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Pasta e Fagioli – Pasta and Bean Soup
  Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking
by Marcella Hazan, 1992, Borzoi/Alfred A. Knopf
“The classic bean variety for
pasta e fagioli
is the cranberry or Scotch bean, brightly marbled in white and pink or even
deep red hues. When cooked, its flavor is unlike that of any other bean,
subtly recalling that of chestnuts. In the spring and summer it is available
fresh in its pod and many specialty or ethnic vegetable markets carry it.
When very fresh, the pods are firm and brilliantly colored, but even if they
are wilted and discolored, the beans inside are likely to be perfectly
sound. You can open one or two pods just to be sure.
Cranberry beans can be frozen with great success and are better than the
dried kind. If your market carries fresh cranberry beans in season, you
could buy a substantial quantity, and freeze the shelled beans in tightly
sealed plastic freezer bags. They can be cooked exactly like the fresh. When
fresh cranberry beans are not available, the dried are a wholly satisfactory
substitute and, if necessary, one may even use the canned. If you can’t find
cranberry beans in any form, you can substitute dried kidney beans.”
For 6
servings
1/4 cup
extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped onion
3 tablespoons chopped carrot
3 tablespoons chopped celery
3 or 4 pork ribs,
OR a ham bone with some lean meat attached,
OR 2 little pork chops
2/3 cup canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, cut up, with their juice,
OR fresh tomatoes, if ripe and firm, peeled and cut up
2 pound fresh cranberry beans, unshelled weight,
OR 1 cup dried cranberry or red kidney beans,
soaked and cooked as described below *
OR 3 cups canned cranberry or red kidney beans, drained
3 cups (or more if needed) [beef stock]
OR 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 2 cups water
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
Either maltagliati pasta, homemade [instructions included in cookbook],
OR 1/2 pound small, tubular macaroni
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
*
Put the beans in a bowl and add enough water to cover by at least 3 inches.
Put the bowl in some out-of-the-way corner of your kitchen and leave it
there overnight.
When the beans have finished soaking, drain them, rinse them in fresh cold
water, and put them in a pot that will accommodate the beans and enough
water to cover them by at least 3 inches. Put a lid on the pot and turn on
the heat to medium. When the water comes to a boil, adjust the heat so that
it simmers steadily, but gently. Cook the beans until tender, but not mushy,
about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Add salt only when the beans are almost
completely tender so that their skin does not dry and crack while cooking.
Taste them periodically so you’ll know when they are done. Keep the beans in
the liquid that you cooked them in until you are ready to use them. If
necessary, they can be prepared a day or two ahead of time and stored,
always in their liquid.
1. Put the
olive oil and chopped onion in a soup pot and turn on the heat to medium.
Cook the onion, stirring it, until it becomes colored a pale gold.
2. Add the carrot and celery, stir once or twice to coat them well, then add
the pork. Cook for about 10 minutes, turned the meat and the vegetables over
from time to time with a wooden spoon.
3. Add the cut-up tomatoes and their juice, adjust the heat so that the
juice simmer very gently, and cook for 10 minutes.
4. If using fresh beans: Shell them, rinse them in cold water, and
put them in the soup pot. Stir 2 or 3 times to coat them well, then add the
broth/stock. Cover the pot, adjust the heat so that the broth bubbles at a
steady, but gentle boil, and cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the beans
are fully tender.
If using cooked dried beans or the canned: Extend the cooking time
for the tomatoes in Step 3 to 20 minutes. Add the drained cooked or canned
beans, stirring them thoroughly to coat them well. Cook for 5 minutes, then
add the broth/stock, cover the pot, and bring the broth/stock to a gentle
boil.
5. Scoop up about 1/2 cup of the beans and mash them through a food mil back
into the pot. Add salt, a few grindings of black pepper, and stir
thoroughly.
6. Check the soup for density: It should be liquid enough to cook the pasta
in. If necessary, add more broth, or, if you are using diluted canned broth,
more water. When the soup has come to a steady, moderate boil, add the
pasta. If you are using homemade pasta, taste for doneness after 1 minute.
If you are using macaroni pasta, it will take several minutes longer, but
stop the cooking when the pasta is tender, but still firm to the bite.
Before turning off the heat, swirl in 1 tablespoon of butter and the grated
cheese.
7. Pour the soup into a large serving bowl or into individual plates, and
allow to settle for 10 minutes before serving. It tastes best when eaten
warm, rather than piping hot.
Variation with Rice
The same
soup is delicious with rice. Substitute 1 cup of rice, preferably Italian
Arborio rice, for the pasta. Follow all other steps as given above.
Ahead-of-time note: You can prepare the soup almost entirely in advance
but stop at the end of Step 5. Add and cook the pasta or rice only when you
are going to make the soup ready for serving.
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