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Joël Robuchon's Macaroni
with Fresh Truffles

"If I had a son who was ready to marry, I would tell him,
'Beware of girls who don't like wine, truffles, cheese, or music.' "
~ Colette

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Joël Robuchon’s Macaroni
with Fresh Truffles
(Macaroni aux Truffes Joël Robuchon)


The Paris Cookbook
by Patricia Wells, 2001, HarperCollins

“Revered chef Joël Robuchon may have closed his restaurant in Paris, but his
presence is evident in many of the city’s kitchens. Two lieutenants – Benoît
Guichard at Jamin and Frédéric Anton at Le Pré Catelan – are following
admirably in his footsteps. This elegant macaroni dish was on the menu at
Robuchon’s final restaurant on the avenue Raymond-Poincaré, served with
simple but sublime roast chicken.”

4 servings

2 cups homemade chicken stock
1 1/4 cups whole milk
3 tablespoons sea salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
16 large macaroni, such as zitoni
(about 5 ounces total)
3 tablespoons Truffle Butter (recipe follows)
3/4 cup freshly grated Swiss Gruyère cheese
Freshly ground white pepper
4 fresh black truffles (about 3 ounces total),
cleaned and sliced into thick rounds
Minced fresh chives, for garnish

Equipment: A 6-quart saucepan; a 6-quart pasta pot
fitted with a colander; a double boiler

1. Prepare reduced chicken stock: In a 6-quart saucepan, bring the chicken
stock to a boil over high heat. (Make sure you use a large saucepan, to
prevent the stock from boiling over.) Boil until the mixture is thick and
syrupy, reduced to about 1/2 cup, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the liquid
to the top of a double boiler, set it over simmering water, cover, and
keep warm.
2. In a 6-quart pasta pot fitted with a colander, bring 3 quarts water and
the milk, sea salt, and oil to a gentle simmer over moderate heat. Do
not allow the liquid to boil, or it will boil over.) Add the macaroni and
cook just until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Life the colander from the pot
and shake gently to drain well, eliminating as much water as possible.
Reserve the cooking water. Set the pasta aside.
3. In a large nonstick skillet, melt the truffle butter over moderate heat.
Add the macaroni, taking care not to break the pasta. Add a few ladle-
fuls of the pasta cooking liquid to create a sauce. Sprinkle the cheese
evenly over the macaroni and cook, without turning, for 2 minutes.
4. Transfer the macaroni pieces to warmed individual dinner plates. Sea-
son with white pepper. Arrange the truffles between the macaroni,
and spoon the sauce over the pasta. Spoon the reserved chicken
stock around the edge of the dish. Sprinkle with chives, and serve immediately.
 

Truffle Butter
(Beurre aux Truffes)

“This incredible butter becomes an essential ingredient during the dreary
winter months! Use it whenever you would use butter in a recipe. Every-
thing from omelets to cooked lentils to macaroni to cannelloni profits from
this rich and intensely flavored concoction. And of course there’s nothing
to stop you from simply spreading it on toast!"

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons minced truffle peelings
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt

On a small plate, mash the softened butter with a fork. Sprinkle with the
truffles and coarse sea salt, distributing them as evenly as possible. Trans-
fer the butter to a ramekin and cover securely. Refrigerate for up to 3 days
or freeze for up to 1 month. Serve at room temperature.

The Mysterious Black Truffle

“Why make such a fuss over a rather gnarled and unprepossessing black tuber? Because of its rarity, its unpredictable nature, its overwhelming and unique fragrance, and its clean, crisp texture. The black truffle also plays an essen-
tial historical role in French gastronomy, finding its way into the menus of
the most renowned and memorable tables. The fact that production in France
has declined over the past hundred years, that man has not been able to repro-
duce it in laboratories, and that its sale remains a rather clandestine and
secret affair adds an air of mystery and excitement.”

Wine: I enjoy this dish with a lovely Burgundy,
such as a Savigny-lès-Beaune.

 Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of 2006

Featured Archive Recipes:
Fettuccine with Morel Mushrooms and Country Ham
Joël Robuchon's Gratin  Dauphinois
Joël Robuchon's Poulet Sauté à la Poitevine
 

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