Green Tea II (Deboss)
Susan Jokelson
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Veal
with Green Tea Leaves
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~ Samuel Chamberlain
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Women work in a field picking tea leaves
Paul Chesley/National Geographic Image Collection
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Veal with Green Tea Leaves
Food & Wine 1997
Food & Wine Books, Editor in Chief: Judith Hill, 1998,
American Express Publishing Corp.
2 servings
“Cooking
with tea leaves is common in China, particularly in tea-growing
regions such
as Hangzhou, where fresh leaves are readily available. The
tea contributes a
subtle flavor and aroma to the dish.”
1/3 cup brewed green tea
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon white vinegar
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons Shao-Hsing wine or dry Sherry
2 1/2 teaspoons tapioca starch
6 ounces lean veal loin
1 1/2 teaspoons Shallot Oil (recipe follows)
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons green tea leaves
1/2 cup boiling water
2 tablespoons dried cloud ear mushrooms, soaked in hot
water for 30 minutes
3/4 cup chicken stock
6 thin asparagus spears, sliced 1/4 inch thick on the diagonal
1 celery rib, cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 small scallions, white parts only, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1/4 cup finely chopped red bell pepper
1/4 cup thinly sliced water chestnuts
1. Combine the green tea, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar,
vinegar, the 2 teaspoons wine and the tapioca starch in a small bowl and set
aside.
2. Slice the veal across the grain 1/4 inch thick, then cut
the slices into
2-by-1/2-inch strips. In a small bowl, toss the veal with
1/4
teaspoon
of the Shallot Oil and the salt. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
3. Put the tea leaves in a bowl. Add the boiling water,
cover and let steep
for 10 minutes. Strain the tea, reserving only the
leaves. Thoroughly rinse
the soaked mushrooms in cold water; drain.
4. Set a wok over high heat for 30 seconds. Add the stock
and bring to a
boil. Add the mushrooms, asparagus and celery and cook until
the
asparagus is bright green, about 1 minute. Drain the vegetables and
reserve the stock for another use.
5. Wipe out the wok and set it over high heat for 40
seconds. Add the remaining 1 1/4 teaspoons of Shallot Oil and swirl to coat
the wok.
When a wisp of white smoke appears, add the scallions, ginger and
garlic and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Stir in the veal, red bell pepper,
water
chestnuts, the remaining 1 tablespoon wine and the reserved tea
leaves. Add
the mushrooms, asparagus and celery and mix thoroughly.
6. Make a well in the center of the wok, pushing everything
up the
sides slightly. Stir the sauce and add it to the wok. Stir in the
veal
and vegetables and cook until thick and bubbling. Serve immediately.
Shallot Oil: Heat a wok over high heat for 40 seconds. Add 1 cup
peanut oil and 1 pound large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to
moderate and cook, stirring frequently, until the shallots are golden and
crisp, about 10 minutes. Strain the oil. [Discard the shallots unless you
are using them in another recipe. The oil can be refrigerated separately for
up to two months.
- Eileen Yin-Fei
Lo
Wine:
This mild dish calls for a characterful, dry white with enough flavor to tie
the meat, asparagus and other ingredients together. A California Pinot Blanc,
such as the 1995 Lockwood, would work particularly well here.
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