“Onion Soup” Omelets
Sara Moulton Cooks at Home
by Sara Moulton, 2002, Broadway Books, a division of Random House
“Two years ago on ‘Cooking Live’
we devoted a week of shows to the culinary challenges faced by newlyweds. We
chose a representative couple and planned on setting them up with all the
right equipment and a few basic recipes and launching them into their brave
new life together. As usual, however, the learning went both ways. Britta
Larsen, the bride-to-be, turned me on to a great recipe from her mother.
The concept was a winner. Instead of pouring all the delicious components of
classic onion soup – slow-cooked onions, Gruyère cheese, and croutons – into
a broth, you tuck them into an egg casing. What could be better? Served with
a vegetable on the side and a salad, this omelet is hearty enough to be
dinner. Alone, it is perfect for a weekend brunch or lunch. The onions can
be cooked ahead and kept in the fridge. And if you don’t feel like making
homemade croutons, go ahead and toss in your favorite store-bought brand.
By the way, this is where your nonstick pan comes in handy. A good nonstick
pan is essential not only for omelets but also for potato pancakes, fish
fillets, crepes, and all those other dishes that break your heart when they
stick to the pan.”
Makes six
3-egg omelets
For the onion filling:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 to 5 medium onions, about 2 pounds, halved crosswise and
very thinly sliced
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 1/2 cups chicken stock, preferably
homemade brown
1/4 cup red wine
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
For the croutons:
3 slices 1/3-inch-thick country bread, crusts removed
1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
For the individual omelets:
3 large eggs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
A heaping 1/4 cup grated Gruyère cheese
To prepare the filling, melt the butter in a large heavy
skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and thyme and reduce the heat
to medium-low. Cover and cook, stirring often, until the onions are very
soft, about 20 minutes. Uncover and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook,
stirring often, until the onions are light brown, about 20 minutes. Add the
stock and wine. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer until the mixture is
thick and pulpy, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the mustard and taste and season
with additional salt and pepper if desired. You should have about 1 1/2 cups
filling.
For the croutons, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F and cut the bread into
1/3-inch dice. Toss the cubes with the olive oil until well coated and place
on a baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool.
For each omelet, break the eggs into a small bowl and add 2 teaspoons water
and a pinch of salt and pepper. Beat with a fork until the whites and yolks
are well blended. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a small omelet pan or nonstick
skillet over high heat until foaming and just starting to brown. Have a
warmed plate ready to receive the omelet. Add the eggs and stir quickly with
the flat part of a fork until they begin to thicken, about 10 seconds. Push
the egg that begins to set on the sides into the center of the pan and tilt
the pan to pour the uncooked egg to the sides. Cook until the omelet is
slightly firm, 15 to 20 seconds longer.
Stop stirring and let the omelet brown slightly on the bottom. Sprinkle a
heaping 1/4 cup cheese over the surface. Spread about 1/4 cup of the onion
mixture on the cheese and add 1/4 cup croutons. Fold the sides of the omelet
over the filling and tilt the pan to half roll, half slide it onto the
plate, seam side down. Serve at once.
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