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La Belle Cuisine
Thai-Marinated Beef with Rice Noodles
Chef
Jean-Georges Vongerichten
In Julia's Kitchen With Master Chefs
by Julia Child with Nancy Verde Barr, 1995, Alfred A. Knopf
Alibris
“This dish is quite typical of Vongerichten, and with a goodly number of
little garnishings and maneuverings – definitely one for the dedicated
and
adventurous cook. Those with a more sober approach may, of course,
include
only those elements that fit their culinary mood.
Jean-Georges’s
Thai-Marinated Beef is a splendid introduction to the
increasing number of
Asian ingredients available in our markets. The
special marinade both
flavors the meat and acts as a tenderizer. Because
the loin in already
tender, the role here is more for flavor than texture,
but
when you have to
settle for the tougher cuts, like flank, chuck blade,
and
rump, it is a
marinade to keep in mind.”
A
Note on Ingredients: If you cannot find some of the items in your market
or
in
the Asian markets in your area, either omit or substitute - for the
mushrooms,
as
an example, use whatever fresh mushrooms are available and
seem suitable.
Ingredients for 4 servings
The meat
4 well-aged and well-marbled 7- to 8-ounce top
sirloin steaks, 3/4 inch
thick
About 2 tablespoons canola oil (for the final cooking)
For the marinade (1/2 cup)
1 stalk of lemongrass, ends trimmed, stalk chopped
8 lime leaves, roughly chopped, or
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 small shallots, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 fresh Thai finger chile or jalapeño pepper
1 tablespoon each:
red curry paste, hot curry powder,
ground turmeric
1/4 cup coconut milk
(Thai canned variety preferred)
The noodles
1 pound rice noodles
For the vegetables
24 fine fresh snow peas
1 pound fresh Ijimeji mushrooms or
stemmed and diced shiitakes
Salt
1 tablespoon canola oil
For the sauce
1/2 cup
Jus-Rôti (Light Roasted Chicken-Wing Broth)
1 tablespoon green peppercorns
1 tablespoon soy sauce
For the garnish
1/4 pound (a large fistful) of fresh chives,
buds attached if possible
2 tablespoons
Red Chile Purée
Special Equipment Suggested:
An electric blender or food processor
An 8-quart kettle (for boiling the noodles)
A strainer of a size to hold the noodles
submerged in the above kettle
A ribbed cast-iron stove-top grill, a griddle,
or a heavy-bottomed frying
pan
Tongs (for turning the steaks)
A small saucepan (for the sauce)
A 10-inch frying pan (for the mushrooms
and snow peas)
A 6-inch frying pan or saucepan (for the chives)
A cutting board, a fork, and a very sharp knife
(for steak slicing)
4 warm dinner plates or a large warm platter
Preliminaries – the day before:
Marinating the meat: Trim away all fat from the outside of the
steaks. Puree the marinade ingredients in the blender or food processor and
pro-
cess until very smooth. Spread the mixture over all sides of the steaks
and
place them in one layer on a plate or in a glass or enameled baking
dish.
Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate – 4 to 6 hours at
least but
12 hours
are preferable.
Preliminaries – 2 hours before:
Soaking the noodles: Cover the noodles with warm water and let them
soak for 2 hours.
The Snow Peas, Mushrooms, and Chives: Blanch (boil) the snow peas
for 1
minute in 4 quarts of boiling water, drain at once and run cold water
into
the pan to stop the cooking and set the color. Drain them. Trim the
ends off
the mushroom clusters and then separate the mushrooms from
the clusters. Cut
the chives in half and discard the bottom half, then cut
the remaining
chives into 2-inch pieces; set aside.
The Final Cooking:
Bring 5 quarts of water to boil for the noodles. While waiting, prepare
the
following:
Seasoning the Jus-Rôti: Heat the jus in the small saucepan with the
green peppercorns and soy sauce, simmering gently for 5 minutes, then
setting it aside.
The Steaks: Preheat the grill (or griddle, or frying pan) to very hot.
Drizzle a little canola oil on both sides of the steaks and drop them onto
the hot surface. Cook for about 1 1/2 minutes, until the meat is nicely
browned on one side – the juices will begin to appear on the top. Turn
and
cook about another 1 1/2 minutes for medium rare - test by pressing
the top
of the meat with your finger: it should feel lightly springy to the
touch,
not squashy like raw meat, and not hard, like overdone meat.
Set
aside,
allowing the juices to be reabsorbed into the flesh.
Meanwhile, as soon as the noodle water is boiling, rapidly prepare the
following, juggling pans and spoons and cooking everything all at once.
The Mushrooms and Snow Peas: Pour the oil into the 10-inch frying
pan,
set over moderately high heat. And when almost smoking, toss in the
mushrooms. Salt lightly and sauté for several minutes, tossing frequently,
until they begin to brown. Then scatter in the snow peas, season with salt,
and toss for a minute or two just until well heated through. Set aside.
The Chives: Pour 2 tablespoons of water into the smaller pan, set over
high heat, and when it sizzles, add the chives and a pinch of salt. Toss
for
a moment to heat, then set aside.
The Noodles: Drain the noodles into the strainer or colander, then
sub-
merge the strainer with the noodles in the boiling water, holding them
there for 10 seconds. Drain, shake off excess water, and turn them
out
onto
your warm platter – or divide among individual plates.
The Steaks: Rapidly slice the steaks and arrange over the noodles.
Finale: Scatter the snow peas and mushrooms over the steaks and spoon
the jus over all. Drift the chiles on top, and place a heaping teaspoon of
the
chile puree in the center of the platter, or a smidgen in the center of
each
plate – pass more separately if you wish.
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