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Still Life with Fruit I
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La Belle Cuisine
Spiced
Red-Wine Fruit Soup with
Candied Orange
Margaret Fox and Christopher Kump,
Café Beaujolais, Mendocino, CA
Food and Wine Magazine's America's Best Chefs
Food & Wine Books, Editorial Director: Judith Hill,
1995, American
Express Publishing Corp.
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“Refreshing
in the summer, festive around the holidays,
this chilled
soup
finds a warm
welcome any time of year.”
Serves 6
1
small pineapple
6 small seedless oranges
1 1/4 cups sugar, more if needed
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise,
or 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 star anise (available at Asian markets)
2 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur,
such as Grand Marnier
1 quart red wine
3 all-purpose pears, such as Bartlett
12 fresh mint leaves or 2 teaspoons peppermint tea leaves,
1 cinnamon
stick, 1 teaspoon peppercorns and 1/2 teaspoon
cardamom
seeds, all tied
together in cheesecloth
4 teaspoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons water
1/2 cup crème fraîche
About 1/4 cup heavy cream
Mint leaves, for garnish (optional)
1. With a large stainless-steel knife, trim off the top and the bottom
of the pineapple and slice off the skin. Using the tip of a vegetable
peeler,
remove
the eyes. Quarter the pineapple lengthwise and core it. Cut
each quarter crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices and cut enough of
the
slices into bite-size pieces to make 1 cup.
2. In a large saucepan of
simmering water, scald the oranges for 5 seconds. Drain. Cut the orange
with the nicest skin into very thin slices, saving
any juice. Peel the
zest from two of the remaining oranges and cut it
into thin strips.
3.
Squeeze the two zested oranges. Add enough water to the juice to make
1 1/4 cups and pour into a medium stainless-steel saucepan. Stir in
the
sugar and the orange slices with any accumulated juice. Scrape the
seeds
from the vanilla bean, if using, and set the seeds aside. Add the
bean and
star anise to the saucepan and bring to a simmer over high heat,
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cover, reduce the heat to low and simmer
very gently
until the white of the orange slices turns translucent and the
syrup takes
on a rich amber color, about 1 hour. Add more water if the
syrup thickens
too much before the slices are translucent. Strain the
syrup and add enough water to make 3/4 cup. Reserve the orange slices;
discard the star anise
and vanilla bean
4. Meanwhile, peel the three remaining oranges with a stainless-steel
knife, removing all the white pith. Working over a bowl to catch the
juice, cut
the sections away from the membrane. Put the orange sections in
the
bowl. Squeeze the membranes to get all the juice. Stir in the reserved
pineapple and the orange liqueur. Set aside to macerate until ready to
assemble
the soup.
5.
In another medium stainless-steel saucepan, boil the wine over high
heat
until reduced to 2 1/2 cups, about 12 minutes. Peel, halve and core
the
pears. Cut them crosswise into 1/3-inch-thick slices. Add the reserved
orange syrup and orange zest and the herb and spice packet to the wine.
Bring to a simmer over moderately low heat. Add the pears and poach
until
tender when pierced with a knife, about 5 minutes. With a slotted
spoon,
remove the pears.
6.
Taste the soup and add sugar if needed. Dissolve the cornstarch in
the
water and whisk the mixture into the soup. Bring to a boil over high
heat
and boil for 1 minute to thicken. Pour the soup into a glass or
stainless-
steel container, add 1/2 teaspoon of the vanilla extract, if
using, and let
cool slightly; then refrigerate the soup to chill, at least
2 hours. Squeeze
the herb and spice packet gently and discard it.
7. In a food processor or blender, purée the reserved candied orange
slices
and vanilla bean seeds. Add the crème fraîche and the remaining
1/4
teaspoon vanilla extract, if using. Add enough of the heavy cream to
make the mixture just pourable.
8.
Put the poached pears in shallow bowls. Scatter the orange sections
and pineapple pieces on top. Ladle the soup into the bowls and top
each serving with a dollop of the orange crème fraîche. Garnish with
a mint
leaf, if you like.
Chef’s Tip:
Avoid orange with thick peels. If you’re using organic
oranges,
you can skip the scalding in step two.
Featured Archive Recipes:
Chilled Fruit Soup with Poached Apples, Crispy Croutons, and Cider Ice Cream
Spiced Cherry Soup (Francois Payard)
Warm Apple Cider Soup with Crispy Apple Turnovers (Charlie Trotter)
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