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Between Meals:
An Appetite for Paris
Herbes, Persil
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La Belle Cuisine
“Côte Rôtie was my darling.
Drinking it, I fancied I could see that literally
roasting but
miraculously green hillside, popping with goodness, like the
skin of a
roasting duck, while little wine-colored devils chased little nymphs
along
its simmering rivulets of wine.”
~ A. J. Liebling, '
Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris'
Canard Rôti à l’Ancienne Brasserie Flo
(Brasserie Flo’s Roast Duck with
Tomatoes, Olives and
Mushrooms)
Bistro Cooking
by Patricia Wells, 1989, Workman Publishing
“What a
wonderful way to prepare duck! Simply roast it, so you have all
the
advantage of that crispy wonderful skin. Then serve it with a vibrant
sauce
of tomatoes, mushrooms, and olives. This recipe, from the popular
Paris
restaurant, Brasserie Flo, is not complicated to make, but takes
some
coordinating in the kitchen. I like to prepare it when a group of
us is cooing together, so each cook can take a different assignment. With
this,
serve a young, chilled red wine, such as a Beaujolais cru, Juliénas.”
Duck:
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and cubed
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 roasting duck (about 4 1/2 pounds;
2.25 kg), trussed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable sauce:
1 pound (500 g) onions, minced
1 pound (500 g) mushrooms,
cleaned, trimmed, and sliced
4 pound (2 kg) tomatoes, peeled,
cored, quartered, and seeded
1 tablespoon Herbes de Provence
(recipe follows)
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 bouquet garni:
Several sprigs of fresh parsley
and fresh thyme, 8 whole
peppercorns, and 2 imported
bay leaves tied in a double
thickness of
cheesecloth
1/2 cup (100 g) green olives,
preferably picholine, pitted
1/2 cup (100 g) oil-cured black olives,
preferably form Nyons, pitted
Chopped fresh parsley
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (205 degrees C).
2. Prepare the duck: Place a rack in a roasting pan and scatter the
carrot
and onion over the bottom of the pan. Season the duck generously
with
salt and pepper. Place the bird, breast side down, on the rack.
Roast for 30
minutes, basting the bird every 5 or 10 minutes.
3. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C). Turn
the duck
breast side up. Continue to roast and baste until the juices
run clear when
you pierce the high with a skewer, about 45 more
minutes. If you find that
the breast is brown before the bird is
cooked through, cover it loosely with
foil.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: In a large nonreactive skillet, heat
the
oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the onions and
cook
until soft but not browned, 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms,
tomatoes, herbs,
garlic, olives, and bouquet garni. Season with salt
and pepper. Lower the
heat, cover, and simmer, stirring from time to
time, for 1 hour.
5. When the duck is cooked, remove it and the rack to a carving board.
Place the roasting pan over medium-high heat, and add several table-
spoons of
water. Deglaze, scraping up any browned bits from the
bottom of the pan.
Boil, uncovered, for 5 minutes.
6. To serve, transfer the vegetable sauce, removing the bouquet garni,
to a large, warmed platter. Carve the duck and place the duck pieces
on top.
Sprinkle with the parsley and serve. Strain the pan drippings
into a
sauceboat and pass separately. Serve immediately.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Herbes de Provence
(Mixed Herbs from Provence)
”This
fragrant, heavenly herb mixture is used liberally in all
French cooking, not
just in Provence. It is essential in preparing
a well-seasoned pork terrine
and is also wonderful to have on
hand to add to grilled meat marinades or to
toss in green salads
and vinaigrettes.”
2 heaping tablespoons dried thyme
1 heaping tablespoon dried oregano
1 heaping tablespoon dried summer savory
2 heaping tablespoons dried marjoram
Mix together the herbs in a small bowl. Place in a jar and
seal well.
Store away from direct sunlight, if possible.
Yield: 1/2 cup (12.5 cl) herbs
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