Pineapple
Johann Christof Volckamer
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"To cook is to
create. And to create well...is an act of integrity, and faith,"
Pineapple and
Frangipane Fritters
(Beignets d'Ananas
à la Frangipane)
"The value of those wild fruits is not in
the mere possession
or eating of them,
but in the sight and enjoyment of them."
~ Henry David Thoreau
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Mottinelli, S.
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A Group of Pineapples at an Open-Air Fruit Market
Photographic Print
Gipstein, Todd
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Pineapple
and Frangipane Fritters
(Beignets d’Ananas à la Frangipane)
The Good Cook/Fruits
by The Editors of Time-Life Books,
(Chief Series Consultant: Richard Olney)
1983,
Time-Life Books, Inc.
Out of Print, Used & Rare
from
The French Menu Cookbook
by Richard Olney, (reprint) 2002, Ted Speed Press
“The author
recommends keeping the batter at the consistency of thick
cream. This will
ensure the crispness and delicacy of the fritters, but it
will also result
in a greater loss of batter during the frying process.”
“The
frangipane and the pineapple should be prepared a few hours ahead
of the
batter, which should be prepared an hour or so before the meal.
The batter
must relax to lose its elasticity, or it will refuse to coat the
pineapple
and frangipane properly.”
To serve 4
1/2 pineapple
Oil for deep
frying
Superfine
sugar
Frangipane
1 cup (1/4
liter) milk
1 vanilla bean
3 tablespoons
(45 ml) sugar
1/3 cup (75
ml) flour
1 egg, plus 1
egg yolk
2 Amaretto
cookies, crumbled
2 tablespoons
(30 ml) butter
1 tablespoon
(15 ml) pistachios, blanched,
peeled and chopped
Batter
3/4 cup (175
ml) flour
Salt
1 (5 ml)
teaspoon sugar
1 egg, the
yolk separated from the white
1/3 (75 ml)
cup tepid beer
2 tablespoons
(30 ml) butter, melted
4 to 6 (60 to
90 ml) tablespoons water
To make the
frangipane, bring the milk to a boil with the vanilla bean and sugar; let
the milk cool slightly. Sift the flour into a pan, add the whole egg
and the
egg yolk and stir with a wooden spoon, keeping the motion to the center so
that the flour is gradually absorbed into the egg. Remove the
vanilla bean
from the milk and slowly add the milk to the flour-and-egg
mixture, stirring
all the time. Cook over medium heat, continuing to stir
vigorously, until
the mixture becomes very thick. Remove from the heat,
add the crumbled
cookies, butter, and the chopped pistachios, mix well
and let the mixture
cool.
Cut the
pineapple into slices 1/3 to 1/2 inch [8 mm to 1 cm] thick; cut
each slice
into quarters, slice off the rind and woody core. Butter a plate, spread half
the frangipane over the surface, arrange the pineapple pieces
on top in
regular rows, and cover with the remaining frangipane so that
each pineapple
piece is coated. Chill until needed.
To make the
batter, put the flour, a pinch of salt and the sugar in a bowl,
add the egg
yolk and stir in the beer, adding it at two or three intervals. Stir only
until a regular consistency is achieved. Do not beat the batter. Stir in
the
melted butter and enough water to bring it to the consistency of heavy
cream. Cover the batter with a plate and leave it at room temperature until
needed. Just before using, beat the egg white until stiff and fold it gently
into the batter.
Heat the oil; when it sizzles at contact with a drop of
batter, it is ready.
Using a spatula, carefully cut through the frangipane
and lift out each piece
of coated pineapple. Drop the pineapple pieces one
at a time into the batter,
lift them out and drop them into the hot oil. Do
not fry too many at a time.
Carefully turn over the pineapple pieces with
the tines of a fork, and when
they are golden and crisp on both sides, scoop
them out with a large skim-ming spoon. Drain them on paper towels and
transfer them to the folded napkin on which they will be served. When all
are fried, sprinkle the
surface with superfine sugar and serve immediately.
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