Basic Risotto

4 1/2 cups hot chicken stock, vegetable stock, or canned
reduced-sodium chicken broth
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, minced (about 3/4 cup)
1 medium leek, white parts only, trimmed,
cleaned, and chopped (about 1 cup)
4 to 6 scallions, trimmed, white and green
parts chopped separately
2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
1/3 cup dry white wine
Salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Freshly ground black pepper

Pour the stock into a 2-quart saucepan and keep it hot over low heat.
(The texture of a properly cooked risotto is creamy, with each grain of rice separate and al dente. To achieve that, you are actually coaxing the starch gently out of the grains of rice. Adding cold stock to the risotto may cause
the surfaces of the rice grains to ‘seize up’ and seal in the starch, instead
of releasing it into the liquid.)
Heat the olive oil in a wide 3- to 4-quart braising pan over medium heat. Stir
in the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes. Stir in the leek and the white parts of the scallions and cook, stirring, until
the onion is golden, about 6 minutes. Adjust the heat under the pan as the onion browns so that it cooks slowly with gentle bubbling.
Stir in the rice and continue stirring until the grains are coated with oil and “toasted” – the edges become translucent – 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in the wine and let it boil, stirring the rice, until evaporated. (Since the rice kernel is 98 percent starch, the acidity in the wine balances and imparts flavor to the
rice kernel.)
Season the rice lightly with salt and ladle enough of the hot stock into the
pan to barely cover the rice. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat so the stock
is at a lively simmer. Cook, stirring constantly, until all the stock has been
absorbed and you can see the bottom of the pan when you stir. Continue cooking, pouring in the remaining hot stock in small batches – each addition should be just enough to completely moisten the rice – and cook until each batch of stock has been absorbed. Stir constantly until the rice mixture is creamy but al dente; this will take 16 to 20 minutes from the time the wine
was added. When in doubt, undercook – risotto continues to cook, even
after it is removed from the heat.
Adjust the level of heat throughout cooking so the rice is simmering very gently. The total amount of stock you use may vary for several reasons:
the type of rice you are using, the shape and size of the pan, and the desired texture of the finished risotto which can be quite dense, or soft and runny, depending on your personal taste. If you like a creamier risotto – called all’onda, or ‘wavelike’ in Italian – stir in a little more stock once the rice is
al dente, but do not cook the rice any further. For a denser risotto, keep the rice over the heat and cook until the last addition of stock has been almost entirely absorbed by the rice. There is a general rule that risotto with sea-
food is looser and risotto prepared with meats, game, and mushrooms is
more dense, but ultimately it depends on your taste and preference.
Remove the pan from the heat; stir in the butter and green parts of the scal-
lion until the butter is completely melted. Stir in half the grated cheese, taste the risotto, and add salt, if necessary, and pepper. Always ladle risotto into warm, shallow bowls and serve immediately after finishing. Either top each serving with some of the remaining grated cheese or pass the cheese separately.
 

Variations

Tomato and Mozzarella Risotto

Heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add 2 cloves garlic, sliced, and shake the pan until the garlic is lightly browned. Slide in 2 cups halved cherry tomatoes and stir gently until they are juicy.
Toss in a handful of shredded fresh basil, remove the pan from the heat, and set aside. Prepare the Basic Risotto, stirring in the sautéed cherry tomatoes halfway through the cooking. Remove the pan of risotto from the heat, and
stir in 1 1/2 cups of cubed fresh mozzarella (preferably mozzarella bufala) along with the grated cheese and butter.

Radicchio Risotto

Prepare the Basic Risotto adding 4 cups shredded radicchio leaves (prefer-
ably radicchio Trevisano) to the pan after the wine has evaporated.

Some Simple Additions to Basic Risotto

Stir leftover cooked vegetables into the Basic Risotto during the last few minutes of cooking.
Leftover steamed clams or mussels… can be picked from their shells and added to the risotto at the very end of cooking. Substitute some of the liquid
or sauce that the shellfish were cooked in for the stock called for in the above recipes. As a general rule, 1 cup of shellfish cooking liquid will flavor enough risotto for two.
…Since the meat [leftover oxtails or short ribs] is already cooked, you can prepare the Basic Risotto as above, using some of the leftover sauce from
the meat in place of the stock. Shred the meat finely and add it during the
last few minutes of cooking.

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