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Slow-Roasted Salmon with Red Wine Risotto,
Wild Thyme, and
Tiny White Asparagus
Charlie Trotter's Seafood
by Charlie Trotter, 1997, Ten Speed Press
“In this dish, the salmon is
covered with wild thyme and sits on a bed of braised celery as it slowly
roasts at 225 degrees. The result is a highly aromatic piece of
fish that is
so smooth it literally has no texture as it melts in your mouth. Thus,
the
contrast of pairing it with the pungent red wine risotto is all the more
dramatic. This dish is extremely satisfying, true good-for-the-soul food.
The
Veal Stock Reduction and tiny white asparagus finish the dish with a
touch
of elegance that nicely elevates the overall preparation.”
Serves 4
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup diced Spanish onions
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon butter
1 cup uncooked Arborio rice
1 cup Red Wine Reduction (recipe follows)
1 cup roasted woodear mushrooms, chopped (recipe follows)
Salt and pepper
Four 3-ounce pieces salmon, skin removed
4 stalks celery, peeled and cut into long, thin strips
1 1/2 cups fresh thyme
1 cup tiny white asparagus
1/2 cup Veal Stock Reduction (recipe follows)
Method – Sweat the garlic and onion in a medium saucepan with
2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the Arborio rice, stir to coat with the
onion
and garlic, and cook for 3 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of the Red Wine
Reduction and continue to cook over medium-low heat while gently stirring
constantly. Once the rice has absorbed the Red Wine Reduction, add the
remaining 1/2 cup, stirring constantly. After all of the Red Wine Reduction
is absorbed,
add 1/4 cup additions of water until the rice is just cooked.
(It should be al dente, yet creamy.) Fold in the roasted woodear mushrooms
and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Season both sides of the salmon with salt and pepper. Place the celery
strips on a small sheet pan, creating a rack for the salmon. Place the
salmon on top of the celery and cover with 1 ¼ cups of the fresh thyme.
Roast at
225 degrees [F] for 15 to 20 minutes, or until just done. Remove
from
oven, cut the celery into a small dice, and fold into the red wine
risotto.
Quickly sauté the asparagus in a small pan with the remaining 1 teaspoon
of
butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Warm the Veal Stock Reduction in a small saucepan.
Red Wine Reduction
Yield: 1/2 cup
1 Spanish onion, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 Granny Smith apple, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
One 750-ml bottle Burgundy
2 cups Port
1 cup chicken stock
Method – In a medium saucepan, caramelize the onion, carrot,
celery,
apple, and garlic in the grapeseed oil. Add the Burgundy and the
Port and simmer over medium heat for 2 hours. Strain and place in a small
saucepan with the chicken stock. Continue to simmer over medium heat for 1
hour,
or until reduced to 1/2 cup.
Roasted Mushrooms
Yield: about 2 cups
3 cups assorted wild mushrooms, cleaned (such as shiitake,
cremini,
black trumpet, hedgehog, portobello) [in this case, woodear
mushrooms
are specified]
1/2 cup chopped Spanish onion
1 clove garlic
1 sprig thyme or rosemary
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup mushroom stock or water
Salt and pepper
Method – Place the mushrooms in an ovenproof pan and toss
with the
onion, garlic, thyme or rosemary, and olive oil. Add the stock or
water and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and bake at 325
degrees [F] for
30 to 40 minutes (some mushrooms may take more or less
time), or until the mushrooms are tender. Remove from the oven and cool in
the cooking juices.
Veal Stock Reduction
Yield: 1 1/4 cups
10 pounds veal bones
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 leek, cleaned and coarsely chopped
1 bulb garlic, cut in half
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1/2 cup tomato concassée [peeled, seeded and diced tomato]
4 cups dry red wine (such as Burgundy)
Method – Place the bones in a roasting pan and roast in the
oven at 450 degrees [F] for 2 hours, or until golden brown. When bones are
browned, caramelize the carrots, celery, onion, leek, and garlic in the
grapeseed oil in
a large stockpot. Add the tomato concassée and cook for 5
minutes. Deglaze with the red wine and reduce until most of the wine has
been cooked out.
Add the browned bones and cover with cold water. Bring to a
boil, then reduce heat and let simmer over medium heat for 8 hours. Strain
through
a fine-mesh sieve and simmer over medium heat for 45 minutes, or
until it
coats the back of a spoon. Extra reduction can be stored in the
freezer for
several months.
Recommended
substitution – Cod, lobster, scallops, red snapper, swordfish, tuna
Wine Notes
- The
development of Sangiovese in California vineyards has been
rapid and
exciting. The variety has a personality distinct from its forebears in
Tuscany. The best producers are avoiding overoaking and overextracting, thus
pushing forward the sour cherry and earthy tones that make Sangiovese as
fine a variety for seafood as it is for meat. The supple fruit from the
young Sangiovese vineyards at Swanson, Shafer’s “Firebreak,” or Staglin’s
“Stagliano” makes
these wines good companions for this meltingly delicious
approach to salmon.
Thyme is a Sangiovese-friendly herb, and the risotto
harks back to the grape’s
Italian origins.
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