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Beef
with Carrots Prepared the Traditional Way
(Boeuf aux Carottes ŕ l’Ancienne)

"As he chops, cuts, slices, trims, shapes, or threads through the string,
a butcher is as good a sight to watch as a dancer or a mime."
~ Colette
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Michele Stapley
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Beef with Carrots Prepared the Traditional Way
(Boeuf aux Carottes ŕ l’Ancienne)
  Parisian Home Cooking: Conversations, Recipes, and Tips from the Cooks and Food Merchants of Paris
by Michael Roberts, 1999, William Morrow and Co.
“This is one of those venerable dishes for which every cook in Paris (and
even some non-cooks) seems to have his or her own ‘true’ recipe,
la véritable.
I’ve seen Parisians discuss at length various renditions of this dish as if,
by revealing its manner of preparation, a hitherto-unknown secret of the
cook leaked out into the sauce. Personally, I cook this dish a lot, and
here’s what I’ve found to be helpful: Use toasted flour when thickening the
broth for its nutty, caramel flavor. Use a fruitwood-smoked bacon rather
than the usual hickory-flavored type – it tastes closer to the French
lardons.
Most important, use young, sweet, organic carrots.
For after all is said, this is but a simple dish of beef and carrots.
Parsleyed buttered egg noodles always accompany it.”
Makes 5 to
6 servings
3 bay leaves
1 bunch fresh parsley
3 sprigs fresh thyme
12 peppercorns
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, preferably canola
2 1/2 pounds boneless chuck roast, cut into 2 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 pound slab bacon, cut into 3/8-inch cubes
3 medium onions, roughly diced (about 2 1/2 cups)
1 tablespoon toasted flour *
1/4 cup brandy
3 cups dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
1 cup cold water, or to cover
1 1/2 pounds small organic carrots, scrubbed
Freshly ground black pepper
*
Astuce: Brown Roux
To get the special flavor that French stews have, use lightly toasted flour
for thickening. Place 1 cup of flour in a shallow baking dish, place in a
375-degree F oven, and cook, stirring every 10 minutes to ensure that all
the flour toasts evenly and to break up the chunks that form. The flour is
ready when it’s a light honey color. Remove from the oven, let cool, and
store in an airtight container as you would any flour. The flour will darken
threefold when you add butter or oil to it to make a roux. Since toasting
reduces the thickening ability of the gluten, increase the amount by about
25 percent in recipes that call for using flour to thicken a liquid.”
1. Tie up the bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and peppercorns in
a piece of cheesecloth and set aside. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or heavy
nonreactive casserole over medium-high heat. Add the beef and bacon, without
crowding (add the beef in batches, if necessary), and brown the beef on all
sides, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the beef and bacon and set aside.
2. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from the pot, add
the onions, and cook, stirring, until soft but not browned, about 5 minutes.
Mix in the flour and cook for another minute, stirring. Replace the meat,
add the brandy, and cook for a minute or so to burn off the alcohol. Add the
wine, salt, and the herb bundle. Add enough of the cold water to barely
cover the meat, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1 1/4 hours.
3. Add the carrots and cook until tender, another 25 to 35
minutes, depending on their age and size.
4. Remove the stew from the heat, and remove and discard the
herb packet. Taste for salt and pepper and add as needed. Pour the stew into
a serving dish and serve.
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