Tuscan Fantasy IV
Gross, Karlheinz
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"To
cook is to create. And to create well...is an act of integrity, and faith."
Braciole di
Maiale Contadine
(Pork Chops Smothered in Creamy Onions)
“These grandmothers, le nonne, are the
keepers of memory and the
providers
of many of the sacred moments of everyday life.”
~ Carol Field
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Tuscan Valley View
P Craig
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Braciole di Maiale Contadine
(Pork Chops Smothered in Creamy Onions)
In Nonna's Kitchen: Recipes and Traditions from Italy's Grandmothers
by Carol Field, 1997, HaperCollins
Serves 4 to 6
“Emma Grassi Bensi is deep in
her eighties, stands about 5 feet tall, has red hair
cut in a pixie style,
wears huge rose-colored glasses, and reads Gente, the People magazine of
Italy. She has a deep throaty chuckle and lively appreciation of life, among
whose pleasures she counts cooking the best Tuscan country dishes, like
these pork chops in a sauce of onions that almost melt as they cook. Women
from all over Italy cook onions so slowly that they become a creamy sauce,
which is then used as a sauce for meat. The technique is common; the results
are superb.”
3 onions,
sliced very fine
4 to 5
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 to 2
tablespoons water
Salt
Freshly ground
black pepper
6 pork chops
(about 2 3/4 pounds)
All-purpose
flour with salt and pepper for dredging
1/2 cup dry
red wine
1 to 2
tablespoons unsalted butter
Put the onions
in a large, heavy skillet with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, a tablespoon
or two of water, salt, and pepper. Cover and cook them at the lowest simmer
over the lowest possible heat – use a flame tamer if you need to – for 45
minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally. At the end the onions will be soft
and creamy.
Dredge the
pork chops in seasoned flour so they won’t stick while cooking. Drizzle the
remaining oil into a heavy sauté pan large enough to hold the chops
comfortably without crowding, add the pork chops, and brown them, turning so
they cook evenly. When they have browned, 2 to 3 minutes a side, pour in the
red wine and boil until it evaporates. Put the cooked onions on top of the
pork chops, cover, and cook together briefly on top of the stove so the
flavors meld, turning the chops several times. The onions cook into a really
thick sauce; at the end puree them in a processor or blender, adding a
little water or a tablespoon or two of butter.
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