Madeleines
A tea-time treat in the French manner
Chocolatier March 1995
Text by Mary Goodbody, Recipes by Judith Sutton
“History disputes the
origin of madeleines, although no one denies that these
small, delicate
cakes were first made in France. Some say Tallyrand's pastry
cook, Avice,
invented them; others say they were made far earlier than the
19th century,
but the recipe was kept a great secret and known only to a
few. One story claims that Stanislas Leczinski, Louis XV's father-in-law,
introduced them
to the court at Versailles as early as 1730.
Who knows? We do know that these simple cakes are intrinsically French in
character - divinely simple creations made of flour, butter, eggs and sugar and
baked in a special pan. The configuration of the pan dictates that the cakes be
small, ridged and elongated (somewhat shell-like in appearance). A madeleine
in
any other form is not a madeleine.
Traditional madeleines are not particularly sweet and therefore appeal more
to adults sipping tea or coffee than to children with a yen for a sweet
treat. We
have developed five variations on the traditional madeleine, all
of which are
somewhat sweeter than the original but equally tender and
enticing. The
Lemon-Poppy Seed Madeleines are tartly sweet, while the Brown
Sugar-Pecan Madeleines taste slightly of sweet praline candy. The
Bittersweet Chocolate Madeleine is made with melted chocolate for a rich
intense flavor, and the
Chocolate Chip Madeleines, made with mini chocolate
chips, speak deliciously
for themselves. Finally, the Orange Madeleines may
or may not be dipped in chocolate, depending on your preference. Either
way, they are delectable.
Making madeleines is easy, but you must allow at least 30 minutes for the
dough
to chill. Otherwise, during baking, the batter will not rise into the
traditional
peak so necessary for a perfect madeleine. Madeleine pans are
sold in cookware stores
and some of the newer are nonstick, which makes
baking these treasures
easier
than ever.”
Chocolate Chip Madeleines
8 tablespoons
unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch of salt
3 large eggs, at room temperature
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup mini semisweet chocolate chips
1. In a small
heavy saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat just until
very light
golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove from the
heat and let
cool until tepid.
2. In a small bowl, using a wire whisk, stir together the flour, baking
powder and salt until well blended.
3. In a large bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer beat the eggs and sugar
at medium-high speed until the mixture has tripled in volume and forms a
thick ribbon when the beaters are lifted. Lower the speed to medium and
beat
in
the vanilla extract.
4. Using a large rubber spatula, fold the flour mixture into the beaten eggs
in 3 additions. Fold in the cooled melted butter in 3 additions, then fold
in the chocolate chips. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes, until
slightly
firm.
5. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375
degrees F. Generously butter two 12-mold madeleine pans. Dust the
molds with
flour and tap out the excess.
6. Drop a generous tablespoonful of the batter into the center of each
prepared mold, leaving the batter mounded in the center. (This will
result in the typical "humped" appearance of the madeleines.)
7. Bake the madeleines for 12 to 15 minutes, until the edges are golden
brown and the centers spring back when lightly touched; switch the
positions
of the pans halfway through the baking time for even baking.
8. Remove the pans from the oven and rap each pan sharply against a
countertop to release the madeleines. Transfer the madeleines, smooth
sides
up, to wire racks to cool. The madeleines can be stored in an air-
tight
container at room temperature for 2 to 3 days or frozen, well
wrapped, for
up to 1 month.
Bittersweet Chocolate Madeleines
8 tablespoons
unsalted butter
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch of salt
3 large eggs, at room temperature
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Confectioner's sugar for dusting
1. In a small
heavy saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat just until
very light
golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove from the
heat and let
cool until tepid.
2. Meanwhile, place coarsely chopped chocolate in the top of a double
boiler
over hot, not simmering, water. Melt the chocolate, stirring until
smooth.
(Chocolate that has been overheated may scorch, lose flavor
and turn coarse
and grainy. Stir melting chocolate after it has begun to
liquefy. Because of
the sensitivity of milk solids to heat, milk and
white chocolates should be
stirred almost constantly while dark choc-
olate need only be stirred
frequently during melting.) Let cool slightly.
3. In a small bowl, using a wire whisk, stir together the flour, baking
powder and salt until well blended.
4. In a large bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer beat the eggs and sugar
at medium-high speed until the mixture has tripled in volume and forms a
thick ribbon when the beaters are lifted. Lower the speed to medium and
beat
in
the vanilla extract.
5. Using a large rubber spatula, fold the flour mixture into the beaten eggs
in 3 additions. Fold in the cooled melted butter in 3 additions, then fold
in the melted chocolate. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes, until
slightly firm.
6. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375
degrees F. Generously butter two 12-mold madeleine pans. Dust the
molds with
flour and tap out the excess.
7. Drop a generous tablespoonful of the batter into the center of each
prepared mold, leaving the batter mounded in the center. (This will
result in the typical "humped" appearance of the madeleines.)
8. Bake the madeleines for 15 to 18 minutes, until the edges are golden
brown and the centers spring back when lightly touched; switch the
positions
of the pans halfway through the baking time for even baking.
9. Remove the pans from the oven and rap each pan sharply against a
countertop to release the madeleines. Transfer the madeleines, smooth
sides
up, to wire racks to cool. The madeleines can be stored in an air-
tight
container at room temperature for 2 to 3 days or frozen, well
wrapped, for
up to 1 month.
10. Just before serving, dust the madeleines generously with
confectioner's
sugar.
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