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Surprise!
A Field of Mature Cornstalks Ready for Harvest
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Maize, or Indian Corn Plant
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Fresh Picked Sweet Corn
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Brown, David...
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Produce at an...
Nancy & Steve...
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"Corn Harvest," Saturday Evening Post Cover, October 9, 1948
Mead Schaeffer
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Cornfield near Burwell, Nebraska
Joel Sartore
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La Belle Cuisine
AMERICAN Food!
“As
Midwesterners know, corn ought to be ‘knee high by the fourth of July’.
There
is nothing more American, except apple pie, of course, than a juicy
ear
of corn
in the hot summer months. Yet corn is an integral part of many
dishes
around the globe, from posole and
polenta to
corn chowder and Yankee
corn relish…” (from the publishers of Corn: a Country Garden Cookbook
)
In the
course of writing “Ugly Americans?” this
on Independence Day
2002, I found
myself contemplating the intriguing question: Just exactly what IS American
food? Almost as impossible a question as “What is an American?” due to the
vast and complex diversity we enjoy. And, of course, I am referring not only to North American food, but more specifically
to U. S. American
food.
During my tenure in Germany I found the knee-jerk response to this question
to
be
“hamburgers,” or “hot dogs,” or both. In the minds of a great many
Europeans, these two foods constitute our sustenance in the good ole
(unenlightened) US of A.
Hamburger:
We have not researched this extensively, but I am sure nonetheless that
the reference is to the city of Hamburg, Germany. Ground meat Hamburg style.
Frankfurter/Wiener:
Once again, no extensive research, but
Frankfurter is only half of the term, i.e. Frankfurter Wurst. The same goes
for Wiener, only this time the reference is to Wien/Vienna, Austria.
Viennese Wurst, if you will. We just dropped the “wurst”.
Potato:
American, yes. North American, no. That goes for both the
sweet potato and
the
so-called “Irish” potato. Courtesy of
The Food Museum, we offer you the
following potato facts:
" Sweets: The Other Potato
The American plant that saved China and Japan from famine is also an
integral part of the food history of the southern United States. A member of
the morning glory family, the sweet potato was one of the first foods
Columbus ate in the Americas."
"Better than Gold: The Potato
The world's most important vegetable, the potato may have influenced history
more than any other food. The American native made the massive Inca empire
possible, underpinned the European Industrial Revolution, created the
discipline of plant pathology, prolonged World War I and was key to the
downfall of Poland's Communist regime."
Corn:
This is it, right? Has to be! Well, yes and no. American, yes,
but once again the
origin is Central – not North – America.
"Amazing Maize!
America's contribution to the world's edible grasses, corn or maize is the
ingredient most prevalent in the processed foods eaten in North America.
Native to Mexico or Central America, corn is also a powerful source of
industrial products. The United States grows half the world's corn."
“And those who came were resolved
to be Englishmen
Gone to the World’s end,
but English every one,
And they ate of the white corn kernels,
parched in the sun,
And they knew it not,
But they’d not be English again.”
~ from “Western Star” by Stephen Vincent Benet
Close
enough, I’ve decided. It appears to me that the United States, Mexico in
particular, and Central America in general, have made corn/maize their own
more than any other countries on the globe. At least that is true enough for me to be content with doing this month’s feature on corn. (It occurs to
me that squash may
well be the most “American” food of all, but this month
we shall concentrate on
corn anyway and save squash for another time.)
Corn
is grown in Europe, of course, but very seldom consumed straight from
the
field by humans. The Italians have found a way to love it:
Polenta! A
great com-
fort food to be sure. By and large, though, Europeans seem to
consider corn just
so
much fodder – excellent sustenance for pigs and
cows. (This is based on my per-
sonal experience – not intended to be
authoritative. No righteous-indignation mail
please.) Obviously those making
such a ridiculous assessment have yet to spend a
summer feasting on fresh
sweet corn in the (U.S.) American Midwest. Makes my
mouth
water just to
think about it!
One of my
favorite cooks, authors, gardeners, and creators of beauty in general,
is a
zealous gentleman named Lee Bailey. Last I heard he was making his home
in
New York and Miami, but he is a Louisiana native. His Southern heritage
comes through
loud and clear. Among his many charms is the desire and ability
to entertain
dinner guests with ease
and grace.
As if that were not enough, Mr. Bailey is also a fellow corn aficionado. He
is, in
fact, crazy enough about corn to have written a cookbook entirely
devoted to that delectable vegetable. It is our distinct pleasure to pass
some of his favorite corn recipes on to you.
Lee Bailey's Corn
by Lee Bailey, 1993, Clarkson Potter
“I’d hazard
a guess that, along with vine-ripened tomatoes, just-picked corn
steamed on
the cob must be on the top of everyone’s Favorite Summer
Vegetables list.
O.K. O.K. I know tomatoes are technically fruit, but what
you have here is
poetic license.
Whatever, corn seems to make us all behave like kids with butter on our
noses. Remember being told to calm down because you and your cousins had
got
too rambunctious, vying to see who could chomp down and back a row
of corn
kernels the fastest? Obviously this didn’t have too much to do with
gracious
dining. This was corn as sport…”
Steamed Corn on the Cob
“Honestly, is there anyone
out there who doesn’t think
corn on the cob
is one of the best things about
summer?”
This method of
cooking corn is the best I’ve ever encountered. It eliminates
that problem
of keeping corn warm once it’s been cooked without over-
cooking. Here’s how
you do it. Use a steamer and arrange the ears standing
on the stalk ends.
Cover tightly and bring the water to a boil over high heat.
When the water
begins to steam and the lid starts to jump around, time it for
1 minute and
then turn off the heat. (If you’re using an electric stove, remove
the
steamer from the coil.) Allow the corn to continue cooking by
retained
heat
for 10 minutes more, covered (or a little longer if the corn is
not young
and fresh) before serving. It can stay like this for up to 1 hour.
Barbecued Corn on the Cob
“Barbecued corn on the cob is
specialty of Troy Wilson, chef-
owner
of
Grandville Café in Charleston, South
Carolina.”
1 cup cider
vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup Jack Daniel’s bourbon
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 tablespoons ground cumin
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 medium red onion, diced
Two 14-ounce bottles ketchup
1 1/2 teaspoons ballpark mustard
Combine all
ingredients except the ketchup, mustard, and corn in a small saucepan. Bring
to a boil, stirring, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook
for 10 minutes.
Stir in the ketchup and mustard off the heat. Let cool,
then refrigerate.
Now husk your corn, clean it, and roast it over coals. While it’s still hot,
brush it all around with the sauce.
Peppers Stuffed with Corn
“You can use green peppers
for this, but I like the way red or
yellow
ones look. And they are slightly
sweeter in taste. Either
way, choose
peppers that will stand easily.”
6 medium red or
yellow bell peppers
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons minced celery
6 tablespoons minced onion
2 cups fresh corn kernels
(scrape the cobs)
1 1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and
chopped tomatoes
1 1/2 teaspoons salt (or to taste)
Pinch of black pepper
1 cup soft bread crumbs
2 eggs, lightly beaten (or egg substitute)
1 cup shredded Emmenthaler cheese
Preheat the oven
to 350 degrees [F].
Slice off the
stem ends of the peppers and remove the seeds and mem-
branes. Place in a pot
of boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes to
soften. Drain and set
aside.
Meanwhile, melt
the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat and
cook the celery and
onion until wilted, about 5 minutes. Place in a bowl
and add
the corn,
tomatoes, salt, and pepper and toss. Toss in the bread
crumbs and then stir
in the eggs. Stuff the peppers, mounding with the
stuffing. Place in
a pan
with about 1/2 inch of hot water, top with the
cheese, and cover with oiled
foil (the underside). Bake for 50 minutes,
uncover, and bake for
another 10
minutes to brown. Serves 6.
Savory Corn Pie with a Cheese Crust
“Serve this as a main course
with a salad, as a side dish for a larger
meal –
say, with grilled meats or
sausages – or as a first course.”
Pastry
2 cups flour
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter,
cut into bits and frozen
1/4 cup solid vegetable shortening,
cut into bits and frozen
2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese
1/4 cup ice water
Filling
4 eggs (or egg substitute)
1 1/2 cups half-and-half or
evaporated skim milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
4 cups fresh corn kernels
6 thick slices bacon, cut into 1/4-inch
strips,
fried until crisp and
drained
Make the
pastry: Toss the flour and salt together in a large bowl. Cut in
the
butter, shortening, and cheese with 2 knives or a pastry blender until
the
mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in the water, mixing well but
quickly.
Divide in half and form into 2 balls. Flatten each slightly be-
tween sheets
of waxed paper and chill for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees [F].
Roll out the dough between the sheets of waxed paper and line 2 8-inch
pie
pans. Line crusts with foil and weight down with dried peas or pie
weights.
Bake for 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake another 10 minutes,
until firm.
Set aside.
Reduce oven to 350 degrees [F].
Make the filling: Combine all ingredients except bacon. Process 2 cups
of
the mixture in a food processor until smooth. Then return the purée to
the original mixture and stir it in. Divide the bacon equally between the
two partially baked shells. Pour in the filling and bake until puffy and
set,
about 40 to 45 minutes. Serves 8 to 12.
Corn Relish
“This is
another of our family recipes. My Aunt Freddie
used to make it every year.”
1/4 cup salt
2 1/2 cups sugar
One 1 1/2-ounce can dry mustard
1 tablespoon turmeric
2 quarts distilled white vinegar
20 ears of corn, kernels cut and
scraped from the cobs
1 medium cabbage, sliced
1 1/2 cups chopped green bell peppers
1 1/2 cups chopped red bell peppers
6 large onions, chopped
One 4-ounce jar pimiento, drained and chopped
4 hot red peppers, seeded and chopped
6 to 8 celery ribs, chopped
In a large pot, combine the salt, sugar, dry mustard,
turmeric, and vinegar.
Bring to a boil and add all other ingredients. Reduce
heat and simmer for
45 minutes.
Spoon the relish into hot sterilized pint jars and fill with liquid, leaving
about 1/4 inch of head space. Seal. Process for 15 minutes in a boiling
water bath. Makes 10 pints.
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