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Fine Cuisine with Art Infusion

"To cook is to create. And to create well...
is an act of integrity, and faith."

 

"No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook
in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice
and menus of cooks present, the wisdom of cookbook writers."

~ Laurie Colwin

 

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My Mother's Bouquet
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East Meets West II
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Blue Ginger: East-Meets-West Cooking with Ming Tsai
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Simply Ming: Easy Techniques for East-Meets-West Meals

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Our goal is to present a recipe from one of our newest cookbooks
on a regular basis. In addition, we are preparing a list of our all-time
favorite cookbooks (many of which are now out-of-print) and in time
will present recipes from those as well.

 

Gate of Heavenly Peace in Tiananmen Square Bejing, China
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Let's hear it for Mom's home cookin'!


Mom's Secret Recipe File:
More than 125 Treasured Recipes
from the Mothers of Our Greatest Chefs

Copyright © 2004 Christopher Styler and
Women's Commission for Refugee Women and Children
(Hyperion)


Chef Ming Tsai

"My mom, Iris, was born in Beijing, China and came to America in 1946 with
her parents. The family settled in New Haven, CT, where both parents taught
Mandarin Chinese at Yale University...
My mother has always been an accomplished cook. She taught cooking classes
at the local high school in Dayton, OH, for years. In 1980, when she found
herself  with an empty best - both boys left home to attend school on the East
Coast - Mom took the advice of her students and opened a restaurant called
Mandarin Kitchen. She ran the restaurant successfully for eight years. It was
a family affair. I worked there during the summers, at jobs that ranged from
janitor to cook to manager. That's where I caught the restaurant bug, hang-
ing around the kitchens...
So many of the dishes on the menu at Blue Ginger draw their inspiration from
my early days in the kitchen withy my mother. Shrimp 3-2-1 uses a classic
Mandarin marinade of three parts vinegar to two parts sugar to one part soy
sauce. I've updated it by using three types of vinegar, but the base is pure
tradition. I have built a career on the lessons I learned all those years ago
in Dayton."


Hoisin Pork Tenderloin Sandwiches
Chef Ming Tsai
(Adapted from Blue Ginger: East-Meets-West Cooking with Ming Tsai)icon
Clarkson Potter, 1999)

Makes 4 servings

"I grew up enjoying hoisin-roasted pork. My mom would pack it into a thermos
and I send it with me to school. At first I was embarrassed by my 'different'
lunch, but I soon found myself fielding many requests for a taste. This led to
bartering and, usually, more food than I'd begun with. Thanks, Mom!"

1 cup hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons sambal oelek (see note below)
2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger
1/2 cup red wine
1/4 cup chopped scallions, white parts only
2 pork tenderloins (about 8 ounces each)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
4 large sesame seed buns
Napa Slaw (recipe follows)

Note: Sambal oelek is the most common and most popular hot chili pepper
paste used as a table condiment in China and Southeast Asia. It contains
chilies, salt, vinegar, and sometimes garlic and tamarind.

1. In a nonreactive baking dish large enough to hold the pork, combine
the hoisin sauce, sambal oelek, garlic, ginger, wine and scallions. Add
the pork and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours,
preferably overnight.
2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Season the pork with salt and
pepper. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over high heat, add the oil,
and swirl to coat the pan. When the oil shimmers, add the pork
and brown, turning once, about 5 minutes. Transfer the pork to
the oven and roast until just done, 150 degrees F inside, about
12 to 15 minutes. The interior of the pork should remain pink.
Allow the pork to rest for 5 minutes, then cut into 1/4-inch slices.
3. Halve the buns and toast lightly, if you wish. Top the bottoms with
half of the slaw. Add 6 to 8 slices of pork per sandwich and top
with the remaining slaw and bun halves. Cut the sandwiches in
half and serve.


Napa Slaw

Serves 4

1/2 cup Thai fish sauce
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
8 large basil leaves, cut lengthwise
into 1/4-inch ribbons
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 medium head napa cabbage, cut into
1/8-inch ribbons (3 cups)
1 cup shredded carrots
1 cup bean sprouts
1/2 cup scallions (green part
only), sliced 1/8 inch thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. In a large bowl, combine the fish sauce, vinegar, pepper flakes, basil
and sugar, and whisk to blend.
2. Add the cabbage, carrots, bean sprouts, and scallions and toss well.
Season with salt and pepper to taste and let rest to allow the flavors
to mingle, about 3 minutes.

 

Chinese Fire Pot
Chef Ming Tsai
(Adapted from Blue Ginger: East-Meets-West Cooking with Ming Tsai)icon
Clarkson Potter, 1999)

Makes 8 to 12 servings

"Almost every culture has a special dish that is cooked and eaten
communally, whether it is Swiss fondue, Korean barbecue, Japanese
shabu-shabu, or French raclette. Here is the Chinese version, named
after the traditional cooking vessel, a kind of chafing dish fueled
originally by charcoal. When I was growing up, it was always a treat
when we had this dish, and it was especially welcome on cold winter
nights. The steam from the huge vat of boiling chicken stock was very
good for the skin, my mom would remind us as she set it on the table."

Condiments
2 cups creamy peanut butter
2 cups Chinese sesame paste
1 cup toasted sesame oil
1 cup oyster sauce
1 cup rice wine vinegar
1 cup shaoxing wine
1 cup soy sauce
2 cups chopped scallions
2 cups chopped cilantro
1 egg per diner (optional)
1/2 cup sambal oelek (see note below)

For cooking

2 pounds soft tofu, cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 Shanghai cabbages or bok choy, roughly chopped
2 bok choy, roughly chopped
4 packages (4 ounces each) bean threads, soaked in
warm water to cover until soft, about 30 minutes
1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems removed
2 pounds flank steak, cut across the grain
into 1/8-inch slices
2 pounds boneless and skinless chicken breasts,
sliced across the grain into 1/4 x 2-inch strips
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 pounds bay scallops
2 quarts chicken stock or low-sodium
canned broth

1. Place the condiments in individual bowl or plates and bring them to the table with spoons for serving. Arrange the tofu, cabbages, bok choy,
bean threads, mushrooms, steak, chicken, shrimp, and scallops attrac-
tively on platters and bring these to the table as well.
2. Heat the stock in a large pot on the stove and, when boiling, carefully transfer it to the wok(s) or casserole(s). Bring to the table and place
on your heat sources (see Notes). Return to a boil. Before the guests
begin to cook, put a few large handfuls of the vegetables, some bean
threads, mushrooms, and tofu into the stock. All the vegetables to
cook until softened, about 6 minutes.
3. Invite your guests to take whatever condiments they wish with spoons
and prepare their own dipping sauces in their bowls. They should then
select whatever they want from the meat, chicken, and seafood platters,
and cook it in the boiling stock. Nothing requires more than 3 minutes
cooking time. As the diners retrieve their cooked meat and seafood they should also help themselves to the cooked vegetables, bean threads,
mushrooms and tofu. After everyone has been served, replenish the
wok or casserole with vegetables, tofu, and bean threads as necessary.
The stock must be kept boiling throughout the meal, so don't add too
much of any of these ingredients at one time. Allow stock to return
to a boil after each addition. If the stock level becomes too low,
replenish it with boiling water.
4. When all the ingredients have been cooked and eaten, or whenever
the guests are ready, ladle the soup into soup bowls and serve.

Notes:
Sambal oelek is the most common and most popular hot chili pepper
paste used as a table condiment in China and Southeast Asia. It
contains chilies, salt, vinegar, and sometimes garlic and tamarind.

A portable butane burner works well as the heat source. Make sure
it is set in a level position.

 

Featured Archive Recipes:
(primarily from our cookbook collection, of course!)
Braised Chinese Mushrooms for a Crowd
Char Siu (Chinese-Style Barbecued Pork)
Egg Drop Soup with Ginger-Braised Chicken
Hot and Sour Salmon with Greens
Hunan Beef
Korean Barbecued Short Ribs with
Suwon Rib Factory Secret Marinade

Kung Pao Chicken
Pho (Vietnamese Beef and Rice-Noodle Soup)
Pork Dumplings with Soy-Ginger Sauce
Satay with Peanut Dipping Sauce
Sautéed Shrimp Goan Style
Shrimp Dumplings (Dim Sum)
Stir-Fried Five Spice Tofu and Vegetables
Thai-Marinated Beef with Rice Noodles

 

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