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Nigella Lawson's Mint Julep Peaches
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"The value of those wild fruits is not in
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La Belle Cuisine
Mint Julep Peaches
Forever Summer
© 2003 By Nigella Lawson, Hyperion
“There’s something about mint juleps that I
associate with the deep heat of midsummer. I have to say this association is
an entirely literary one: I’ve
never
sat
in the wilting sun drinking a mint julep in my life; the most I
can muster
is
a few in cold college rooms in my cocktail-drinking student
years (which certainly dates me). But there is, I always remember, I hope
not
erroneously,
from ‘The Great Gatsby’, that pivotal scene, when they’re
all sitting around
in the airless heat, deranged, before everything happens,
drinking mint juleps.
[And then there’s Tennessee Williams…]
Anyway, there
is something intensely summery – leafy, fresh, spicily
aromatic – about
these peaches, poached in
sugar-syrup and bourbon and
sprinkled with mint.
Scotch whisky doesn’t
seem to have the mellow,
rounded spiciness of bourbon,
but if that’s all
you’ve got in the house…”
Serves 6 -
8
3 generous cups water
2 1/3 cups granulated sugar
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons bourbon
8 white-fleshed peaches
Small bunch fresh mint
Put the water, sugar and 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of the
bourbon in
a wide-bottomed saucepan, swirl about to help the sugar start
dissolving
a bit, and then put on the stove over medium heat and bring to
the boil.
Let it boil away for 5 minutes or so and then turn the heat down
so that
the syrup simmers; you want pronounced but not fierce bubbles. Cut
the
peaches in half and remove the pits and then lower these halves, so that
they fit snugly, cit-side down, in the pan (I find that I get four to six
halves
at a time, depending on the pan I’m using) and poach for a couple of
minutes before turning them over and poaching for another 2-3 minutes
cut-side up; obviously the ripeness of the peaches will determine exactly
how long they need cooking. (And if the peaches are very unripe, it will
be
much easier to remove the pits after cooking.) The best way of testing
the
peaches is to prod the cut sides with a fork; you’ll be serving the fruit
hum-side up later and don’t want any fork marks to mar the pink-cheeked
beauty of these pale-fleshed peaches.
When they feel tender but not flabbily soft, remove with a slotted spoon
to
a dish and continue till you’ve cooked all the peaches. Pour the juices
that
have collected in the plate – pink from the color of the skins – back
into
the poaching liquid, itself blush-deepened from cooking the fruit,
then
measure 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of the liquid into a small sauce-
pan. Add
the remaining bourbon to this pan, put on the heat and boil till
reduced by
about half.
While this is happening, carefully peel off the skins; this should be easy
enough. And on cooking, you’ll see that the rosy fuzz leaves behind its
markings on the white fruit, so that each peach half is tenderly colored
with
an uneven pink.
You can leave the peach halves, cut-side down, covered with plastic
wrap,
on
a plate till you need them. Should the peaches start turning
brown
on standing, just spritz with lime juice and their unsullied beauty
will be
restored.
Let the reduced syrup cool in a pitcher somewhere
nearby;
you can freeze
the
remaining poaching liquid to use the next
time you
want to make these (just
top up with water and a dash or
two of bourbon when you reheat). Before
serving, pour some of the
thick, pink-bronze
syrup over the peaches and
scatter the torn-off
mint leaves, some left
whole, some roughly chopped,
on top.
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