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La Belle Cuisine
Rainy
Tuesday in Huntsville Soup
So there I was in
Huntsville, AL. Madison, actually. Serendipity.
An unexpected pleasure. You know how life is, right? Blessings that flow
out of seeming disaster. The rainbow after the storm.....
My computer
crashed. Just up and died. Stone cold. It was a long time
coming,
actually. All kinds of glitchy, funky stuff had been going on for
months. It was hanging in there, and I was hanging in there with
it. By
a
thin thread. A thread which finally snapped. The dreaded blue screen!
A webmistress without
a computer. Run, Chicken Little, run! The sky
is
falling in!!! Right? Well, not exactly...
After the obligatory
freaking out period had passed, I came to realize
that what I had on my
hands was not so much a catastrophe as a forced vacation. Time to do
something out of the ordinary. Like get on the road!
One phone
call did the trick. I would head for Huntsville, AL and visit my
partner in culinary crime. My dear friend and confidant. "But of course,"
he said, "I'd love to have you." So
away we went, my beautiful Sophie-
DogAngel and I, seeking adventure.
"On the road
again. Goin' places that I've never been.
Seein' things that I
may never see again..." Thank you, Willie! What a beautiful idea it
is, what
an awesome concept. Marvelous and filled with promise.
Exceeded only by
the reality of the journey itself. Is it any wonder they
write songs about it?
And books. A mystical, magical thing, the road. It
makes the heart beat
faster, the blood flow more swiftly. Anticipation...
But what about the
soup, you're wondering! Ah yes, the soup... There
is an old Spanish proverb which states: "Of
soup and love, soup is best." Hmmmm. Perhaps,
but not necessarily. But
it runs a very close
second.
And it certainly has no equal when it comes to comfort food on
a
cold
rainy day.
The weekend had offered weather straight from the gods, gratefully
accepted and appreciated by my companion and myself. Not to mention our
bevy of
beasties. Tuesday, however, was a totally different story.
It was a soup day for sure. No question about it.
Germany weather. You know. There’s a chill
in
the air, highs have been
in the 40s or low 50s for at least a couple of days.
And it’s still
raining. Cold and damp. The kind of weather that chills you to
the
bone. We must have a pot of soup today, because nothing else will do.
It’s just that simple.
The only question remaining, then, is what kind of
soup. Here’s how it
went down. The newly arrived
Commander's Kitchen: Take Home the True Taste of New Orleans with More than 150 Recipes from Commander's Palace Restaurant
is still lying on the dining room table,
unchristened.
It beckons invitingly.
Soups:
Bouillabaisse – nope, we don’t have the majority of the
ingredients
on hand.
Cauliflower and Brie – hmmmm…an excellent possibility.
Crab and Corn Bisque
–
sounds yummy, but will the fresh crab
be readily available?
Creole Tomato and Fennel
–
ohmigod! However, this is definitely
not tomato season. At least not in
northern Alabama. I’ll save this
one for LaPlace, later in the
year……
Oyster Chowder
– Lord have
mercy! But once again, it’s a question
of locating fresh oysters……
Red Bean
– another
excellent possibility. There’s even andouille
in the freezer!
Roasted Eggplant and Garlic
– excellent! But maybe another time. Somehow, this just isn’t an
eggplant day…..
Split Pea and Carrot with
Ham Hocks – probably great, but if I’m going to make any kind of split
pea soup, it will have to be
Potage St.
Germain. Not today.
"I don't like
recipes. They keep cooks from using their intuition.
And intuition is
precisely what so much of cooking is about."
~ Richard Olney
Okay. Next step. What’s in the fridge? I know
there’s lots of food
there.
How much of it has soup potential?
A bunch of white asparagus
A package of baby carrots
2 ears of corn
Leftover home-fried potatoes
Heavy cream
Portobello mushrooms – these need to be used today!
Onion
A great start, I thought. Lots of
potential here! And, of course, there’s a
lot of meat available should I
choose to move in that direction: bacon,
ham, Italian sausage, andouille,
chicken, pork... Inspiration a plenty.
Had to have some leeks, I decided, so off to the
market I went. Great
store, Publix! I wasn’t at all familiar with them
until my first visit to
Huntsville. An incredible variety of products (in
every department!)
for a mid-size southern metropolis. Of course, Huntsville, is anything
but typical of Alabama.
(Please don't take my word for it. Just check
out www.huntsville.org
for yourself, and then plan to visit. Chances
are you won't regret it.)
But I digress. Again. Came home from Publix with fennel,
fresh green
beans (small and tender-looking, bagged up, on sale for 99
cents), broc- colini, gorgeous fresh thyme and Italian parsley, in addition
to the much
sought-after leeks. Quite a haul.
So. This is approximately how the Rainy Tuesday in
Huntsville Soup
came together. As best I can tell you. Mas o menos:
4 slices
bacon (thick), diced and sautéed
1 onion,
diced coarse
2 leeks,
washed well, drained, chopped coarse
1/2 package
baby carrots, sliced diagonally
1 small bulb
fennel
Potatoes
(leftover home fries)
1 bunch
white asparagus, sliced diagonally
(please save some tips for the topping)
Fresh green
beans, about 3/4 pound,
cut into 1-inch pieces
2 ears fresh
corn, cut from the cob
1 bunch
broccolini, cleaned, trimmed, chopped
Emeril’s Essence (or reasonable facsimile)
Dry white
wine (I used what we had on
hand – white Zinfandel)
Chicken
stock or canned broth
Fresh thyme
Italian
parsley
1 cup heavy
cream
1 head
garlic, roasted
Butter
8 ounces
Portobello mushrooms
A sprig of
fresh thyme
Reserved
fennel fronds
Reserved
asparagus tips
Additional
wine and a sprig of fresh thyme
Fennel
fronds for garnish
This is the
most difficult part of writing a recipe. The method, when you
are winging
it. Remembering what you did, when and how. Well, start
with the bacon, of
course. In a large Dutch oven or stockpot.
Naturally,
you’ll want to give it several stirs while
you’re frying it up, to prevent
sticking, as well as to ensure that it
cooks evenly, right? When the bacon
is crisp, add the onion, stir well, and
continue sautéing until the onion
has turned golden. Remove the stalks and fronds from the fennel bulb.
Clean and trim
the bulb. Chop the bulb and stalks into fine dice. Mince
the fronds and
reserve them to be included in the topping. Then add
the chopped fennel to the
pot.
About those home-fried
potatoes... what can I say? You don’t just happen
to have any on hand? No problem. Just peel (if you must) and dice a potato
or two
and toss them into the pot along with the asparagus, green beans,
corn and broccolini
(or whatever veggies you may have come up
with).
Stir the
vegetables together and toss in a generous teaspoon of
Essence
or some such bold seasoning. Bam!
The next
step is to deglaze the mixture with wine. I probably used about 1/2 cup.
You don’t really need to measure it though. Just pour in enough white
wine to cover the bottom of the pot by at least 1/2 an inch. Turn the heat
to high. The idea is to bring the
liquid in the pan to the boiling point and stir to loosen any browned bits
of food on the bottom. This is an excellent flavor enhancer and a must for
soup, in my book anyway.
Now it’s
time to add the chicken stock/broth. Too bad I did not measure it,
but I would guess I used about 2 quarts. If that doesn’t look like
enough
to you, add some more. This is supposed to be fun, and the soup is
going
to taste great. (Especially if you loosen up and have fun with it!).
Now add
some minced fresh thyme (at least a couple of teaspoons) and an
equal
amount or more of parsley. Stir the soup well. Cover the pot, reduce the
heat to low and allow the soup to simmer
for at least 1 1/2 hours. Check
it once in a while to make sure that it
isn’t cooking too fast, and give it a
stir
or two. With loving care,
please. That will make all the difference. And
besides, you’ll be doing
yourself a favor, since every time you uncover the
pot and
give the soup a
stir, you’ll be treated to an extra up-close-and-
personal
whiff of a
magnificent aroma!
When the
soup has cooked enough to suit you, it’s time to give it a semi-purée.
If you don’t have an immersion blender, please use this recipe as
an
excuse to buy one. They’re WONDERFUL! In addition to being readily
available and relatively inexpensive. This way, all you have to do is
lower
the blender into the soup and let it do its magic. But please. Do not
make pabulum out of this soup (unless, of course, you’re
making it specifically
to feed a baby.) I like to do what I call a half-purée with this kind of soup.
That
way it has a marvelous texture and consistency, with some identifiable
pieces of vegetables intact.
Should you
not be so fortunate as to be the proud owner of an immersion blender, then
you’ll need to go to a bit more trouble in the puréeing. Please
do it
anyway, okay? It’s important in this case to allow the soup to cool
down
- or to be especially careful in the process. Burned hands are no fun,
right? Add the soup – in batches – to either the work bowl of your
food processor or the standard container of your blender and purée as
above.
Please remember to be careful not to fill the work bowl or blender
too full. Otherwise, you’ll have one fine mess to clean up. Of course,
you’re going
to need a large bowl – or another pot – to contain the puréed
soup until
you’re ready to pour the whole batch back into the
soup pot. This in itself
was enough to encourage me to buy an immersion
blender. Easier clean-up
in addition to being a time-saver.
Okay, now
it’s time to “adjust the seasoning”. Obviously, this will require
tasting on your part. You might need additional Emeril’s seasoning, or
just
a tad more salt, perhaps. Freshly ground black pepper. You may wish to
add more thyme and/or parsley. Then,
for the crowning touch, stir in the
roasted garlic (which is soft and
mushy, right?) and the cream and stir
well. Voila!
It’s soup!
I didn’t
really want to include the Portobello mushrooms in the soup, as
I wanted
them to have a life of their own. So I decided to use them as a topping. In a medium skillet, melt about 3 tablespoons or so of
butter. Add
the coarsely chopped mushrooms and sauté them until they have
released
their liquid and most of it has boiled away. Then add the
asparagus tips,
the thyme sprig and fennel fronds and continue to cook the
mixture until
the asparagus is just tender. Deglaze with about 1/4 cup or
so of wine.
Taste for seasoning – you’ll need to add a bit of salt, or
perhaps kick it
up a notch
with Emeril. Add a generous dollop of the
topping to each
serving of soup.
Be prepared for compliments! Raves, even…
If you’re
very, very fortunate, you’ll be sharing this soup with a gentle-
man friend who will surprise you by showing up with the ingredients for
a yummy “Kaesebrot”,
which he will insist on preparing himself, while
he pours you
a glass of
excellent white wine and tells you all about his
day. If not, then
you
might want to consider making some
garlic bread
to accompany the
soup. Or
a loaf of excellent French bread partnered
with
some truly excellent butter. Please don’t forget to light a candle or
two
and
indulge your senses even further with your favorite music.
Relax. Enjoy.
Remind
yourself that life is good, and that soup soothes
the soul.
"The first Mrs.
Astor, the Mrs. Astor, was a true eccentric. . . Mrs. Astor made
herself famous in social circles and infamous in culinary circles by
putting
down
that great masterpiece of the dining art - soup. Mrs. Astor
didn't serve
soup at
her famous dinners. . . she even said, 'Why would
anyone want to put
their dinner
on top of a lake?' Well, all I can say
about Mrs. Astor is, what
did she know about love, having married for
money? Soup is a mainstay of
civilization. It is a creative synthesis of
flavors and textures, served in a
comforting, back-to-childhood style;
or
as a precise and perfectly elegant
beginning to the shape of things to
come. . .
free-lancers of every stripe
cannot live without it. By
that I mean writers, artists,
inventors and
confined
housewives. Lives
have been saved by soup....."
~ Liz Smith
(from the foreword to 'Lee Bailey's Soup Meals')
Amen, Sister Liz!
Michele
"It
seems to me that our three basic needs, for food and security and love,
are so
mixed and mingled and entwined that we cannot straightly think
of one without
the others. So it happens that when I write of hunger, I
am really writing about
love and the hunger for it, and warmth and the
love
of it and the hunger for it…
and then the warmth and richness and
fine reality of hunger satisfied… and it
is all one."
~ M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating
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