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Le Cafe Rouge
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Curilova, Ludmila
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Cafe Griensteidl, Vienna, 1890
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Volkel, Reinhold
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La Belle Cuisine
"Coffee falls into the stomach ... ideas begin to
move, things
remembered
arrive
at full gallop ... the shafts of wit start up
like
sharp-shooters, similes
arise,
the paper is covered with ink ...
~ Honore
de Balzac
Nothing bad could ever happen to me in a
café…
Yes, that's
what I said. Nothing bad could ever happen to me in a café.
And I do
not mean the “Good Eats Café”, or even the home-cooking-type diner/cafe. I
mean café as in Café, as in Kaffeehaus, that most venerable
and beloved
European institution.
This thought came
to me this morning as I was huddled under the covers, awaiting the passing
of a typical summer-in-south-Louisiana thunderstorm. Came out of nowhere.
Sudden and intense. Thunder cracking, booming, rolling, rambling. Rain pounding,
gushing, torrential. (God is in charge.
All is well. And so it is!) “Wish I
were in my favorite café,” I thought.
“Nothing bad could ever happen to me
there…”
“Balderdash!”
you may be thinking. “Of course it could…” Doubt not, oh
ye of little faith.
Enough. I will not hear of it. Naysayers are everywhere, a dime a dozen. There
is always someone out there to drag you down when
you are flying high.
Please do not bother, for your efforts will be in vain. I believe. I am
convinced, I am persuaded. I know what I know.
And just what is
it about my conviction that is so compelling as to spit in
the face of
logic? Simple. A café, a Kaffeehaus (let’s just stick with that appellation,
shall we) is a haven. A place for relaxation, contemplation, rejuvenation,
inspiration, consolation. A place for reading or writing, or
people-watching. Pleasant conversation perhaps, but only if you are so
inclined. A refuge, if you will.
A home away from home. In many ways it is better than home, for in
your
favorite Kaffeehaus, the cares of home are left behind. The nagging worries of the mundane dissipate as you make your entrance into a more tranquil
world.
This is freeing, of course. As well as intellectually
stimulating and downright inspirational. Your now clutter-free mind can concentrate on
things dear to
your heart. Great novels have been written in coffeehouses,
operas and symphonies have been conceived; great works of art in all genres
have been debated and nurtured into fruition. And yes. Revolutions have been
plotted, dictators denounced, despots dethroned as well. Coffeehouses are reputed
to
be fertile ground for the growth of things both artistic and radical. Thus
it came to pass that coffee, coffee-drinkers and coffeehouses were
considered subversive and therefore feared by the establishment. Mon dieu!
Joie de
vivre and free thinking could lead to anything…
And fear often leads to fanaticism. According to Claudia
Roden’s
 
Coffee: a Connoisseur's Companion
(1994, Random House)
 
“ 'A Women’s Petition Against Coffee' was published in London
in 1674, complaining that men were never to be found at home during times of
domestic
crisis since they were always in the coffee houses, and that
the
drink rendered
them impotent.”
Whoa! And the trouble did not end there. Not only
were coffeehouses
held responsible for the disruption of domestic
tranquility, but also for
the ruffling of royal feathers:
“Frederick the Great, annoyed with the great sums of
money going to foreign
coffee merchants, issued the following declaration in
1777: ‘It is disgusting to
note the increase in the quantity of coffee used
by my subjects and the amount
of money that goes out of the country in
consequence. If possible this must be prevented. My people must drink beer.
His Majesty was brought up on beer.
And so were his officers. Many battles
have been fought and won by soldiers nourished on beer; and the king does
not believe that coffee-drinking soldiers
can be depended upon to endure
hardships or to beat his enemies in case of
the occurrence of another war.’
"
But enough of
politics. Back to the comfort zone... A Kaffeehaus is
a welcoming place. It embraces you. (If you do not sense this, then you are
simply in the wrong one. You have yet to find your Kaffeehaus. Just
keep looking.) Over time, you will settle in. You will find your favorite
table,
and it will become your Stammtisch, which is to say your regular table.
You will simply gravitate towards
it. You will soon be addressing the staff
by name. And they you, of course,
should you care to introduce yourself. They will admire your dog (of
course dogs are allowed!) They will
never,
ever rush you, no matter how long
you choose to linger over your very
favorite newspaper (which the Kaffeehaus
provides). If you are in a hurry,
then hie your way to a Steh-Café, an
espresso-bar sort of place, get your
quick fix, and leave us in peace to
create.
Case in point:
Bad Homburg, Germany. Café Eiding. My chosen Kaffeehaus. (Now there’s a
thought – did I choose it, or did it choose me?) In any case, it became my
refuge. Soothed my frazzled nerves on many a blessed occasion. Bad Homburg,
of course, has many coffeehouses. Believe me, I tried them
all. None bad,
each with its own particular charm. Croissants better at this
one, Broetchen
better at that one. But for whatever esoteric reason, it was
Café Eiding
that reached out and grabbed me. Embraced me. Enticed me.
As do many fine
coffeehouses the world over, this one has laid claim
to a
fine corner
location. This particular corner has the added advantage
of being
at least
somewhat removed from the main flow of traffic and
general hustle-bustle.
And in the summer, Herr Eiding opens the terrace,
where his guests
are
treated not only to Eiskaffee and all manner of
other ice cream treats
(in
addition to the usual bill of fare), but also to
a fantastic view of the
Taunus Mountains. (Not the Alps, mind you,
but mountains just the same. Old
mountains.)
Some would say
that I called Café Eiding my own simply because Herr
Eiding and staff make
the best
Schwarzwaelder
Kirschtorte on the planet
(that is to say Black Forest Cherry Cake, for those of you who have not
yet
had the pleasure - a delectable combination of chocolate, dark cherries,
Kirschwasser and whipped cream). To die for. That
in itself would have
been reason
enough, this particular heavenly torte being, in my opinion,
the
quintessential dessert. But somehow there was more. Cannot quite put
my
finger on it. It just felt right. Cozy, warm, safe. Reassuring. Nurturing.
Nothing bad
could ever happen to me there…
Upon entering
Café Eiding, you are greeted immediately by the pastry
display case, laden
with all manner of baked delicacies beyond descrip-
tion.
This, of course, in
addition to the rich, heady aroma of freshly
brewed
strong, rich coffee.
Heaven. And you feel, perhaps, somewhat
akin to a
child in a toy store. Such
riches, such treasures! Where to begin? Schwarzwaelder Kirschtorte for me.
Goes without saying. (Herr Eiding
was already pulling it out of the case
when he saw me coming.) But I do
manage to deviate now
and again. Rich and creamy Frankfurter Kranz, perhaps. Or
Bienenstich (Beesting), one of my
all-time favorites. And
always a variety of things chocolaty, sometimes with
hazelnuts or almonds.
Nusstorte. And something almost ethereal called Kaesesahnetorte. Not a cheesecake, but layers of génoise filled with a
cheesecake-like filling, light
and creamy. And yes, there is a German
version of cheesecake offered as
well, called Kaesekuchen. Denser than its
American cousin. The infamous
Punschtorte (in which the sponge cake layers
are heavily doused with rum
punch syrup). And if you are exceedingly
fortunate, you may encounter a
delicacy called Eierliqueurtorte, such as the
one served to me in another
life
in the tiny village of Obermaiselstein
nestled in the Allgaeuer Alps of southwestern Germany.
Are you drooling yet?
The offerings in
coffeehouses vary to a degree with the seasons, as well
they should. Seems
that Europeans in general are much more season
conscious than we, and
therefore lead lives more in touch with seasonal changes. Makes sense, does
it not?. You are sure to find Stollen in the
winter. What would the
Christmas Season be without it? And Faschings-krapfen (Carnival Doughnuts)
during the Carnival (Mardi Gras) season.
Does surprise you to know that
Germany takes the Carnival season Very Seriously? Ja wohl! Fasching begins
at precisely 11:11 on 11 November
and continues, of course, right up until
the midnight separating Fat Tuesday from Ash Wednesday. Mainz and Cologne
are very festive indeed, reveling
in tomfoolery.
Gluehwein is served in
coffeehouses at this time of year as
well as from small stands along Fasching parade routes. But I digress…
Seasons. You can
count on being offered either a yeast- or short-crust-dough based fruit
Kuchen throughout the spring and summer, depending on what fruit is at its
peak. Erdbeerkuchen and Erdbeersahnetorte when strawberries are at their
sweetest and juiciest. Rhubarb. Cherries. Plums. And most coffeehouses and
bakeries let their imaginations and artistic penchant run
wild with
assortments of fruit atop a sponge base, lightly glazed, and topped with
whipped cream when served. Beautiful, and mouthwateringly delicious.
No way can I
write about coffeehouses without including two more favorites. One because
it epitomizes for me the typical, classic European Kaffeehaus. And the other
because it was my very first Kaffeehaus love affair. We never forget our
first, do we? Ah, yes, I remember it well... Café Dinges in Mainz.
This
captivatingly beautiful, ancient city on the banks of the Rhine River is
a
delight in itself, but that is another story. It has been one of my primary
haunts since I first discovered it in the early 70s. There are two cafés
facing one another on Mainz’s primary gathering place – the Domplatz, or
cathedral square. Both cafés are acceptable, of course, but not embracing.
At least not
to me. But just around the corner, on a tiny square with a
small fountain of
its own, was Café Dinges. I say was because, alas, it is
no more. Well,
actually it is, but not really. It carries the same name, but
the management
has changed, as has its engaging charm. Be that as it may, it
was a haven
for us during the years our family lived in Jackson, MS and
vacationed at
least once a year in Germany. It became a family joke, in
fact, among my
in-laws, that if they were not quite sure where to find us on
any given day,
all they had to do was head for Café Dinges. And yes, they
did find us there
on many occasions, relaxing, resting our tired feet,
admiring our purchases,
and indulging ourselves in the very best coffee and
pastry in the Rhein-
Main area. That and basking in the glorious antiquity of
this apparently indestructible city. Would you believe that Mainz has been around for
more than
2000
years? Of course it was called Mogutiacum then (38
B.C.), a Roman stronghold
located at the confluence of the Rhine and
Main rivers. How’s
that for old?
Back to cafes,
then. The other essential Kaffeehaus still vivid in my memory is located in
Wiesbaden. Nearby, but oh so far. This elegant city, also on the banks of
the Rhine, is a totally different experience. Although the two cities surely
must have a great deal in common given their geographical proximity, Mainz and Wiesbaden
are as different in personality as coffee and tea. As
are Café Dinges and
Wiesbaden’s Café Maldaner. The Maldaner has come
to represent in my mind the
classic European Kaffeehaus. It could just as
easily be located in Vienna as
in Wiesbaden. As a matter of fact, in one of
my recent favorites, Rick
Rodgers’
KaffeeHaus: Exquisite Desserts from
the Classic Cafes of Vienna, Budapest, and Prague
,
there is a photograph
of the pastry display case at “K. u. K.
Hofzuckerbaeckerei Demel,
Vienna” (“Imperial Sugar Bakery” - the doyenne of
Vienna’s Kaffee-
haeuser, and one of the world’s foremost, to be sure) that
could easily
be mistaken for that of Wiesbaden’s Café Maldaner.
Would
that I had a photograph to show you, as I do not have room here
for a
thousand words. Just picture old-world elegance, if you will. The
atmosphere
is dark and rich at the Maldaner. Perhaps even a tad heavy.
This lady has
been around, you sense, but she has traveled well. The
rooms are paneled in
rich, dark wood. High ceilings, muted colors. The
art adorning the walls is
anything but modern. Tradition speaks loudly
here. The trappings are
somewhat worn, but in an elegant way. Some of
the wait staff could be
described in the same manner. And no, they are
not the friendliest, nor the
most courteous I’ve encountered. They are
busy and efficient and not prone
to nonsense. They have been there a
long, long time, and they might be just a wee
bit weary. But somehow it
fits. You know beyond doubt that the Maldaner
has an opulent history,
and that the story will continue. There is comfort
in that knowledge.
What
if coffee does not happen to be your cup of tea? Not a problem.
You will be
well cared for. You can depend on a good Kaffeehaus to
offer a large variety
of thirst-quenching libations: Tea, hot chocolate,
mineral water, wine,
beer, schnapps, liqueur, aperitif… Not to worry.
You’ll not go parched into
that good night. Nor will you go hungry...
Kaffeehaus
Chocolate Raspberry Dobostorte
Waldvierteler Mohntorte
Cafe
Boulud's Sacher Torte
François Payard's Chocolate-Raspberry Cake
François
Payard's Opera Cake
Be well, stay safe,
enjoy yourselves. Relax, and linger over your
favorite beverage.
Unwind. Embrace life. Smell the coffee.
And
until next time,
remember,
"Coffee
is the common man’s gold, and like gold, it brings
to every man
the feeling of luxury and nobility."
~ Abd al-Kadir
Michele
"It
seems to me that our three basic needs, for food and security and love,
are so
mixed and mingled and entwined that we cannot straightly think
of one without
the others. So it happens that when I write of hunger, I
am really writing about
love and the hunger for it, and warmth and the
love
of it and the hunger for it…
and then the warmth and richness and
fine reality of hunger satisfied… and it
is all one."
~ M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating
Cafe de la Belle Cuisine
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