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Tendrons de Veau Le Caméléon
(Braised Veal with Fresh Pasta)
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“Standing there I wondered how
much of what we felt on the bridge
was just hunger. I asked my wife and
she said, ‘I don’t know, Tatie.
There are so many
kinds of hunger… memory
is hunger.’ “
~ Ernest Hemingway,
outside the restaurant Michaud
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Bistrot du Peintre, Art Nouveau Decor, Paris, France
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La Belle Cuisine
Tendrons de
Veau Le Caméléon
(Braised Veal with Fresh Pasta)
Bistro Cooking
by Patricia Wells, 1989,
Workman Publishing Co., Inc.
“In France, one of the most popular cuts of veal for
stewing is ‘tendron’,
the
portion of the breast that contains the
cartilaginous rib-like portions
that
visibly resemble pork spare ribs when
cooked. For this recipe, you
can choose
from any number of good cuts of
stewing veal, including the
breast (known in France as ‘poitrine’ or ‘tendron’),
the short ribs (‘haut de
côtes’), veal shoulder
and shoulder chops (‘épaule’
or ‘côtes découvertes’),
and the heel of round or
shank (‘gîte a la noix’ or
‘jarret’). This is one of
my favorite bistro dishes (both
to prepare and to
eat!) and I order it often
when I go to the popular Paris bistro
Le Caméléon.
With it, I usually
drink the fruity red Saumur-Champigny from
the Loire.”
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 pounds (1 kg) breast of veal with the bone
(ask your butcher to cut
across
the lower breast
portion to make several strips of equal width)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (25 cl) dry white wine
4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into rounds
2 medium onions, cut into rings
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 imported bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 large can (28 ounces; 794 g) Italian plum
tomatoes, with their liquid
1 pound (500 g) fresh fettuccine (obviously you
can use dried pasta
here,
just don’t expect the
result to be quite the same)
Small handful flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1. Heat the oil in a nonreactive,
deep-sided, 12-inch (30 cm) skillet
over medium-high heat. When the oil is
hot, begin to brown the
veal in
batches
on both sides; do not crowd the pan.
Be patient
when browning; good browning is essential for the veal to retain
all of its flavor.
The meat
should take about 5 minutes to brown
each batch. Carefully regulate the
heat to avoid scorching the
meat. As each batch is
browned, remove
the veal to a platter
and season generously with
salt and
pepper.
2. When all of the veal is browned, pour
out the fat from the skillet.
Return
all of the meat to the pan. Add the
wine, carrots, onions,
garlic, bay
leaves, thyme, and tomatoes. Bring to a
boil over high
heat. Reduce the
heat to low. Cover and simmer until the meat
is
very tender and the liquid
is transformed into a thick, delicious
sauce,
about 1 1/2 hours. Keep an
eye on the pan, making sure
the liquid remains at
a quiet, gentle simmer.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water
to a rolling boil. Salt the
water,
add the pasta, and cook just until
tender. Drain. Place
the
pasta on a
large, warmed serving platter.
4. Using a flat metal strainer, remove the
veal from the pan; place
on
top of the pasta. Strain the sauce through a
sieve. Pour the
sauce
over the veal. Sprinkle on the parsley. Serve
immediately,
on
warmed dinner plates.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
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