
Southern
side dish not to be missed."
Makes 8 servings
2 1/2 pounds boiling potatoes, white or red
1 1/2 tablespoons Kosher salt
1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter, 1 stick whole,
1 stick in 1/4-inch
slices
1 large head garlic, cloves peeled, half
sliced very thin, half
left whole
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sour cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Scrub the potatoes, place them in a large pot, cover with cold
water by 1 inch, and add the salt. Bring to a boil and simmer until a knife pierces the
potatoes with no resistance, about 30 to 40 minutes. Drain them in a colander.
Melt the whole stick of butter in a small skillet over medium heat.
When
the butter is hot and starting to brown, add the sliced garlic and stir with
a slotted spoon, separating any pieces that stick. Stir to fry evenly, until
brown and
crisp, about 2 minutes. Remove with the spoon, drain on a
paper towel, and season with
salt and pepper. Add the whole garlic cloves
to the pan and cook over medium heat for
about 1 1/2 minutes, or until
tender.
In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the buttermilk to a
simmer
but do not allow to boil.
When the potatoes are cool enough to handle,
peel them. Pass half
the potatoes through a food mill or ricer set over a
pot. Then remove the whole garlic
from the pan and pass the cloves
through the mill. Pass the remaining potatoes through the
mill. Stir in
the melted butter and turn on low heat. Stir in the buttermilk. Turn
off the
heat. Stir in the sliced butter and 1 cup of the sour cream and
season with salt and
pepper. Sprinkle the garlic chips on top, and serve. Garnish the top with the remaining
tablespoon of the sour cream.
Chef Jamie’s Tips:
The round white or red potatoes are
called boiling
potatoes, and they contain less starch. My favorites are Yukon Gold and
fingerling potatoes. Round potatoes are not new potatoes; new potatoes
are
just young potatoes.
Don’t peel the potatoes until after they’re cooked. During cooking, the peel
protects
the potato from absorbing water. And don’t overcook the potatoes,
or they will absorb
water. Don’t run them under cold water after cooking;
instead, let them cool by
themselves. Using a food mill or ricer helps avoid overmixing the potatoes and pulling out
too much starch. Be sure to serve
the potatoes while they are hot. Pay attention to their
temperature because
you’ll be adding cold ingredients.
Be sure to have plenty of salt in the water when you’re cooking the potatoes. Adding
salt at the end is not the same.
The whole garlic cooks quickly because the cloves are peeled and they go
directly into hot
fat.
Roasted Cauliflower
"Chef Jamie remembers the
first time he ever saw a 6-pound cauliflower. It
had been sent to Ella and Dottie Brennan
as a gift from up the road – from
a farm
run by the prisoners at Angola Penitentiary
(the sender of the gift
shall remain anonymous). Don’t boil the cauliflower and let the
flavor
dissipate into the
liquid. Overcooking will also lessen the intense flavor.
It’s
great with veal
chops, rack of lamb, even redfish."
Makes 8 side-dish servings
2 medium head cauliflower, cored and
cut into large florets
1 cup water
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, 4 tablespoons
diced, 4 tablespoons
melted
Kosher salt and freshly ground
pepper to taste
1 cup fine dry bread crumbs
1 cup grated Romano cheese
1 cup chopped fresh parsley
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
Arrange the cauliflower neatly in a roasting pan, add the water,
place the diced butter evenly over the florets, and season lightly with salt and pepper.
Bake uncovered for 30 minutes. Most of the liquid will evaporate and the cauliflower
should be about half-cooked.
Thoroughly combine the melted butter, bread crumbs, cheese, and
parsley, and sprinkle the mixture evenly over the florets. Return the pan to the oven, and
cook for another 25 to 30 minutes, or until the cauliflower is tender but not overcooked.
The topping should be golden brown, not burned.
Pear Parsnip Purée
"If you
don’t have fresh, ripe pears, don’t bother making this dish. This great combo goes
well with any meat or roasted fish. We serve it during the winter holidays, and it’s fun
to watch intrigued customers trying to figure out what it
is when they’ve forgotten the
menu description. Then they ask for the recipe."
Makes 8 to 10 side-dish servings
3 pounds parsnips, peeled and roughly
chopped into 1-inch
lengths
4 cups milk
Kosher salt and freshly ground
white pepper to taste
6 medium ripe pears, cored, and quartered
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter,
cut in 1/2-inch dice
1 tablespoon honey or sugar, or to taste
1/2 cup water
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Place the parsnips in a medium pot, add the milk, salt, and pepper,
bring
to a boil, then simmer for 20 minutes, or until the parsnips are tender. Remove the
parsnips from the milk and set aside.
Transfer the pears to a small roasting pan. Add half the diced
butter,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle the honey on top. Add the
water
to the
pears, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the pears are
fully cooked and very tender
and most of the liquid has evaporated.
Add the pears and any remaining liquid to the parsnips, and purée
the
mixture with a hand blender, a food processor, or a ricer. If the mixture seems too
thick, add a little of the hot milk mixture. Add the remaining butter, and adjust
seasoning.
Chef Jamie’s Tips:
Parsnips can be found most of the year,
but are best after
the first frost has turned their starch into sugar. Pears are usually
at their
best
in the late fall. If the pears are not ripe, make something else. Be sure
the
parsnips are fully cooked. They tend to be woody when they’re not.
I like to add some of the liquid that remains after it comes out of the oven
and
let it
melt over my purée.
This is a great dish with meat and poultry, but I’ve also enjoyed it with fish.
It makes
a special holiday dish.
By now, we're sure you're even more of a Commander's Palace fan
than ever before! It follows, then, that you'll want to have a look at
Commander's Palace: a Pictoral Guide to the Famed Restaurant and Its Cuisine
Part of "The Great Restaurants of the World" series, this this
pictorial
guide to a famous New Orleans restaurant features 75 stunning
color
photos and 15 delicious recipes.
And of course, you're longing for more recipes. No problem, just
click!
Introduction:
Pickled Shrimp
(includes Creole Seafood Seasoning)
Onion-Crusted Fried Chicken Salad with
Blue Cheese Dressing
Fish
and Seafood:
Catfish Pecan with Lemon Thyme Pecan Butter
Stewed Creole Tomatoes and Shrimp
Beef &
Pork:
Veal Chop Tchoupitoulas
(includes Veal Stock and Creole Meat Seasoning)
Roast Pork Loin with Winter Root Vegetables
Sweet
Stuff!:
Sour Cream Pecan Coffee Cake
Citrus Pound Cake
Lemon Flan
More Commander's Recipes
A Tribute to Chef Jamie Shannon
Index - Cookbook Features
Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?
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