Spoonful II
Patrick Day
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La Belle Cuisine - More Seafood Recipes

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"To cook is to create. And to create well...is an act of integrity, and faith."

Charlie Trotter's Lobster en Barigoule

“You can contemplate food on an intellectual level, but ultimately it is
a sensuous experience and it is perhaps best to enjoy it that way.”
~ Charlie Trotter

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Le Homard
I. Lane
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Charlie Trotter's
Seafood

Chef Trotter in one of the three wine cellars that currently store over 25,000 bottles of wine in temperature- and humidity-controlled environments.

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Still Life Lobster and Jug
Abraham Van Beyeren
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Lobster en Barigoule


The Kitchen Sessions with Charlie Trotter
by Charlie Trotter, 1999, Ten Speed Press

“This dish, which originated in the south of France, has delicate overtones, yet it simultaneously has a lot of presence! The braised artichokes, carrots and onions mingle in an elegant broth that is subtly sweetened with tarragon. I use lobster instead of the traditional red snapper because I enjoy the richness and decadence it creates. While potatoes and haricots verts are not found in original barigoules, they fit in nicely and provide enough substance to make this dish a meal in itself.”

Serves 4

1/2 cup chopped carrots
1/2 cup chopped celery
1 1/2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup chopped onions
2 tablespoons canola oil
12 baby artichokes, trimmed
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter
1 lemon, halved
2 quarts chicken stock
1 small Spanish onion
1/2 cup white wine
1 1/2 cups sliced carrots
3 cups fingerling (or small red or white) potatoes
1 cup blanched haricots verts, cut into 1-inch-diagonal-cut pieces
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup fresh tarragon leaves, chopped
1/4 cup fresh parsley leaves, chopped
Salt and pepper
4 small lobster tails, boiled, shelled, and sliced into medallions
1/4 cup Red Bell Pepper Mayonnaise (recipe follows)

Method

To prepare the artichokes:  Cook the chopped carrots, celery, garlic, and onions in the canola oil in a large saucepan for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are caramelized. Add the baby artichokes, 1/4 cup of the butter, and the lemon halves, and cover with the stock. Place a towel or a piece of parchment paper over the pan to cover. Bring the liquid to a slow simmer and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender. Remove the artichokes from the liquid and set aside to cool. Strain the liquid, discarding the solids, and set the liquid aside. Slice the artichokes in half lengthwise (or into bite-sized pieces if using larger artichokes).
To prepare the potatoes:  Peel the potatoes and boil in salted water for 7 to 10 minutes, or until just cooked. Drain the water and cut the potatoes into bite-sized wedges.
To prepare the barigoule:  Cut the Spanish onion into thick strips and sweat in 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the onions are translucent. Add the white wine and cook for 5 minutes, or until reduced by half. Add the sliced carrots, the potato wedges, haricots verts, artichokes, and the reserved cooking liquid from the artichokes. Bring the liquid to a simmer and add the rice wine vinegar, tarragon, and parsley. Whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup butter and season to taste with salt and pepper.
To warm the lobster:  Place the lobster medallions on a sheet pan and heat in the oven at 350 degrees [F.] for 2 to 3 minutes, or until warm.
Assembly – Ladle some of the barigoule into each bowl. Arrange some of the lobster in each bowl and place 1 tablespoon of the Red Bell Pepper Mayonnaise over the lobster. Top with freshly ground black pepper.

Wine Notes – This dish requires a wine with enough acidity to balance the sweetness of the rouille [Red Bell Pepper Mayonnaise], and enough richness to offset the acidity of the artichokes. A high-acid Chardonnay with toasty oak by Mount Eden Vineyards will mesh beautifully with this dish.

Red Bell Pepper Mayonnaise

Yield: about 3/4 cup
2 red bell peppers, juiced (if you don’t have a juicer, the pieces of roasted
red bell pepper can be puréed with the mayonnaise)
1/2 cup mayonnaise
Salt and pepper

Method – Simmer the bell pepper juice over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until reduced to 1/4 cup. Remove from the heat and refrigerate for 30 minutes, or until cool. Purée the reduced juice into the mayonnaise until completely combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

More from Chef Charlie Trotter!
 

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