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New Tapas: Culinary Travels with Spain's Top Chefs
Vino y Tapas
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Manning, Ruane
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Tapas Bar, Barrio Santa Cruz, Seville, Andalucia, Spain
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Brooks, Jean
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Sunset Over the Costa Del Sol and the Ancient Watchtower at Estepona, Malaga, Andalucia, Spain
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Recipe Source
The Best of Gourmet, Vol. 1
from the Editors of Gourmet, 1986,
Condé Nast Books, Random
House
Buy new, used, and hard-to-find books at Alibris!
What are
tapas? Here is the “official” version, courtesy of the
Tourist Office of
Spain:
“Walk into a Spanish tapas bar worthy of its name and the first thing that
hits you
is the variety: Pickles on cocktail sticks, cheeses and hams,
homely omelettes, baby earthenware casseroles with sizzling hot dishes and
elegant mayonnaise-topped mouthfuls. It's the chance to dip into so many
tastes, as well as the visual spread
of tapas that make them universally
appealing.
But behind the apparently bewildering variety are certain clear principles.
Originally a mouthful of food included in the bar-price of a fino [Sherry], wine
or
beer, a tapa is designed to accompany drink and good conversation. Or as
journalist Pedro Soleras put it in the newspaper El País last year, 'The tapa, invented in an age less obsessed with productivity, is a trick for
spinning out
your drinks without getting drunk'. And whether thirst
provoking or absorbent,
they should be easy to eat so they don't interrupt
the flow of conversation.
Another point is clear too. Even though they are now to be found in homes
and smart restaurants, tapas have kept an informal spirit through their
popular
origins as street-food. So don't hold back. There's always room for
improvisation around the ingredients that come to hand and the cook's
personality...”
Menu:
Toasted Blanched Almonds
Marinated Black and Green Olives
Pork and Ham Meatballs in Sherry Pepper Sauce
Squid and Celery Salad
Garlic Shrimp
Mussels with Ham, Peppers, and Tomatoes
Squid and Celery Salad
2 pounds squid, cleaned *, the bodies cut
crosswise into
1/4-inch rings,
the flaps
cut into 1/4-inch strips, and the tentacles
halved lengthwise
1 cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons salt
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
1/3 cup olive oil
3 stalks of celery, sliced thin diagonally
* Pull the
head and body of the squid apart, cut off the tentacles just below the eyes,
and reserve the tentacles and body sac. Discard the transparent quill from
inside the
body
sac, rinse the body sac well, and peel off the purple
membrane covering it. Pull
off the
flaps gently from the body sac to avoid
tearing the sac and reserve them.
In a large saucepan combine the squid, the wine, the salt,
the bay leaf,
and enough water to cover the squid by 2 inches, bring the
liquid to a boil,
and simmer the squid, covered, for 40 to 50 minutes, or
until it is tender.
Drain the squid in a colander, discarding the bay leaf,
rinse it under cold
water,
and pat it dry.
In a small bowl, whisk the
vinegar with salt and pepper to
taste, add the
oil in a stream, whisking,
and whisk the dressing until it is
emulsified.
In a bowl combine the squid
and the celery, drizzle the mixture with the
dressing, and toss the salad
with salt and pepper to taste. The
salad may
be made up to 1 day in advance
and kept covered and chilled.
Serve the salad at room temperature. Makes 4
cups.
Garlic Shrimp
1/3 cup olive oil
4 garlic cloves, sliced
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound unshelled shrimp
(26 to 32 shrimp per pound)
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1/4 cup medium-dry Sherry
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
Fresh lemon juice to taste
In a large heavy skillet heat the oil over moderately high
heat until it is
hot, add the garlic, and cook it, stirring, until it is
pale golden. Add the
red pepper flakes and the shrimp and cook the mixture,
stirring, for 1
minute, or until the shrimp are pink and just firm to the
touch. Sprinkle
the shrimp with the paprika and cook the mixture, stirring,
for 30 seconds. Add the Sherry,
boil the mixture for 30 seconds, and
sprinkle it with the parsley. Season the mixture with the lemon juice and
salt and pepper to
taste and transfer it to
a bowl. The shrimp may be made
up to 1 day in
advance and kept covered and chilled. Makes 26 to 32 shrimp.
Mussels with Ham, Peppers and Tomatoes
1/8 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 pounds mussels, cleaned and steamed open *
1 onion, minced
2 ounces thickly sliced smoked ham, chopped fine
1/2 red bell pepper, chopped fine
1/2 green bell pepper, chopped fine
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
A 1-pound can tomatoes, drained well and chopped
* To
clean mussels: Scrub the mussels well in several changes of water.
Scrape
off the beards, and rinse the mussels. If the mussels are
exceptionally dirty, let
them soak in cold water to cover, with 1/3 cup salt
and 1 tablespoon cornmeal
per gallon water, for 2 hours
to help them
disgorge any sand. Drain the mussels
and rinse them well under cold water.
To Steam Open Mussels: In a kettle steam the mussels, covered, over
high
heat,
shaking the kettle once or twice, for 5 to 6 minutes, or until
the shells
have opened.
Discard any unopened shells.
In a
small bowl let the saffron soak in the wine for 15 minutes. Transfer
the
mussels with a slotted spoon to a bowl, reserving the liquid, and strain
the
liquid through a fine sieve into another small bowl. In a large heavy
skillet cook the onion, the ham, and the bell peppers in the oil over
moderate heat, stirring, until the vegetables are softened, add the garlic,
and cook the mixture, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and
cook
the mixture, stirring, for
5 minutes, or until it is thickened. Add
the saffron mixture and the
reserved mussel liquid and boil the mixture
until most of the liquid is
evaporated. Season the sauce with salt and
pepper and let it cool to room
temperature. While the sauce is cooling
remove the top shell from each
mussel and loosen the mussels from
the bottom shells. Spoon the sauce over
the mussels on the half shell
and arrange the mussels on a platter. Makes
about 30 mussels.
Tapas, page 1
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