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Roast Veal with Cèpes and Banyuls

"I am a great eater of beef, and I believe
that does harm to my wit."
~ William Shakespeare

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Roast Veal with Cèpes and Banyuls
(Rôti de Veau aux Cèpes et Banyuls)
Saveur November 2000

Serves 4

“At Cal Pai [a country farmhouse inn, Eyne, Cerdanyha, France],
Françoise Massot makes this dish with whatever wild mushrooms
she has gathered, using fresh ones in season.”

 1 1/2 ounces dried cèpes (porcini)
2 tablespoons peanut, sunflower, or vegetable oil
One 2-pound boneless shoulder veal roast,
tied by butcher
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 bunch parsley, leaves chopped
2 large sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 cup sweet banyuls or ruby port *

 1. Put mushrooms in a medium bowl, add 3 cups warm water, cover,
and set aside until the mushrooms are hydrated and soft, about 30
minutes. Remove mushrooms from liquid, and transfer to a cutting
board. Strain liquid through a coffee filter, and set aside. Coarsely
chop mushrooms, and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, heat oil in a large, heavy ovenproof pot with a tight-
fitting lid over medium-high heat. Season veal generously with salt
and pepper, add to pot, and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes.
Transfer the meat to a platter, and set aside.
3. Add onions to pot, and cook, stirring and scraping any browned bits
stuck to bottom of pot with a wooden spoon, until lightly browned,
about 3 minutes. Add reserved mushrooms and garlic, and cook about
1 minute. Add parsley, thyme, bay leaves, banyuls [or ruby port] and
1 cup of the reserved mushroom liquid, again scraping any browned
bits stuck to bottom of pot with a wooden spoon.
4. Return meat and any accumulated juices to pot, cover, reduce heat
to low, and braise until meat is tender when pierced with a fork,
about 2 1/2 hours. Transfer the meat to a cutting board, remove
strings, and carve into thick slices. Serve with mushrooms and
braising juices spooned over meat.

      * Banyuls is a fortified, Grenache-based wine from the town of the same
name on the French Catalan coast, near the Spanish border. Some
good examples of banyuls are available in the United States , but
if you can’t find it, substitute a good ruby port.

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