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Bill Neal: Favorite Recipes from a Life
in Cooking
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La Belle Cuisine
Herb Crust Pork Loin with
Onion Gravy
Bill Neal's Southern Cooking
William F. Neal, 1985,
The University of North Carolina
Press
"A
paste was often employed by English cooks who mastered fine
roasting
of
large cuts and
joints of meat. Southern cooks inherited
the method and,
typically, provided a more
piquant seasoning."
Yields 6 to 8 servings
1 center-cut loin of pork, on the bone,
weighing about 4
pounds
The seasoning paste:
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1/2 cup flour
1 teaspoon dried sage
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon dry ground mustard
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground
lack pepper
The sauce:
2 cups sliced onion
1/2 cup stock or water (or more
if
needed during roasting)
2 cups stock or water
2 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
1/4 cup Sherry
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Recommended equipment: A 10-inch cast-iron skillet
or enameled
cast-iron sauté pan, roasting pan, 1 1/2-quart
heavy-bottomed saucepan,
meat
thermometer, wire whisk.
Two hours (or more) before cooking, remove the roast from
refrigerator.
Trim away excess fat, leaving a 1/8 inch covering over the main part of
the
meat. Dice - very finely - enough of the fat to make 2 tablespoons
and reserve.
Across the fleshy part of the roast, cut diagonal slashes 1/4
inch
deep, 1 inch apart.
Repeat in the opposite direction to complete the
scoring. Make a similar slash on each
side of each rib. Reserve the roast
at room temperature.
Prepare the seasoning paste. Render the diced pork fat with the 2
table-
spoons of butter in the skillet or sauté pan over low heat. The butter will
brown
slightly, but do not let it burn. Stir frequently. Add the chopped
garlic and stir for 1
minute. Stir in the flour and cook slowly for 3 minutes. Season with the sage, thyme, red
pepper flakes, mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper, cooking for 1 minute more. Turn into a
bowl and let cool to room temperature.
Rub the roast well with the paste, working it into each cut; the
fleshy side should be well coated. Let sit 1 1/2 hours or more, preferably at room
temperature.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.
Scatter the sliced onions evenly over the bottom of the roasting
pan. Place
the roast on the onions, bone side down. Add the 1/2 cup stock or water to
the
pan and place in the middle of the preheated oven. Immediately reduce
heat to 325
degrees
F. and
roast for about 2 1/2 hours, basting with the pan
juices every 30 minutes. Add more liquid
to the pan as necessary.
When done to 170 degrees F. on a meat thermometer, remove the roast,
carefully, to a serving platter. Pour the onions and liquid from the roasting
pan into the
saucepan, adding all browned bits of paste or meat from the
bottom of the pan. Skim off
the fat and add the additional 2 cups of stock
or water. Measure the cornstarch into a
bowl and stir in the Sherry until smooth and free of lumps. Pour in 1/2 cup of the gravy
liquid to dissolve
the cornstarch further. Stirring with the whisk, add this mixture to
the
saucepan and bring
to a boil. Taste for salt and pepper, reduce heat to
low, and
simmer for
10 minutes.
Carve the roast and serve the sauce over the slices. Spoon Bread,
Fried
Grits, or Grits Croquettes are excellent accompaniments.
Featured Archive Recipes:
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Autumn Vegetables
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Apples and Onions
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Pot-Roasted Pork Loin in Red Wine
Standing Pork Roast with Fresh Herbs
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