Tapas Bar, Barrio Santa Cruz, Seville, Andalucia, Spain
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Lomo de Orza
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“It is not very easy to fix the principles upon which mankind have agreed
to eat some animals, and reject others; and as the principle is not evident,
it is not uniform. That which is selected as delicate in one country, is by
its neighbours abhorred as loathsome.”
~ Samuel Johnson
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La Belle Cuisine
Lomo de Orza
Forever Summer
by Nigella Lawson, ©2003, Hyperion
“ ‘Lomo’ is pork loin and the ‘orza’ is the terracotta dish in which
it’s
traditionally marinated. I found this recipe in Penelope Casas’
Tapas: The Little Dishes of Spain
, and I can’t tell you how bowled
over I was by it.
You need to start the day before you want to eat it,
but in a way that makes
it easier. But believe me, even if it were
harder to make it would be worth
it. The marinade it’s steeped in,
after it’s fried, makes it meltingly
tender and flavorsome without
being heavy scented. I get the butcher to
slice the pork loin leaving
the fat on, as that’s what gives this its
wonderful flavor, but if you’re
buying the meat from the supermarket just
get any piece of loin you
can find and slice it thickly yourself. Simple
served with a salad and
some baked potatoes, it makes a wonderful low-key,
evocatively sunny
Saturday lunch at any time of the year.”
Serves 4 –
6
About 1 1/2 pounds boneless pork loin,
cut into 1-inch-thick
slices
Maldon or other sea salt and black pepper
1 1/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of half a lemon
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
3-4 sprigs fresh rosemary,
needles finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
Season the pork with salt and pepper, and brown over
medium-high heat in
a pan with the 2 tablespoons of oil. Lower the heat once
the meat has a good color and cook for a further 15 minutes or until the
pork is cooked through but still juicy.
Put the meat into a shallow dish – preferably earthenware – big enough to
hold the pork all in one layer, and pour over the remaining olive oil, along
with the juices from the pan. Add the remaining ingredients and make sure
the meat is immersed in the marinade. Cover with foil and refrigerate
overnight.
When you are ready to eat, take the dish from the refrigerator a good 20
minutes beforehand so it isn’t unyieldingly cold. Cut the meat at a
diagonal. Arrange slices on a large plate and spoon over some of the
oily marinade. Fabulous.
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