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La Belle Cuisine
Sourdough: Start Your Own
by Honey Lesser
Bon Appetit October 1980
Bon Appetit - One Year Subscription
"More of us are baking bread than ever before, perhaps because we've
learned
that these homemade marvels can be tailored to fit any taste - low
salt, high
fiber, preservative free.
One of the most interesting revivals
in bread baking is sourdough: Once an indispensable part of the pioneer
kitchen, it is now gaining a host of devoted
modern followers. Sourdough is
a leavening agent and, like yeast, it is a living thing. Properly cared for,
a started made from sourdough will live for years.
By following the basic
recipe below, you can raise your own sourdough starter
and use it to turn
out everything from bread and
English muffins to
pancakes
and coffee cake -
all with the zesty tart flavor and distinctive chewy texture of sourdough.
Temperature is probably the most important factor in the art of sourdough. In
too cold an environment the starter will not thrive and bubble; too hot
and the
all-important bacteria are killed. Water for the starter must be
heated to between
90
and 105 degrees F. and the initial mixture left to stand in
a draft-free are
that maintains a temperature of between 80 and 90 degrees F. The places that
usually work the best are a gas oven with pilot light (set
container near it, not
over it),
the top of a refrigerator, dryer or indoor
water heater or inside a warm
cupboard. An electric oven can also be used
if you place a small votive candle in
a bottom corner of it. Place the
starter on a rack in the upper third of the oven.
After 12 to 24 hours, the initial mixture will be curdy and have the
consistency
of yogurt. Any clear liquid that rises to the surface during
this time can simply
be stirred back in (use a wooden or plastic spoon,
never metal). But if a thin
pink
liquid comes to the top, you will have to
discard this mixture and begin
again.
Once the mixture has thickened, a small amount of flour is added. This is
the starter, which is then covered and left in that same warm environment
for up
to
four days to sour. Once the starter comes "alive", is full of
bubbles and has
a
great sour, earthy aroma, it is ready to use. Store it
covered in the refrigerator
in
a plastic or ceramic container. Do not use
glass for storage since the gases
produced during fermentation may crack or
shatter it. Always remember to
bring starter to room temperature before
using it.
The bacteria essential for fermentation of a sourdough starter are present
in
many foods. Our version uses a combination of low fat plain yogurt, warm
water
and nonfat dry milk to which flour is then added, resulting in a
par-
ticularly
active starter. Each time the starter is used, it must be
replenished
with equal amounts of flour and the milk-powder-warm water
mixture. For
instance, if you
use 1/2 cup of starter, "feed" the remainder
by adding 1/2
cup all-purpose flour
and 1/2 cup lukewarm water (90 to 105
degrees F.)
mixed with about 2 1/2 tablespoons instant nonfat dry milk. Cover and let
stand in a warm draft-free
area until the mixture is bubbly
once again, then
store covered in the refrigerator for several days before
using (this will allow
the starter to reactivate). Actually,
the starter
must be replenished after two
weeks whether it has been used or not. Simply
discard 1/2 cup and feed as
directed above.
Few people realize that freshly fed starter can be frozen up to 2 months -
ideal
for those who want starter on hand but do not bake regularly.
Freezing slows
the fermentation process. When ready to use, let starter
thaw at room temper-
ature
and then let stand in a warm draft-free area until
bubbly.
Naturally, the longer you keep a starter going, the more sour (and better!)
it
will
get. I have had one starter for seven years and instead of discarding that
1/2 cup before replenishing, I have passed it along to friends and
relatives,
starting them
out on the road to sourdough glory and gaining new bread-
baking enthusiasts
in the bargain."
Basic Sourdough Starter
1 cup lukewarm purified water
(90 to 105 degrees F.)
1/3 cup instant nonfat dry milk
3 tablespoons low fat plain yogurt
1 cup all-purpose flour
Rinse a 1 1/2- to 2-quart glass or ceramic bowl with hot
water several
minutes and wipe dry. Combine water and dry milk in bowl,
stirring until
milk is dissolved. Blend in yogurt. Cover with plastic wrap
and let stand in warm draft-free area until consistency of yogurt, about 12
to 24 hours.
Using plastic spoon, gradually add flour, blending until
smooth. Cover and
let stand in warm, draft-free area until mixture is full
of bubbles and has
sour aroma, about 2 to 4 days. The starter is now ready
to use. Store
covered in refrigerator in plastic or ceramic container (do
not use glass).
Sourdough French Bread
Sponge:
1/2 cup Basic Sourdough Starter,
room temperature
1 cup lukewarm water
(90 to 105 degrees F.)
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 to 3 tablespoons cornmeal
Boiling water
1 egg white, beaten
For sponge: Place starter in a large bowl. Stir in water, blending well.
Add 2 cups flour and mix thoroughly. Cover with plastic wrap and let
stand in warm,
draft-free area overnight.
Grease another large bowl. Add sugar and salt to sponge and mix well.
Gradually mix in remaining flour. Turn dough out onto very lightlyfloured
surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 to 10 minutes. Trans-
fer
dough to greased bowl, turning to grease all surfaces. Cover with plastic
and let stand in warm, draft-free area until doubled in volume, about 1 to
1
1/2 hours. Sprinkle baking sheet with cornmeal. Punch dough down and
shape
into loaf about 12 inches long. Transfer to baking sheet. Cover with
plastic
and let stand in warm draft-free area until doubled in volume, about
1 hour.
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 400 degrees F. Fill pie plate
or cake pan with boiling water and set in bottom of oven. Make 3 slashes
diagonally across top of loaf using top of sharp knife. Brush loaf with some
of egg white. Bake 10 minutes. Brush again with egg white. Continue bak-
ing
until loaf is nicely browned, about 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from
oven,
transfer to wire rack and let cool before slicing.
Makes one 12-inch loaf.
Featured Archive Recipes:
Iggy's Bakery's Sourdough Starter and Francese Bread
Sourdough English Muffins
Sourdough Sour Cream
Coffee Cake
Sourdough Whole Wheat Bread
King Arthur Flour's Serious Baguettes
Sourdough
Pancakes
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