Boulangerie
Karel Burrows
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La Belle Cuisine -
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"To cook is to
create. And to create well...is an act of integrity, and faith,"
French Country
Bread Series: Rye and Walnut
Rolls
 
"The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of
lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight..."
- M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating
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Garant, Jennifer
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Boulangerie
Brown, Betsy
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We were delighted to discover the following article in
our bread recipe archives and pleased to be able to share it with you. This
is the third in a series of six excellent recipes inspired by the
boulangers of provincial France:
French Country Breads
by Jeffrey Alford, Bon Appetit April 1992
"For a lover of
bread, looking for whole-grain loaves in the French countryside is like
going on a pilgrimage. I recently made such as journey, exploring village
markets, driving down country lanes and climbing steep cobbled streets in
search of traditional boulangeries. I found that the search was almost as
great a pleasure as the breads themselves.
Traditional boulangers have a great deal of pride in the bread they
produce. They know it's good. When I asked about a recipe, they were
always generous with information - about the oven, the quality of the flour,
the baker's attention and care. These, they all agreed, are the essential
ingredients.
Of course, it also helps if you have good recipes. And here are six
terrific ones that I created from the knowledge I gained from my fellow
bakers across the Atlantic..."
Rye and Walnut Rolls
"These
rolls can be found in towns all along the Isère River, in the heart of
walnut country (Grenoble is one of its best-known cities)."
1/2 cup warm (105 to 115 degrees F) water
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
2 cups whole-milk yogurt
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups (about) whole wheat flour
1 1/2 cups rye flour
1 cup chopped walnuts
2 teaspoons salt
Place warm water in a large bowl. Sprinkle yeast over and
stir to dissolve. Heat yogurt in heavy small saucepan over medium-low heat
until just warm to touch (105 to 115 degrees F), stirring constantly. Add yogurt to
yeast mixture. Gradually add unbleached flour and 1 cup whole wheat flour.
Stir 100 times. Cover mixture with plastic. Let stand in warm draft-free
area until springy and double in volume, about 1 hour. Stir rye flour,
walnuts and salt into yeast mixture. Add enough remaining whole wheat flour
to form dough. Knead dough on floured surface until smooth and elastic,
adding more whole wheat flour if dough is sticky, 8 minutes.
Grease clean large bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to coat
completely. Cover with plastic wrap. Let rise in warm draft-free area until
double in volume and dough does not spring back when 2 fingers are gently
pressed into side, about 2 hours. Punch dough down.
Grease large cookie sheet. Divide dough into 16 equal pieces
(about 3 1/2 ounces each). Roll each piece into ball. Transfer to prepared
cookie sheet, spacing evenly. Cover with plastic. Let rise in warm,
draft-free area until almost double in volume, about 40 minutes.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Using serrated
knife, cut crisscross atop each roll. Bake until golden brown, about 35
minutes. Cool completely.
Makes 16 rolls.
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