Stairway in Provence
J. Duvall
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La Belle Cuisine - More Soup Recipes

Fine Cuisine with Art Infusion

"To cook is to create. And to create well...
is an act of integrity, and faith."

La Bourride de Baudroie
Restaurant Lou Marquès

"Aïoli intoxicates gently, fills the body with warmth, and the soul
with enthusiasm. In its essence it concentrates the strength, the
gaiety of Provence: sunshine."
~ Frederic Mistral

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Courtyard in Provence
J. Duvall
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A Strand of Garlic
Jardine
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La Bourride de Baudroie
Restaurant Lou Marquès
(Restaurant Lou Marquès’
Monkfish Soup with Garlic Cream)


Bistro Cooking
by Patricia Wells, 1989, Workman Publishing Company, Inc.

“Monkfish – known as ‘lotte’, or ‘baudroie’ in Provence – is a popular and
plentiful Mediterranean fish, and one that stands up well to flavorful soups
such as this. With the addition of the garlic-rich mayonnaise known as aïoli,
the soup is a meal all on nits own, a dish I first sampled on the terrace of Lou
Marquès, the restaurant of the Hôtel Jules César in Arles.
The soup is best made with homemade fish stock, but if you don’t have it on
hand, substitute water [or try bottled clam juice] for the soup liquid. With
the soup, sample either a chilled white from Provence, such as a Cassis, or a
Tavel or Bandol rosé. When serving this dish, I like to prepare the aïoli earlier
in the day, so there is little last minute work.”

1 pound (500 g) baking potatoes, such as russets,
peeled and very thinly sliced
1 leek (white part only), trimmed, well rinsed, and cut into rounds
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into rounds
1 garlic clove, finely minced
Grated zest of 2 oranges
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise
3 imported bay leaves
2 quarts (2 l) fish stock or water [or bottled clam juice]
1 cup (25 cl) dry white wine, such as Cassis
2 pounds (1 kg) very fresh monkfish, membrane removed
and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch (1.5 cm) slices
1 recipe Aïoli (recipe follows)
1 large egg yolk
1/4 cup (6 cl) crème fraîche or heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 to 12 slices country bread, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to warm (about 210 degrees F; 100 degrees C). Place
a large soup tureen and 4 to 6 shallow soup bowls in the oven to warm.
2. In a large, heavy-bottomed nonreactive saucepan, combine the potatoes, leek, carrot, garlic, orange zest, fennel, bay leaves, stock, and wine.
Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-
low and simmer until the vegetables are just tender, 12 to 15 minutes.
Add the monkfish and cook, skimming frequently, until the fish is
opaque throughout, about 5 minutes. Discard the bay leaves.
3. Meanwhile, in a medium-size bowl, combine 3/4 cup (18 cl) of the aïoli with the egg yolk and crème fraîche; whisk to blend. Gradually stir 1/2
cup (12.5 cl) of the hot soup broth into the aïoli mixture. Over low heat,
add the aïoli mixture to the soup. Cook, whisking to thicken slightly, for
1 or 2 minutes; do not let the soup boil. Season to taste with the salt
and pepper.
4. Toast the bread.
5. To serve, ladle the soup into warmed bowls, making sure everyone gets some of the fish and an assortment of vegetables. Pass the remaining aïoli
and toasted bread separately.
Yield: 6 servings

Aïoli (Garlic Mayonnaise)

“This is an authentic Provençal aïoli, which needs to be made from fresh, juice garlic cloves. If you do not have a large mortar and pestle, you can crush the
garlic and salt together to a paste with the flat side of a knife and make the aïoli
with a whisk or electric hand mixer. Don’t use a food processor: The aïoli will
be too much like glue.”

6 large fresh garlic cloves
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large egg yolks*, at room temperature
1 cup (25 cl) extra-virgin olive oil

1. Peel and cut the garlic in half, then remove the green, sprout-like “germ”
that runs lengthwise through the center of the garlic.
2. Pour boiling water into a large mortar to warm it; discard the water and
dry the mortar. Place the garlic and salt in the mortar and mash together
evenly with a pestle to form a paste.
3. Add 1 egg yolk. Stir, pressing slowly and evenly with the pestle, always
in the same direction, to thoroughly blend the garlic and yolk. Add the
second yolk and repeat until well blended.
4. Very slowly work in the oil, drop by drop, until the mixture thickens. Gradually, whisk in the remaining oil in a slow, thin stream until the
sauce is thickened to a mayonnaise consistency.
Yield: About 1 cup (25 cl)

Featured Archive Recipes:
Soups from "Patricia Wells at Home in Provence"
 

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