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Surprise!
Garlic,...
Sergio Pitamitz
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Garlic, Ischia Ponte, Ischia, Bay of Naples, Campania, Italy
Photographic Print
Bibikow, Walter
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Garlic, Fresh and Roasted
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Treloar, Debi
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La Belle Cuisine
Roasted Garlic Purée
 
Kitchen Sessions with
Charlie Trotter
by Charlie Trotter, 1999, Ten Speed Press
“Always make extra of this. Once you make it,
you will find numerous uses
for it.”
Yield:
about 3/4 cup
4 garlic bulbs, tops cut off
3 cups milk
1/2 cup olive oil
Method – Simmer the garlic and milk in a small saucepan for
10 minutes. Drain and discard the milk. Place the garlic bulbs
upright in a
small oven-proof pan and add the olive oil.
Cover with a tight-fitting lid or
aluminum
foil and bake at
350 degrees [F] for 1 1/2 hours, or until the
garlic bulbs
are soft.
Cool the garlic in the oil and then squeeze the soft garlic
out of the skins. Purée the garlic and the oil until smooth.
And a slightly simpler version for one head of garlic...
The White Dog Cafe Cookbook:
Recipes and Tales of Adventure from
Philadelphia's Revolutionary Restaurant
by
Judy Wicks and Kevin von Klause,
1997, Running Press
 
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Cut the
top off of the head of garlic, exposing the cloves. Rub the head with a
little olive oil and wrap in foil.
Roast in the oven until the cloves are completely soft, about 30 minutes.
When cool, squeeze the softened garlic pulp from its skin; it will have a
paste-like consistency.
Garlic (Aglio)
Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking
by Marcella Hazan, 1992, Alfred A. Knopf
“To equate Italian food with garlic is not quite correct, but
it isn’t totally wrong, either. It may strain belief, but there are some
Italians who shun
garlic, and many dishes at home and in restaurants are
prepared without it.
Nevertheless, if there were no longer any garlic, the
cuisine would be hard
to recognize. What would roast chicken be like without
garlic, or anything done with clams, or grilled mushrooms, or pesto, or an
uncountable number of stews and fricassees and pasta sauces?
When preparing them for Italian cooking, garlic cloves are
always peeled. Once peeled, they may be used whole, mashed, sliced thin, or
chopped fine, depending on how manifest one wants their presence to be. The
gentlest aroma is that of the whole clove, the most unbuttoned scent is that
exuded
by the chopped. The least acceptable method of preparing garlic is
squeez-
ing it through a press. The sodden pulp it produces is acrid in flavor
and
cannot even be sautéed properly.
It is possible, and often desirable, for the fragrance to be barely
perceptible,
a result one can achieve by sautéing the garlic so briefly that
it does not become colored, and then letting it simmer in the juices of
other ingredients as, for example, when thin slices of it are cooked in a
tomato sauce. On
occasion, a more emphatic garlic accent may be appropriate, but never, in
good Italian cooking, should it be allowed to become harshly pungent or
bitter. When sautéing garlic, never take your eyes off it, never allow it to
become colored a dark brown because that is when the offensive smell
and
taste develop. In a few circumstances, when the balance of flavors in
a dish
demand and support a particularly intense garlic flavor, garlic cloves may
be cooked until they are the light brown color of walnut shells. For
most
cooking, however, the deepest color you should ever allow garlic
to become
is pale gold.
Choosing and storing: Garlic is available all through
the year, but it is
best when just picked, in the spring. When young and
fresh, the cloves
are tender and moist, and the skin is soft and clear
white. The flavor is
so sweet that
one can be careless about quantity. As it
ages, and unfor- tunately, outside of the growing areas, older garlic is what
one will find,
it dries, losing sweetness and acquiring sharpness, its skin
becoming flaky
and brittle, its flesh wrinkled and yellow, like the color of
old ivory. It is
still good to cook with, but you must use it sparingly and
cook it to an
even paler color than you would the fresh. I have seen chefs
split the
clove to remove any part of it that may
have turned green. I don’t
find
this necessary, but I do discard the green shoot when it sprouts
outside
the clove.
Choose a head of garlic by weight and size. The heavier it feels in the
hand, the fresher it’s likely to be, and large heads have bigger cloves that
take longer to dry out. Use only whole garlic, do not be tempted by pre-
pared
chopped garlic, or garlic-flavored oils, or powdered garlic. All such
products are too harsh for Italian cooking.
Keep garlic in its skin until you are ready to use it. Do not chop it long
before you need it. Store garlic out of the refrigerator in a crock with a
lid fitting loosely enough so air can flow through. There are perforated
garlic crocks made that do the job quite well. Braids of garlic can look
quite beautiful hanging in a kitchen, but the heads dry out fairly quickly
and
all you will have left at some point are empty husks."
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