"This looks like a steak-house special and tastes like an Italian culinary
treasure. I’ve taken thick veal chops, butterflied them so that each has
a roomy pocket, and filled the pockets generously with ingredients more
precious than many currencies: thinly sliced prosciutto, Italian Fontina,
and meaty porcini. Hearty but refined, bold but polished, the dish is
glorious. I like it served with Braised Carrots."

Makes 4 servings.

10 ounces fresh porcini, trimmed and cleaned
Four 10-ounce veal rib chops (bone-in)
4 slices prosciutto, cut in half
3 1/2 ounces Italian Fontina, cut into 8 thin slices
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
1 sprig thyme
1 shallot, peeled, trimmed, finely chopped,
rinsed and dried
1/2 cup dry white wine

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Slice half the porcini into 1/4-inch-thick slices and quarter the remaining porcini. Keep the slices and quarters separate but nearby.
The veal chops need to be butterflied, a job you can do easily at home
or one you can have the butcher do. Working with a long sharp knife,
cut the meaty round part of each chop in half horizontally just to the
bone, deep enough so that you can open the chop and stuff it. Done
right, when you open the chop the bone will run down the center
and the meat will form two circles on either side of the bone. (It
will be like a lowercase "db" monogram.)
Open one chop. Working on one side of the chop, place one eighth of the
sliced mushrooms, a piece of prosciutto, and a slice of Fontina, then repeat
so that you’ve got two complete layers of stuffing; close the chop. Do this
for the remaining 3 chops, season them with salt and pepper, and then tie
them with kitchen twine to keep the stuffing in place and the chops
in shape.
Warm 1 tablespoon of the olive oil with the garlic and thyme in a medium sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Toss in the quartered mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes, or until
the mushrooms have released their moisture and it has cooked down. Pull
the pan from the heat and set aside. Gently reheat the mushrooms right
before serving.
Warm the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large ovenproof sauté pan
or skillet (or work in two pans, each with 1 tablespoon oil) over medium-
high heat. When the oil is hot, slip the chops into the pan and cook to
color, about 3 minutes on each side and 1 to 2 minutes around the edges
(7 to 8 minutes total). Slide the pan into the oven to finish the cooking,
figuring on 4 minutes a side. Remove the pan from the oven, transfer
the chops to a warm plate, and keep them warm while you make the
sauce. (This resting period is important for the chops - it will give their
delicious juices a chance to settle back into the meat.)
Skim the fat off the pan juices, put the pan over low heat, and add the
shallot. Cook the shallot for 1 to 2 minutes, then add the wine and cook
until the wine reduces by half. Pour in whatever juices may have accum-
ulated on the plate with the chops. Taste the sauce and season with salt
and pepper if needed, then strain it.

To serve: Place one chop on each of four heated dinner plates, spoon
over a little of the pan juices, and divide the mushrooms among the plates.